Hardblock?

[richie 2]

Im trying to build a "seat time" unit togeather. bowtie or dart is not in the budget. using pistons from the 80's w/low runs. what did everyone do before filler came along? thankyou everyone for your input, keep them coming...

[Mike Pearson]

Originally Posted by richie 2

Im trying to build a "seat time" unit togeather. bowtie or dart is not in the budget. using pistons from the 80's w/low runs. what dis everyone do befor filler came along? thankyou everyone for your input, keep them coming...

Years ago a stocker was only allowed .035 over. The stock blocks were pretty good at that size. Now with the more overbore the need for block fill or the better aftermarket blocks is needed. I personally have not had good luck filling the stock blocks and running at .060 . several have cracked the cylinders. You will be much better off to save a few bucks and get the aftermarket block. They are much stronger in the cylinder walls and deck. The bores will stay round and straight. The lifter bores are also very accurate on the aftermarket blocks. Believe me it will be money well spent. I wont even fool around with stock blocks any more and its real hard to find the older 4 bolt main blocks that are the best.

[MR DERBY CITY]

Originally Posted by Mike Pearson

Years ago a stocker was only allowed .035 over. The stock blocks were pretty good at that size. Now with the more overbore the need for block fill or the better aftermarket blocks is needed. I personally have not had good luck filling the stock blocks and running at .060 . several have cracked the cylinders. You will be much better off to save a few bucks and get the aftermarket block. They are much stronger in the cylinder walls and deck. The bores will stay round and straight. The lifter bores are also very accurate on the aftermarket blocks. Believe me it will be money well spent. I wont even fool around with stock blocks any more and its real hard to find the older 4 bolt main blocks that are the best.

Very good advice Mike....there is no saving $$ in drag racing ...purchase a bow tie block, it will last you forever.....do it right the first time, you will be glad you did.....

[Hacksaw]

Didn't know there is a bow tie block that matches a 273 Mopar.! Oh! The curse of trying to make 50 something old run with modern stuff.

[David Lee]

I guess the real cure without buying a 3K block and getting thick walls, would be to sleeve a 318 to 273 bore size

[Tony Goodman]

I believe a Dart SHP block is less than $2000. There is also the money you will spend on the stock block you will not have to spend on the after market block. Filling, cleaning, checking... So that cost can be deducted off the price of an after market block also.

[Monte Howard]

Save yourself the aggravation, I hard blocked my 010 block and went .060. With new cp pistons. After the 1st pass the car slowed down. Made about 20 more runs on it. Tore it apart this winter and the cylinders where .008 out of round. And my new pistons skirts where scuffed really bad. Do yourself a favor and just get a SHP block and be done with it.

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by Tony Goodman

I believe a Dart SHP block is less than $2000. There is also the money you will spend on the stock block you will not have to spend on the after market block. Filling, cleaning, checking... So that cost can be deducted off the price of an after market block also.

You can buy an SHP block all machined and shipped for that kind of money.

Things that should be addressed when having one of those blocks machined.

– Main housing bores chamfered
– Freeze plug holes and rear cam hole are chamfered
– Line honed to at least the middle of the spec or high side if needed
– Decked to your demension
– Bore to your spec
– Plate honed using the same gasket and hardware that will be used in the end build
– Lifter bores checked and honed to the lifters that will be used in the end build
– Top of lifter bores chamfered
– Bottom of the cylinders chamfered
– Tap oil galley holes deeper
– Chamfer Distributor hole for O rings.

[James L Miller]

Originally Posted by David Lee

I guess the real cure without buying a 3K block and getting thick walls, would be to sleeve a 318 to 273 bore size

My engine builder wanted to get a standard bore 340 block and sleeve it down to the 273 size. If I wanted to build a killer 273, then I'd do that but I want to keep the costs down. It quickly looked like a $20k engine if he was going to build it. I don't think an R3 block would be that much better since it would still need to be sleeved down.

It looks like I should have started a separate thread on the 273. I thought the hardblock info would carry over between the brands, but it looks like things got corn-fused.

[David Lee]

Originally Posted by James L Miller

My engine builder wanted to get a standard bore 340 block and sleeve it down to the 273 size. If I wanted to build a killer 273, then I'd do that but I want to keep the costs down. It quickly looked like a $20k engine if he was going to build it. I don't think an R3 block would be that much better since it would still need to be sleeved down.

It looks like I should have started a separate thread on the 273. I thought the hardblock info would carry over between the brands, but it looks like things got corn-fused.

I agree with you 100%.