Setting up Cal Tracs

[philbilly]

On my 283 car. I set up using this chart. Of course I want to hit the tires the hardest. Lol. I made my first run and it is driving right real hard. Instead of making passenger side longer I shortens the bar on the driver side After a few runs I got the car going straight but on the shift the car seems to dart right. Just on the jerk of the shift. Do I just need to twist a bit more Or should I take some of the bite out of it? Bars in bottom hole and no pre load it never done this.

[Scott P3274]

Hi Troy, I was able to do some testing with the adjustment to the front shocks and travel limiter. It didn't go well. I took out the travel limiter and it improved but it spins as soon as the front starts to rise. I then installed double adjustable QA1 stocker stars on the rear. I adjusted them as you said, all the way tight on compression and a couple clics from tight on extension. It still blows the tires off with the trans brake. Foot braking, it spins as well but not as bad.
Any other recomendations for the trans brake set up?
Should I go to a much closer to 50/50 (slightly tight) set up for foot braking?

Your help is greatly appreciated.
Scott

Try backing off on the extension adjustment on the rear shocks. Sounds like the rear is a bit tight. Have somebody take a video of the car and watch it. That may help you

[Jeff Lee]

I'd be hard pressed to identify a situation where you want the compression at max stiffness on a double adjustable rear shock. Try it in the middle for compression.
On extension, start in the middle and progressively adjust towards a stiffer setting. Bad tracks need the extension softer, great tracks can take it stiffer.
Once you have the extension figured out, then you can work on the compression.
But no matter what shock valving you have, get rid of those 26" slicks! Taller is better.

[Troy Henderson]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

I'd be hard pressed to identify a situation where you want the compression at max stiffness on a double adjustable rear shock. Try it in the middle for compression.
On extension, start in the middle and progressively adjust towards a stiffer setting. Bad tracks need the extension softer, great tracks can take it stiffer.
Once you have the extension figured out, then you can work on the compression.
But no matter what shock valving you have, get rid of those 26" slicks! Taller is better.

Good advice Jeff. The reason I like the compression fairly stiff if for a leaf spring car. They separate a lot when they leave which creates a bunch of stored energy that can pull the wheel back up too quick. This applies the most to a stick car. Loosen it some for a trans brake car, and even more for a footbrake car.

[74fb461]

Originally Posted by Troy Henderson

Good advice Jeff. The reason I like the compression fairly stiff if for a leaf spring car. They separate a lot when they leave which creates a bunch of stored energy that can pull the wheel back up too quick. This applies the most to a stick car. Loosen it some for a trans brake car, and even more for a footbrake car.

Is this for slicks or radials? On my car I run full stiff on comp, and anywhere from 5-10 off full tight on ext on my DA Afco's in back. 18-19 lbs of air , this is on a et ss 275/60 STREET RADIAL, Now trying the radial pro's. Foot brake by the way using a 2 step. I've been 1.29 with the 4.10's and 1.32 with the 3.73's on the ET tires in my 3580 lb 74 Pump Gas firebird.

[Troy Henderson]

Originally Posted by 74fb461

Is this for slicks or radials? On my car I run full stiff on comp, and anywhere from 5-10 off full tight on ext on my DA Afco's in back. 18-19 lbs of air , this is on a et ss 275/60 STREET RADIAL, Now trying the radial pro's. Foot brake by the way using a 2 step. I've been 1.29 with the 4.10's and 1.32 with the 3.73's on the ET tires in my 3580 lb 74 Pump Gas firebird.

This is for slicks on my application. I'm not a radial guy but they probably need to be much softer to keep the tire planted.

[Scott P3274]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

I'd be hard pressed to identify a situation where you want the compression at max stiffness on a double adjustable rear shock. Try it in the middle for compression.
On extension, start in the middle and progressively adjust towards a stiffer setting. Bad tracks need the extension softer, great tracks can take it stiffer.
Once you have the extension figured out, then you can work on the compression.
But no matter what shock valving you have, get rid of those 26" slicks! Taller is better.

Jeff, Thank you for the input. I will try to get a video of the car leaving and post it so there is more information to diagnose the problme with. I really like the advise on the bad track vs. good track, adjusting with extension. The track I go to is prepped very well for the weekend serise that I can't always attend. The Wednesday night program doesn't get as much attention and is sometimes much worse. I will likely have to adjust the shocks based on the race I am competing in.

I will make your adjustments and keep you posted in the event anyone else can learn from my trial and error.

If you were talking to me about the slicks, I am running 29.5 x 9" slicks. They are bias tires and I may want to try a radial at some point.

Thanks again!
Scott

[Scott P3274]

Troy, I measured the front suspenstion travel, it is 5 1/8" from resting to when the tires just start to lift off the ground when jacking up the front. The rear travel extends all the way until the shocks get to full extension and stop.
I'll keep adjusting and keep you posted.

[Ian Hill]

i have cal track everything in my 68 Camaro. The adjustable rear shocks are set the way all of my foot brake cars have been setup with fully adjustable shocks (this is the third car) at 50/50. i have tried everything but going to a really great prepared track and setting them on kill to see if there's a difference. The fronts are 90/10 with no snubbers. The bars, as per Calverts direction are set at 1/4 turn per load and have never been changed. the car pulls big wheel stands and is one of the quickest f/cm cars i know of. it launchs straight and drives straight. My sixty foot times are consistantly between the ultra quick Lancaster Dragway times of 1.32 and Toronto Motorsportspark times of 1.36-8. The only thing i can see using on a 9" tire car to calm the wheel stand down a bit would be wheelie bars, Ken Kier makes a great bolt on kit that i have been using when i run the oxygenated 109 fuel as it makes just enough torque that the car starts to drive under the wheel stand.

ian