Roll cage door bar and window crank

Mike Taylor 3601 · 06-25-2015, 08:39 AM

I have to have my windows working,maybe it's just me but can't stand to drive something that window or door doesn't work correctly,if I had to open door to roll down window,it would aggravate me LOL. other pet peeve is,it drives me nuts to drive a car on the street that is missing side or rear view mirror.
Mike Taylor 3601

Ed Wright · 06-25-2015, 11:08 AM

I had & kept my power windows. Very nice to be able to get some air through the car while strapped in. Just roll them up as I roll into the water box. I could not reach across to crank the passenger side up while strapped in. Much easier all around. I have weighed both power & manual doors. Within 2 lbs of each other.

GallopinGhost · 06-25-2015, 03:00 PM

Without a doubt, it doesn't make sense to put a ton of money and time into a car and can't roll down the dang window. I have a S&W roll cage kit in it, and while it's a nice cage, the door bar is a PITA to climb over. I think I'll put a swing out kit on the drivers side and make sure it clears the handles. Probably should have listened to one of my "advisers" and put in the swing out bar in the first place.......

Ed Wright · 06-25-2015, 06:51 PM

I have swing-out bars too. Makes working inside, under the dash, etc, possible. I put the pins in for tech, and before getting in to run. You get used to crawling over the bars eventually.

FireSale · 06-25-2015, 06:57 PM

I'm not going to question the safety aspect of the NHRA rulebook as I know the cage specs come from the folks at SFI, but you just can't have a crash bar that crosses the designated body points in the specs and operate a manual window crank. An electric kit for my Mustang would set me back something like $700. It's a 68 coupe and that seems to matter somehow.

Dale

GallopinGhost · 06-25-2015, 08:15 PM

Dale, following the rule book, with my car, and the seat in the location that it's in, is what got me into the position where I can't operate the window. I've seen quite a few door bars that are not straight, they have some type of bend at the end where it meets the floor. Mine are straight now. I am presently thinking about a swing out kit with a bend at the end. I have mixed feelings about a swing out bar, no way in the world it's as strong as a solid bar.

FireSale · 06-25-2015, 08:56 PM

Larry Woodfin's GT Truck over in the Builds section has a contoured door bar. Here's a link to the pic. It's on page 21 of his Super-10 thread.

http://classracer.com/classforum/sho...&postcount=204

He knows what he's doing, but this one hasn't been to tech yet.

BTW; I followed the book on my build, too. Even overbuilt it on safety stuff. I put a swing out on the passenger side for maintenance and stuff. It's not - in my opinion - safe in a crash. Drivers side is solid.

Dale

GallopinGhost · 06-26-2015, 07:28 AM

Thanks Dale. I'll have to sleep on it. Maybe the best choose is to bend the solid bars on both sides so it's easier to get in and be able to roll the window down. Probably doable, but the bar won't be straight.

06-25-2015, 08:39 AM	#1
Mike Taylor 3601 VIP Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Somerset,Ky Posts: 1,371 Likes: 352 Liked 306 Times in 103 Posts	Re: Roll cage door bar and window crank I have to have my windows working,maybe it's just me but can't stand to drive something that window or door doesn't work correctly,if I had to open door to roll down window,it would aggravate me LOL. other pet peeve is,it drives me nuts to drive a car on the street that is missing side or rear view mirror. Mike Taylor 3601

06-25-2015, 11:08 AM	#2
Ed Wright Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sand Springs, OK Posts: 8,132 Likes: 896 Liked 390 Times in 170 Posts	Re: Roll cage door bar and window crank I had & kept my power windows. Very nice to be able to get some air through the car while strapped in. Just roll them up as I roll into the water box. I could not reach across to crank the passenger side up while strapped in. Much easier all around. I have weighed both power & manual doors. Within 2 lbs of each other. __________________ Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA Last edited by Ed Wright; 06-26-2015 at 08:28 AM.

06-25-2015, 03:00 PM	#3
GallopinGhost Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: VA Posts: 230 Likes: 23 Liked 21 Times in 13 Posts	Re: Roll cage door bar and window crank Without a doubt, it doesn't make sense to put a ton of money and time into a car and can't roll down the dang window. I have a S&W roll cage kit in it, and while it's a nice cage, the door bar is a PITA to climb over. I think I'll put a swing out kit on the drivers side and make sure it clears the handles. Probably should have listened to one of my "advisers" and put in the swing out bar in the first place....... __________________ Brian Carpenter Stock 1358

06-25-2015, 06:51 PM	#4
Ed Wright Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sand Springs, OK Posts: 8,132 Likes: 896 Liked 390 Times in 170 Posts	Re: Roll cage door bar and window crank I have swing-out bars too. Makes working inside, under the dash, etc, possible. I put the pins in for tech, and before getting in to run. You get used to crawling over the bars eventually. __________________ Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA

06-25-2015, 06:57 PM	#5
FireSale VIP Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Lakewood Washington Posts: 1,407 Likes: 29 Liked 237 Times in 126 Posts	Re: Roll cage door bar and window crank I'm not going to question the safety aspect of the NHRA rulebook as I know the cage specs come from the folks at SFI, but you just can't have a crash bar that crosses the designated body points in the specs and operate a manual window crank. An electric kit for my Mustang would set me back something like $700. It's a 68 coupe and that seems to matter somehow. Dale __________________ Dale Shearon 68 Mustang 6394

06-25-2015, 08:15 PM	#6
GallopinGhost Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: VA Posts: 230 Likes: 23 Liked 21 Times in 13 Posts	Re: Roll cage door bar and window crank Dale, following the rule book, with my car, and the seat in the location that it's in, is what got me into the position where I can't operate the window. I've seen quite a few door bars that are not straight, they have some type of bend at the end where it meets the floor. Mine are straight now. I am presently thinking about a swing out kit with a bend at the end. I have mixed feelings about a swing out bar, no way in the world it's as strong as a solid bar. __________________ Brian Carpenter Stock 1358

06-25-2015, 08:56 PM	#7
FireSale VIP Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Lakewood Washington Posts: 1,407 Likes: 29 Liked 237 Times in 126 Posts	Re: Roll cage door bar and window crank Larry Woodfin's GT Truck over in the Builds section has a contoured door bar. Here's a link to the pic. It's on page 21 of his Super-10 thread. http://classracer.com/classforum/sho...&postcount=204 He knows what he's doing, but this one hasn't been to tech yet. BTW; I followed the book on my build, too. Even overbuilt it on safety stuff. I put a swing out on the passenger side for maintenance and stuff. It's not - in my opinion - safe in a crash. Drivers side is solid. Dale __________________ Dale Shearon 68 Mustang 6394 Last edited by FireSale; 06-25-2015 at 09:00 PM.

06-26-2015, 07:28 AM	#8
GallopinGhost Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: VA Posts: 230 Likes: 23 Liked 21 Times in 13 Posts	Re: Roll cage door bar and window crank Thanks Dale. I'll have to sleep on it. Maybe the best choose is to bend the solid bars on both sides so it's easier to get in and be able to roll the window down. Probably doable, but the bar won't be straight. __________________ Brian Carpenter Stock 1358