SBC block filling ?

[Mark Yacavone]

I've been reminded that the SBC w/p holes are towards the center of the block.
Even if your fill at an angle ,it'll still leave some water there.
Actually, I was picturing my 2300 4 cyl. when I made that comment...No drain plug required.

[Reed Granrt]

Originally Posted by Dwight Southerland

Muriatic acid. Wash well and neutralize after.

Nope, Muriatic acid will attack the base metal (cast iron). The longer it is in contact with the cast iron, the more it will remove
reed

[Dwight Southerland]

Originally Posted by Reed Granrt

Nope, Muriatic acid will attack the base metal (cast iron). The longer it is in contact with the cast iron, the more it will remove
reed

And the problem is . . . ? Been doing it for years with no problems. You can treat the block, rinse it out and neuetralize it with a couple of baths of strong baking soda solution in thirty minutes and be done. If you are using a concrete-based filler, you can pour it immediately. I have used Por-Rok and Rockite with great success. Phosphoric acid, Rust-Away and similar neutralizers take too long, will not clean nooks and cranies, and require scrubbing the scale off the parent metal, which is impossible to do in the water jackets of a block. If you don't get the scale out, there is a protective boundary layer that prevents the filler from adhering to the block and concrete-based fillers will eventually erode out.

We tried muriatic to "enhance" some cylinder head dimensions once, but it took twenty gallons, seven days and constant applied heat to remove .100". Somehow, that rate of "attack" on the base metal does not concern me.

[Reed Granrt]

Originally Posted by Dwight Southerland

And the problem is . . . ? Been doing it for years with no problems. You can treat the block, rinse it out and neuetralize it with a couple of baths of strong baking soda solution in thirty minutes and be done. If you are using a concrete-based filler, you can pour it immediately. I have used Por-Rok and Rockite with great success. Phosphoric acid, Rust-Away and similar neutralizers take too long, will not clean nooks and cranies, and require scrubbing the scale off the parent metal, which is impossible to do in the water jackets of a block. If you don't get the scale out, there is a protective boundary layer that prevents the filler from adhering to the block and concrete-based fillers will eventually erode out.

We tried muriatic to "enhance" some cylinder head dimensions once, but it took twenty gallons, seven days and constant applied heat to remove .100". Somehow, that rate of "attack" on the base metal does not concern me.

Dwight
It is not a problem for me. If you want to "enhance" it even more , use hydrochloric. You can do that in a matter of minutes. Oh, have you eaten into a gas pocket around the cylinder yet. And yes, using muriactic for years is what I have done, but like many other things, I have learned better tech does exist (for me). Heck you can even soak it in Pepsi, Molasses, sorghum or what ever your medicine. All will work and safer. Your decision.
reed

[kansas stocker]

If I remember my chemistry correctly ( it's been 40+ years), muratic acid is diluted hydrocloric acid. Releases cloride so you want to do this with lots of ventilation.
Pete

[Pat Cook]

Muratic acid from Home Depot works really nice.

[Dwight Southerland]

Originally Posted by kansas stocker

If I remember my chemistry correctly ( it's been 40+ years), muratic acid is diluted hydrocloric acid. Releases cloride so you want to do this with lots of ventilation.
Pete

Yes, muriatic is low percentage hydrocloric solution. LOTS of ventilation. The common stuff that is sold for cleaning swimming pools can be diluted 2:1 with water and it still works very good cleaning the water passages in a block.

[randy wilson]

I see no advantage to filling any block. When we used to do it on stock blocks, not one rebuild were the cylinders round. Quit filling, and everything stayed straight. The stones just chattered after a teardoiwn using hardblok.

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by randy wilson

I see no advantage to filling any block. When we used to do it on stock blocks, not one rebuild were the cylinders round. Quit filling, and everything stayed straight. The stones just chattered after a teardoiwn using hardblok.

X2 If your having to fill a block your using the wrong block!!!!!

[Reed Granrt]

Originally Posted by randy wilson

I see no advantage to filling any block. When we used to do it on stock blocks, not one rebuild were the cylinders round. Quit filling, and everything stayed straight. The stones just chattered after a teardoiwn using hardblok.

Randy
I would like to address this with my opinions and observation. Filling a block is a lot like purchasing a new block and putting it into service and is a lot like pouring new concrete. Lets address each one individually. If you purchase a new block, lets say a Dart, it will take a couple of tear downs and re-hones to get the bores to stabilize as the block has to go thru a "settling & curing" time. The aspect of pouring the block goes thru much of the same process as concrete. It will take that pour a couple of tear downs and re hones to stabilize also. Where I have seen definite advantages is where the block cylinders walls are thin and flex in the every firing pulse. I feel the poured block is a definite advantage but I also feel is does have a disadvantage. And that is the poured section runs at a different temp than that section with water going thru it, therefore they are 2 different dimensions. I have found that there is a definite small taper from top to bottom as a result of that temp difference. Most good machinist and racers know how to minimize that problem. Is the filler material a temp stabilizer? Not in my thought process. On any given run, the temperature in the block will begin to climb and will continue to grow thru the run. The filler material will continue to increase in temperature but the water cooled section will hit a maximum and then water will begin to cool it or stabilize it. This is not a perfect world, but with stock blocks, sometimes it is a necessity. There is another plus of a poured block over a stock block and without any doubt, the filler adds rigidity to the block. No doubt, in my mind, it strengthens the bottom end in the crank area. Is there a definite advantage to a poured block. I feel you have to look at each situation. A 9 to 1 motor doesnt need it as much as a 12 to 1 motor does and it goes on and on. But I feel if you do indeed pour a block, then by all means try to cure it after the pour for it to stabilize and shrink as much as possible before you machine it.
And I most certainly agree with Carl, that I never like a poured block over most after market blocks but as we all know, some manufactures do not have the advantage of an approved after market block and are forced to work with what they have and improve it any way that they can.
Hey just my thoughts.
reed