Hardblock?

[James L Miller]

Do you use a half fill or a full fill? Do you put a gasket and head on after filling that side of the block so the bores are distorted in the same way as when running? I was thinking of buying the full fill Hard-Blok and then using half in my 273 Mopar block (and 1/2 of that on each side). I've never used this before, but the cylinder walls on the 273 blocks are under .200" thick, some down around .130" with a standard bore. The cylinder walls tend to be thinner in the middle and the front and rear areas between the cylinders.

[GTX JOHN]

.130 at Std. Bore is rather thin.

Might be worth checking a few more blocks.

If that is on thrust side I personally would not like to us that block.

Suggest filling it to within a inch or 1 1/2 to top of water passage if
I did use it.

[randy wilson]

Do what you want, but I wouldn't hard block anything. Did a 0.060 over 283, and a 0.030 327, and if you could watch the shaking of the stones when rehoning after teardown, versus ones being honed without any hardblock, you'd know what I mean. They never, ever, stayed round. And everything was done with two torqueplates, mains, and pump installed. I have never used it since.

[ss3011]

If you had the choice , wouldn't it be better to start with a good block , like a Bowtie or Dart ? A filled block has other problems like bores going out of round , or cooling problems when racing . What does a filled block weigh , compared to a Bowtie block . Plus after you where it out for bore size , it can be sold to someone that can use a bigger bore size . In the long run it might not really cost more to run a good block .

[James L Miller]

Originally Posted by GTX JOHN

.130 at Std. Bore is rather thin.

Might be worth checking a few more blocks.

If that is on thrust side I personally would not like to us that block.

Suggest filling it to within a inch or 1 1/2 to top of water passage if
I did use it.

John, I've attached the sonic check of the three 273 blocks I had sonic checked in January. The "orange" block checked worse than the "greasy" and "rusty" blocks. None of them were all they great. I think I will build a 2bbl engine with one of them, save the best for a 4bbl engine after I get my feet wet (hopefully not literally) with the 2bbl engine on building Stocker engines.

[richie 2]

Im trying to build a "seat time" unit togeather. bowtie or dart is not in the budget. using pistons from the 80's w/low runs. what did everyone do before filler came along? thankyou everyone for your input, keep them coming...

[Mike Pearson]

Originally Posted by richie 2

Im trying to build a "seat time" unit togeather. bowtie or dart is not in the budget. using pistons from the 80's w/low runs. what dis everyone do befor filler came along? thankyou everyone for your input, keep them coming...

Years ago a stocker was only allowed .035 over. The stock blocks were pretty good at that size. Now with the more overbore the need for block fill or the better aftermarket blocks is needed. I personally have not had good luck filling the stock blocks and running at .060 . several have cracked the cylinders. You will be much better off to save a few bucks and get the aftermarket block. They are much stronger in the cylinder walls and deck. The bores will stay round and straight. The lifter bores are also very accurate on the aftermarket blocks. Believe me it will be money well spent. I wont even fool around with stock blocks any more and its real hard to find the older 4 bolt main blocks that are the best.

[MR DERBY CITY]

Originally Posted by Mike Pearson

Years ago a stocker was only allowed .035 over. The stock blocks were pretty good at that size. Now with the more overbore the need for block fill or the better aftermarket blocks is needed. I personally have not had good luck filling the stock blocks and running at .060 . several have cracked the cylinders. You will be much better off to save a few bucks and get the aftermarket block. They are much stronger in the cylinder walls and deck. The bores will stay round and straight. The lifter bores are also very accurate on the aftermarket blocks. Believe me it will be money well spent. I wont even fool around with stock blocks any more and its real hard to find the older 4 bolt main blocks that are the best.

Very good advice Mike....there is no saving $$ in drag racing ...purchase a bow tie block, it will last you forever.....do it right the first time, you will be glad you did.....

[Hacksaw]

Didn't know there is a bow tie block that matches a 273 Mopar.! Oh! The curse of trying to make 50 something old run with modern stuff.

[65signet]

Originally Posted by James L Miller

John, I've attached the sonic check of the three 273 blocks I had sonic checked in January. The "orange" block checked worse than the "greasy" and "rusty" blocks. None of them were all they great. I think I will build a 2bbl engine with one of them, save the best for a 4bbl engine after I get my feet wet (hopefully not literally) with the 2bbl engine on building Stocker engines.

It seems that all the 273 blocks are a little thin, the 67-68 i have found are the worst, i had to fill my block.