I want to go Stocker Racing

[Harry 6674]

I really haven't figured out why pure stock would be so much cheaper? Maybe you take a totally original car to a race and qualify, I'm not sure, but if you want to have killer car the costs would go up. If you wanted to build a top of the class car I doubt there would be a 3K$ difference, if you can do most of the work yourself. I've never seen the pure stock rules so as usual I'm probably all wet.

[Alan Roehrich]

Between here and racing junk, I quickly found 8 nice Chevy cars for under $30K, most are 0.8 under or faster and can go 1.0 under with a little work and money.

If you cannot bend and weld in your own cage (and subframe connectors if needed) build your own engine, transmission and rear end, and do most of the other work, you cannot build for that price. Be aware that there is a considerable difference between building a bracket engine and transmission and building a class engine and transmission. Sure, the fundamentals are the same. But the attention to detail, and the need to know what to buy and who to buy it from are far different.

These cars are already set up by good racers, most of the work is already done. A couple that are under $25K had the potential to pick up two tenths for under $5K. A couple of them could change combinations and move into several other classes.

Originally Posted by Harry 6674

I really haven't figured out why pure stock would be so much cheaper? Maybe you take a totally original car to a race and qualify, I'm not sure, but if you want to have killer car the costs would go up. If you wanted to build a top of the class car I doubt there would be a 3K$ difference, if you can do most of the work yourself. I've never seen the pure stock rules so as usual I'm probably all wet.

Our C5 runs almost 1 under in Pure Stock in good air and we've added gears, headers, light wheels, drag radials, a converter, a good tune, etc. The difference comes in $$$ comes in a couple areas:

1. We have OEM cylinder heads. Never touched. To be competitive in Stock you have to run $3500+ Layer heads.
2. Factory computer. How much for a complete Accel or similar system? $2500+?
3. Our converter is an off-the shelf "street" converter (Yank SS4000) that we actually bought used for $500. Also, transmission is completely stock. What does a race converter and metric transmission cost? $5000?
4. Also, no roll bar needed, expensive lifters, valve springs that need replaced all the time, radial slicks that are junk after how many runs, ...

Just in that list above I've come up with about $15,000 in savings and we still are capable of running a second under in good conditions. Yes, we have a Corvette which is more expensive than say an F-body but that's what we had, what we wanted to build, and a little different than other cars in our class.

Scott

[Harry 6674]

Originally Posted by Tar Heel

Our C5 runs almost 1 under in Pure Stock in good air and we've added gears, headers, light wheels, drag radials, a converter, a good tune, etc. The difference comes in $$$ comes in a couple areas:

1. We have OEM cylinder heads. Never touched. To be competitive in Stock you have to run $3500+ Layer heads.
2. Factory computer. How much for a complete Accel or similar system? $2500+?
3. Our converter is an off-the shelf "street" converter (Yank SS4000) that we actually bought used for $500. Also, transmission is completely stock. What does a race converter and metric transmission cost? $5000?
4. Also, no roll bar needed, expensive lifters, valve springs that need replaced all the time, radial slicks that are junk after how many runs, ...

Just in that list above I've come up with about $15,000 in savings and we still are capable of running a second under in good conditions. Yes, we have a Corvette which is more expensive than say an F-body but that's what we had, what we wanted to build, and a little different than other cars in our class.

Scott

So are you saying you have taken your car as far as pure stock allows? You are using all the best parts allowed and built the drivetrain as far as the pure stock rules allow?

Originally Posted by Harry 6674

So are you saying you have taken your car as far as pure stock allows? You are using all the best parts allowed and built the drivetrain as far as the pure stock rules allow?

Oh no ... by no means. We're running a $500 used street converter and stock transmission. A race converter and transmission with lightweight internals would go faster. Also, the car could take more gear. The longblock is stock other than a legal Bullet cam ... someone like Jeff Warren could pick it up significantly with better heads and shortblock tricks. A lot of weight could be removed and then relocated to the rear if necessary. There is honestly another half second in it if we got serious. But, if we put our OEM wheels and tires back on we could turn the AC on and drive this car across the country tomorrow.

[Harry 6674]

Originally Posted by Tar Heel

Oh no ... by no means. We're running a $500 used street converter and stock transmission. A race converter and transmission with lightweight internals would go faster. Also, the car could take more gear. The longblock is stock other than a legal Bullet cam ... someone like Jeff Warren could pick it up significantly with better heads and shortblock tricks. A lot of weight could be removed and then relocated to the rear if necessary. There is honestly another half second in it if we got serious. But, if we put our OEM wheels and tires back on we could turn the AC on and drive this car across the country tomorrow.

That is the point I was trying to make. Pure stock is cheaper for you because you want it that way. If you choose to try to make your car the fastest the cost would go up. It's the same in NHRA. Fast costs money.

Originally Posted by Harry 6674

That is the point I was trying to make. Pure stock is cheaper for you because you want it that way. If you choose to try to make your car the fastest the cost would go up. It's the same in NHRA. Fast costs money.

Yes, I agree with you. Good point. It does cost money to go as fast as you can and be the quickest. My additional point was that Pure Stock is a nice alternative. We haven't maxed our car out, run "off the shelf street" parts, and still are able to run almost 1 under. There aren't too many cars in each class and seem to be geographically spread out so the chances of a heads-up race are slim. I don't remember seeing one on DRC ever. Yes, we could spend another $15K+ to go 1.5 under but what's the point. What my original point was is that in NHRA Stock Eliminator it's about impossible to do it cheap. All the combinations have been twisted out, HP added, there's no more favorable AFHS unless it's a $100K+ new factory car, and with the popularity of NHRA class racing you're almost certain to go heads-up somewhere so you better bring lots of money. We don't face those issues. Heck, for the little investment we have (yes, the original car was expensive but we chose that) we could set an IHRA national record any time we want but I've never had the heads off the car and honestly don't know that I could get it all back together with just my wife and I in a teardown barn at a track.

If I lived near Charlotte, NC with all the IHRA tracks and events that they have locally I've never run anything but IHRA and would start out in Pure Stock and most likely stay there unless I won the lottery.

Scott

[LIGOOMBA]

The Pure Stock class seams very doable . Still leaning towards building the car . Paint body,engine, wiring ,plumbing, I can do by myself.trans and roll cage I will not attempt. I can tig and mig pretty good and do lots of fab work but still not that confident . I'm very meticulous when I do things , so what ever car I buy I'm gonna end up re painting and doing it to my likings . A roller with a good cage will work fine. The Camaro on racing junk looks like it would work, white with orange stripes,! I think he wants 5,500 rolling . Right now I can't do that , need to sell present car. Although this thread is very interesting . IHRA book on the way as well.

[Dan Fahey]

Originally Posted by Harry 6674

I really haven't figured out why pure stock would be so much cheaper? Maybe you take a totally original car to a race and qualify, I'm not sure, but if you want to have killer car the costs would go up. If you wanted to build a top of the class car I doubt there would be a 3K$ difference, if you can do most of the work yourself. I've never seen the pure stock rules so as usual I'm probably all wet.

There is a huge difference.
There maybe $3k difference in some cars. Mostly lower class.
However it is the legacy costs such as fuel and racing seat belts.
Full Stocker engines can run $10-$15k.
Got to match that up with a proper trans, rear, headers, roll bar..etc, etc, etc.

There seems to ba rival of more racers running Pure Stock.
If NHRA adds it you will see a large shift.
They are less stressed and more reliable inthe long run.

Dan

[Dan Fahey]

Tar Heal knows my car well. We were part of ISSCA. A huge Impala SS Club.

My 1995 Impala SS runs G/PS. But raced in brackets for about 15 years.
Making sure the engine was correct for the class.
Had Jeff Warren build an engine for the car 190k mile car.

Over the years rebuilt and reinforced everything on the car.
It has run a best of 12.88/8.15 on a cold air day at Cecil County Dragway.

However I drive my car to all the IHRA races. It has AC hooked up.
It is wonderful on those hot summer days going back to the pits.
Recently 8 hour drive to Darlington, SC from Germantown, Md.

There is more in the car to catch the Mustangs in the same class.
Going to make more changes this Winter.

One of these days I will find a place to park a car trailer.
There is a really nice aluminum one for sale on Class Racer ads.
Until then it will run exceeding the 4300 lb minimum for the class.

Btw take a look at the Pure Stock pictures in the Photo Gallery.
You will not be disappointed.

Dan