SBC block filling ?

[Dwight Southerland]

Originally Posted by Reed Granrt

I am very sure that I did not say this, but You may want to consider rust stripping the block inside. If you pour the block with the rust layer that is there, you will set up 2 problems 1: the rust acts as a blockage to heat transfer out of the cylinders 2: You will have poor adhesion by the block filler. Make sure you de-acid with a acid that does not attack the base met. Only use acid that attacks the rust oxide. If you do not find out what that is, PM me and I can tell you (but I didn't tell you)
reed

Muriatic acid. Wash well and neutralize after.

[Mark Yacavone]

I've been reminded that the SBC w/p holes are towards the center of the block.
Even if your fill at an angle ,it'll still leave some water there.
Actually, I was picturing my 2300 4 cyl. when I made that comment...No drain plug required.

[Reed Granrt]

Originally Posted by Dwight Southerland

Muriatic acid. Wash well and neutralize after.

Nope, Muriatic acid will attack the base metal (cast iron). The longer it is in contact with the cast iron, the more it will remove
reed

[Dwight Southerland]

Originally Posted by Reed Granrt

Nope, Muriatic acid will attack the base metal (cast iron). The longer it is in contact with the cast iron, the more it will remove
reed

And the problem is . . . ? Been doing it for years with no problems. You can treat the block, rinse it out and neuetralize it with a couple of baths of strong baking soda solution in thirty minutes and be done. If you are using a concrete-based filler, you can pour it immediately. I have used Por-Rok and Rockite with great success. Phosphoric acid, Rust-Away and similar neutralizers take too long, will not clean nooks and cranies, and require scrubbing the scale off the parent metal, which is impossible to do in the water jackets of a block. If you don't get the scale out, there is a protective boundary layer that prevents the filler from adhering to the block and concrete-based fillers will eventually erode out.

We tried muriatic to "enhance" some cylinder head dimensions once, but it took twenty gallons, seven days and constant applied heat to remove .100". Somehow, that rate of "attack" on the base metal does not concern me.

[Reed Granrt]

Originally Posted by Dwight Southerland

And the problem is . . . ? Been doing it for years with no problems. You can treat the block, rinse it out and neuetralize it with a couple of baths of strong baking soda solution in thirty minutes and be done. If you are using a concrete-based filler, you can pour it immediately. I have used Por-Rok and Rockite with great success. Phosphoric acid, Rust-Away and similar neutralizers take too long, will not clean nooks and cranies, and require scrubbing the scale off the parent metal, which is impossible to do in the water jackets of a block. If you don't get the scale out, there is a protective boundary layer that prevents the filler from adhering to the block and concrete-based fillers will eventually erode out.

We tried muriatic to "enhance" some cylinder head dimensions once, but it took twenty gallons, seven days and constant applied heat to remove .100". Somehow, that rate of "attack" on the base metal does not concern me.

Dwight
It is not a problem for me. If you want to "enhance" it even more , use hydrochloric. You can do that in a matter of minutes. Oh, have you eaten into a gas pocket around the cylinder yet. And yes, using muriactic for years is what I have done, but like many other things, I have learned better tech does exist (for me). Heck you can even soak it in Pepsi, Molasses, sorghum or what ever your medicine. All will work and safer. Your decision.
reed

[kansas stocker]

If I remember my chemistry correctly ( it's been 40+ years), muratic acid is diluted hydrocloric acid. Releases cloride so you want to do this with lots of ventilation.
Pete

[Pat Cook]

Muratic acid from Home Depot works really nice.

[Dwight Southerland]

Originally Posted by kansas stocker

If I remember my chemistry correctly ( it's been 40+ years), muratic acid is diluted hydrocloric acid. Releases cloride so you want to do this with lots of ventilation.
Pete

Yes, muriatic is low percentage hydrocloric solution. LOTS of ventilation. The common stuff that is sold for cleaning swimming pools can be diluted 2:1 with water and it still works very good cleaning the water passages in a block.

[randy wilson]

I see no advantage to filling any block. When we used to do it on stock blocks, not one rebuild were the cylinders round. Quit filling, and everything stayed straight. The stones just chattered after a teardoiwn using hardblok.

[dwydendorf]

When you drill into the side of the block for the water drain be sure to locate it away from the center of the cylinder and as close to the intersection of two cylinders as possible. Also be sure not to locate it under any head bolts. This will give you more room to use a pipe tap to thread your drain. If necessary you can cut off a tap with an abrasive cut off wheel and grind a new lead on the tap.