I want to go Stocker Racing

[LIGOOMBA]

What does flogged mean ????
This seems alot more involved and intimidating by the post ! LOL !
Plenty of IHRA tracks down here.I guess I'm gonna have to get and IHRA rule book !
I thought about the idea of the 4 th generation Camaro cause they are a dime a dozen ! I seen a V8 car the other day in someone's driveway.$1000 .150k miles,V8,original owner,NO T tops.Mint interior,back seat did not look like it was sat in,console and dash were perfect as wella as carpet,paint was a little faded and it had a few really small parking lot dings . I would end up painting any car I but anyway being I was in the body business .I figured get a car I can afford right now and start working on it till my race ar sell.
Will that car work in IHRA ?

[Robert Swartz]

Originally Posted by LIGOOMBA

What does flogged mean ????
This seems alot more involved and intimidating by the post ! LOL !
Plenty of IHRA tracks down here.I guess I'm gonna have to get and IHRA rule book !
I thought about the idea of the 4 th generation Camaro cause they are a dime a dozen ! I seen a V8 car the other day in someone's driveway.$1000 .150k miles,V8,original owner,NO T tops.Mint interior,back seat did not look like it was sat in,console and dash were perfect as wella as carpet,paint was a little faded and it had a few really small parking lot dings . I would end up painting any car I but anyway being I was in the body business .I figured get a car I can afford right now and start working on it till my race ar sell.
Will that car work in IHRA ?

Flogged-means simply, working on the car as a whole. You have to differentiate Stock from Bracket racing. In stock, you have to approach it from the angle that, there's only so much available from the engine and transmission. You have to look at the total package. Where can you find time in the car after you've built a legal engine and transmission and tuned it. You have to learn what you can do with the suspension, weight reduction or how to remove and replace weight where you need it.

Stock takes a little more than just grabbing the Jegs/Summit catalogue or running to the local speed shop (if you're still lucky enough to have such a thing, any longer) to make a car go fast. I wouldn't say a car can't be built with other peoples castoffs and swap meet junk, you'd really need to know what you're doing.

To agree with Alan. Be willing to listen. For the most part, when I've approached guys at the track, they're more than willing to take a few minutes and explain what they've done. Most will tell you what THEY think you will need to do.

On a personal note. If you're in a locale that has a good number of IHRA tracks within a reasonable distance. I would certainly look at the Pure Stock option. I think, it would be a good way to get your feet wet, maybe not get your feelings hurt as quickly. Plus, you might just run into some people running a similiar combo, be able to piggy back some information. Make a new friend or two along the way. Just my opinion.

[Harry 6674]

I really haven't figured out why pure stock would be so much cheaper? Maybe you take a totally original car to a race and qualify, I'm not sure, but if you want to have killer car the costs would go up. If you wanted to build a top of the class car I doubt there would be a 3K$ difference, if you can do most of the work yourself. I've never seen the pure stock rules so as usual I'm probably all wet.

[Alan Roehrich]

Between here and racing junk, I quickly found 8 nice Chevy cars for under $30K, most are 0.8 under or faster and can go 1.0 under with a little work and money.

If you cannot bend and weld in your own cage (and subframe connectors if needed) build your own engine, transmission and rear end, and do most of the other work, you cannot build for that price. Be aware that there is a considerable difference between building a bracket engine and transmission and building a class engine and transmission. Sure, the fundamentals are the same. But the attention to detail, and the need to know what to buy and who to buy it from are far different.

These cars are already set up by good racers, most of the work is already done. A couple that are under $25K had the potential to pick up two tenths for under $5K. A couple of them could change combinations and move into several other classes.

Originally Posted by Harry 6674

I really haven't figured out why pure stock would be so much cheaper? Maybe you take a totally original car to a race and qualify, I'm not sure, but if you want to have killer car the costs would go up. If you wanted to build a top of the class car I doubt there would be a 3K$ difference, if you can do most of the work yourself. I've never seen the pure stock rules so as usual I'm probably all wet.

Our C5 runs almost 1 under in Pure Stock in good air and we've added gears, headers, light wheels, drag radials, a converter, a good tune, etc. The difference comes in $$$ comes in a couple areas:

1. We have OEM cylinder heads. Never touched. To be competitive in Stock you have to run $3500+ Layer heads.
2. Factory computer. How much for a complete Accel or similar system? $2500+?
3. Our converter is an off-the shelf "street" converter (Yank SS4000) that we actually bought used for $500. Also, transmission is completely stock. What does a race converter and metric transmission cost? $5000?
4. Also, no roll bar needed, expensive lifters, valve springs that need replaced all the time, radial slicks that are junk after how many runs, ...

Just in that list above I've come up with about $15,000 in savings and we still are capable of running a second under in good conditions. Yes, we have a Corvette which is more expensive than say an F-body but that's what we had, what we wanted to build, and a little different than other cars in our class.

Scott

Originally Posted by LIGOOMBA

What does flogged mean ????
This seems alot more involved and intimidating by the post ! LOL !
Plenty of IHRA tracks down here.I guess I'm gonna have to get and IHRA rule book !
I thought about the idea of the 4 th generation Camaro cause they are a dime a dozen ! I seen a V8 car the other day in someone's driveway.$1000 .150k miles,V8,original owner,NO T tops.Mint interior,back seat did not look like it was sat in,console and dash were perfect as wella as carpet,paint was a little faded and it had a few really small parking lot dings . I would end up painting any car I but anyway being I was in the body business .I figured get a car I can afford right now and start working on it till my race ar sell.
Will that car work in IHRA ?

PERFECT car and great price! What year is it? I'd snatch that up if it was clean. Yes, that car will work in Pure Stock. Depending on the class you would like to run and weight you add I believe that's B-D/PS. If you run B (might not be able to get it light enough) it's a 12.45 index in the 1/4 and 8.10 in the 1/8. You can look up the C and D indexes on ihra.com. The nice thing about 4th generation cars are CHEAP aftermarket parts. Nice 1.75" headers for $500, Weld wheels, find a good used converter, put a 4.10 gear in, drag radial, etc. You could get that car to run the index for about $3000.

Come on into B/PS ... the water is fine! We were testing last night and went 11.74 @ 113 with a 1.53 60' at 1900' DA and 150+ lbs. overweight.

[Harry 6674]

Originally Posted by Tar Heel

Our C5 runs almost 1 under in Pure Stock in good air and we've added gears, headers, light wheels, drag radials, a converter, a good tune, etc. The difference comes in $$$ comes in a couple areas:

1. We have OEM cylinder heads. Never touched. To be competitive in Stock you have to run $3500+ Layer heads.
2. Factory computer. How much for a complete Accel or similar system? $2500+?
3. Our converter is an off-the shelf "street" converter (Yank SS4000) that we actually bought used for $500. Also, transmission is completely stock. What does a race converter and metric transmission cost? $5000?
4. Also, no roll bar needed, expensive lifters, valve springs that need replaced all the time, radial slicks that are junk after how many runs, ...

Just in that list above I've come up with about $15,000 in savings and we still are capable of running a second under in good conditions. Yes, we have a Corvette which is more expensive than say an F-body but that's what we had, what we wanted to build, and a little different than other cars in our class.

Scott

So are you saying you have taken your car as far as pure stock allows? You are using all the best parts allowed and built the drivetrain as far as the pure stock rules allow?

Originally Posted by Harry 6674

So are you saying you have taken your car as far as pure stock allows? You are using all the best parts allowed and built the drivetrain as far as the pure stock rules allow?

Oh no ... by no means. We're running a $500 used street converter and stock transmission. A race converter and transmission with lightweight internals would go faster. Also, the car could take more gear. The longblock is stock other than a legal Bullet cam ... someone like Jeff Warren could pick it up significantly with better heads and shortblock tricks. A lot of weight could be removed and then relocated to the rear if necessary. There is honestly another half second in it if we got serious. But, if we put our OEM wheels and tires back on we could turn the AC on and drive this car across the country tomorrow.

[Harry 6674]

Originally Posted by Tar Heel

Oh no ... by no means. We're running a $500 used street converter and stock transmission. A race converter and transmission with lightweight internals would go faster. Also, the car could take more gear. The longblock is stock other than a legal Bullet cam ... someone like Jeff Warren could pick it up significantly with better heads and shortblock tricks. A lot of weight could be removed and then relocated to the rear if necessary. There is honestly another half second in it if we got serious. But, if we put our OEM wheels and tires back on we could turn the AC on and drive this car across the country tomorrow.

That is the point I was trying to make. Pure stock is cheaper for you because you want it that way. If you choose to try to make your car the fastest the cost would go up. It's the same in NHRA. Fast costs money.

[Dan Fahey]

Originally Posted by Harry 6674

I really haven't figured out why pure stock would be so much cheaper? Maybe you take a totally original car to a race and qualify, I'm not sure, but if you want to have killer car the costs would go up. If you wanted to build a top of the class car I doubt there would be a 3K$ difference, if you can do most of the work yourself. I've never seen the pure stock rules so as usual I'm probably all wet.

There is a huge difference.
There maybe $3k difference in some cars. Mostly lower class.
However it is the legacy costs such as fuel and racing seat belts.
Full Stocker engines can run $10-$15k.
Got to match that up with a proper trans, rear, headers, roll bar..etc, etc, etc.

There seems to ba rival of more racers running Pure Stock.
If NHRA adds it you will see a large shift.
They are less stressed and more reliable inthe long run.

Dan