Foxbody Stocker/Bracket Racer

[Rory McNeil]

Originally Posted by BLIND MULE

I was just curious because we have been 4.70s in the eigth with high 1 teen 60fts. Was just curious.

Not a Stock or S/S car with a stick, is it? Yeah, I`ve seen several 9 to high 8 second "power adder" type Mustangs work with a 8.8, BUT those cars normally launch fairly lightly, with low boost, retarded timing, etc, and then once its rolling get to full power. Hardly the same thing as dropping the clutch at 6000+ RPM. Plus with the high speeds those boosted cars run, they normally run much less rear gear ratio than a Stocker. With no Pro gears available for a 8.8, I`ve broke 2 sets of 5.13 "street gears" in my 85 Mustang stickshift Stocker, running mid-low 12s. Don`t forget the low ratio gears a Stocker typically runs have much fewer teeth on the pinion, and shorter teeth on the ring gear, than say a 3.7-4.10 ratio, and are obviously more prone to impact breakage. Then factor in the weak axle tubes, and poorer ratio selection, compared to a 9", and I certainly would prefer a 9" over the 8.8, at least with the stick.

[Jeff Swanson]

Scott, I've been out of the Stocker game for awhile but I'd take the HO @ 215hp over the '93 Cobra @ 252. Take a look at the '88 Saleen: HO combo, it can make I/SA @ 2750#, and you can run an auto. Some added expense for the body kit. I haven't surfed every year of the 87-93 LX Hatch cars, but I think the Saleen is the only one that will make I/SA right now. Double check me, if you find one (12.99 factor or lower) there would be no reason to do the Saleen other than to be different. If you don't care about running the faster class then stick with what you've got.

I never broke an 8.8 in my '93 Cobra Stocker. If you were buying everything from scratch I'd go the 9" route. You've already got an 8.8, beef it up as your budget allows. It'll last forever.

[SwillRacer]

Originally Posted by Jeff Swanson

Take a look at the '88 Saleen: HO combo, it can make I/SA @ 2750#, and you can run an auto. Some added expense for the body kit. I haven't surfed every year of the 87-93 LX Hatch cars, but I think the Saleen is the only one that will make I/SA right now. Double check me, if you find one (12.99 factor or lower) there would be no reason to do the Saleen other than to be different. If you don't care about running the faster class then stick with what you've got.

Jeff/Anyone,

I've spent the last 45 minutes on nhraracer.com trying to hunt down the specs for Saleen mustangs and have found absolutely nothing. Where are you guys getting your info on the Saleen and its I/SA potential? Obviously, I am missing something somewhere....

[Jeff Swanson]

Originally Posted by SwillRacer

Jeff/Anyone,

I've spent the last 45 minutes on nhraracer.com trying to hunt down the specs for Saleen mustangs and have found absolutely nothing. Where are you guys getting your info on the Saleen and its I/SA potential? Obviously, I am missing something somewhere....

The engine specs are the same as any '88 225/215hp 5.0 HO found in the GTs and LXs. You can find car itself in the Stock Car Classification Guide under 1988 Ford. It's the last Mustang listed.

What are you looking for specifically?

[SwillRacer]

Originally Posted by Jeff Swanson

The engine specs are the same as any '88 225/215hp 5.0 HO found in the GTs and LXs. You can find car itself in the Stock Car Classification Guide under 1988 Ford. It's the last Mustang listed.

What are you looking for specifically?

Ya know what, it was a rookie mistake on my part. I was looking at the classification for 1989 which is my cars model year and there is no Saleen specs. Why do the Saleen's get to weigh so much less? I'm guessing its because of the Saleen's lighter weight suspension parts = lighter shipping weight?

[SwillRacer]

Well, here's what I've been up to tonight while most of you are watch bowl games and drinking beer. LOL!

First, I pulled the T-5. (Sorry about the size and orientation of this pic. I rotated it in photobucket and when I view it in there it looks right, but not here for some reason - Yes I did save my changes in photobucket!)


Then I went after the short block.


I still have the car up on jack stands so I was questioning whether I'd be able to get the engine up high enough to clear the fenders and core. Turns out I had about 6 inches to spare!! Yeeeeehaaaaa!!


And here is where I stopped for the night. My master bedroom is right over the garage so I didn't want the compressor to be kicking on/off too late and wake up the wife. This is what 120K miles and a few years of sitting around looks like. Before I do anything else I'm going to have to head over to Harbor Freight and pick up a parts washer.

[SwillRacer]

what do you guys recommend for getting rust off the exterior surfaces of the block? Sand blast? Angle die grinder with some of those fiber surface cleaner discs?

In my experience I've been fortunate to only have worked on new racing blocks so they were always nice and clean before we painted them. I've never really had to contend with all this rust and sludge. I guess I'm spoiled.

[Jeff Swanson]

Originally Posted by SwillRacer

Why do the Saleen's get to weigh so much less? I'm guessing its because of the Saleen's lighter weight suspension parts = lighter shipping weight?

I can't see any reason why a Saleen would be any lighter than a Mustang GT. Back in the day I think someone had Ford submit a "creative" shipping weight for the Saleen so that it would fit the faster SS/GT classes with a Cleveland.

[Damn Yankee]

Originally Posted by Jeff Swanson

I can't see any reason why a Saleen would be any lighter than a Mustang GT. Back in the day I think someone had Ford submit a "creative" shipping weight for the Saleen so that it would fit the faster SS/GT classes with a Cleveland.

I know where there is a 428 FE GT/B Saleen Mustang that is really light...........pretty sure he has dipped in the 8's as well

[BLIND MULE]

Originally Posted by Rory McNeil

Not a Stock or S/S car with a stick, is it? Yeah, I`ve seen several 9 to high 8 second "power adder" type Mustangs work with a 8.8, BUT those cars normally launch fairly lightly, with low boost, retarded timing, etc, and then once its rolling get to full power. Hardly the same thing as dropping the clutch at 6000+ RPM. Plus with the high speeds those boosted cars run, they normally run much less rear gear ratio than a Stocker. With no Pro gears available for a 8.8, I`ve broke 2 sets of 5.13 "street gears" in my 85 Mustang stickshift Stocker, running mid-low 12s. Don`t forget the low ratio gears a Stocker typically runs have much fewer teeth on the pinion, and shorter teeth on the ring gear, than say a 3.7-4.10 ratio, and are obviously more prone to impact breakage. Then factor in the weak axle tubes, and poorer ratio selection, compared to a 9", and I certainly would prefer a 9" over the 8.8, at least with the stick.

This car would probably run 7.20s but I get what you are saying, basically it shocks everything more.. The way we build the braces for the housing, i'm not saying you couldn't break a tube but I'd have to see you break or bend one. Thanks for the info