jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue

[Robert Simpson]

We have broken two of them. The first one was only after about 20 runs on the new trans. We figured it was something freak. So we replaced the arm and bought a spare. One year later in valdosta we had the same thing happen, this time when we looked closer it looked like a casting problem. It snapped the arm off smooth with the side of the trans. The shifting linkage was dragging on the ground. We replaced the arm and have gone on with things. That has been several years and many runs ago. We to have a long shifter on it. I hope it was just a freak thing that happened to you. Good luck.

[Run to Rund]

Did you carefully adjust the shifter stops?

[Mike Voth]

You're not alone gmonde. We have been fighting this problem for 3 years now. It was bad enough at one time that we had to bring extra shift levers to the track just to make it through a race. After installing a new one (3/4), it would immediately start twisting and eventually break. When we removed the nut and slid the lever off, the internal hole would be rounded out. Lever was tight, but still moved around. We been through every test imaginable and haven't found a cause. These are the NASCAR hardened, long shift levers. Long shifter, as well. Everything is adjusted properly. Similar situation. We've run the same Jerico for YEARS without fail, then all of a sudden, BOOM, problems around every corner! The one variable you might check is that your bellhousing is indexed properly. If the transmission is misaligned, it will put too much stress on the main shaft and shift forks (and gears), causing the need to use too much force when shifting. We should be out testing in the next couple of weeks. If we figure something out, I'll post it here. Might be time for a Liberty.

[69Cobra]

I've broke one in the last 10 years. When mine broke my stop had loosened up and was not stopping the shifter, the slider/fork/arm was. After adjusting it on the bench with the cover off and seeing what its doing in there I've not had a problem since. But I believe the key is to set the stops with the cover off so you can see what you're doing. I set mine to where it leaves about .030" of play before "bottoming out" and let the dog ring suck the slider in the rest of the way. Haven't had a problem since. Also make sure your shifter rods are running as parallel as possible. Hope this helps

[gmonde]

i have to ask ,,what lenght shifter (long has a short and long version)and what lenght fork arms are you guys running ???i am thinking the both long shifter and fork arms are creating to much leverage for the ecentric to handle ,,also double checked the adjustment
and mentioned previously the fork slides work perfect as well as the sliding 3-4 dog ring

thanks for your replys ,, still investigating gmonde

[Paul Merolla]

Originally Posted by 69Cobra

I've broke one in the last 10 years. When mine broke my stop had loosened up and was not stopping the shifter, the slider/fork/arm was. After adjusting it on the bench with the cover off and seeing what its doing in there I've not had a problem since. But I believe the key is to set the stops with the cover off so you can see what you're doing. I set mine to where it leaves about .030" of play before "bottoming out" and let the dog ring suck the slider in the rest of the way. Haven't had a problem since. Also make sure your shifter rods are running as parallel as possible. Hope this helps

I installed my Long shifter last night and got the rods on when I remembered this thread...this sounds to me like a dumb question, but where are the stops? I don't see anything on the shifter that looks adjustable other than the heims on the rods. I don't want to take this thing to the track for the first time and bust the trans!

[Rory McNeil]

Originally Posted by Paul Merolla

I installed my Long shifter last night and got the rods on when I remembered this thread...this sounds to me like a dumb question, but where are the stops? I don't see anything on the shifter that looks adjustable other than the heims on the rods. I don't want to take this thing to the track for the first time and bust the trans!

I have 2 Jericos with Long V Gate shifters (NON pistol grip), and if my shifters have any stops, I`ve never seen them.

[Run to Rund]

I run the Mr. Gasket vertical gate, aka Hurst V Gate 2. It has a bolt-on set of stops. For the price, the Long darn sure ought to have stops. Apparently it does:

Designed exclusively for G-Force G-101 clutchless transmission.

Allows transmission to be rotated 90¡ for increased ground clearance.

Supplied with stainless steel tube rods and Heim-end linkage for all applications.

Push-pull design virtually eliminates missed shifts.

External shift stops prevent overshifting which can result in transmission damage.

http://longshifters.com/shifter_4_vj1000.asp

[b.guggenmos]

Originally Posted by Rory McNeil

I have 2 Jericos with Long V Gate shifters (NON pistol grip), and if my shifters have any stops, I`ve never seen them.

Like Rory's my Long shifter for the Jerico has no stops either. Brian

[69Cobra]

Originally Posted by Paul Merolla

I installed my Long shifter last night and got the rods on when I remembered this thread...this sounds to me like a dumb question, but where are the stops? I don't see anything on the shifter that looks adjustable other than the heims on the rods. I don't want to take this thing to the track for the first time and bust the trans!

You know I've heard this before... I don't know if you have to tell them you want stops when you order the shifter or what. But I wouldn't use one without. Call Long and tell them you want stops on your shifter and see what they say. They might tell you to send your old one in and $100 with it for the upgraded shifter. I don't know but I wouldn't go banging gears without shifter stops or you are just asking for problems.