jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

has anyone had any problem breaking the jerico shift arm ecentric that actuates the 3-4 shift fork ,, we have the shifter stops inplace ,, we are on the second one ecentric ,,,the bore in the trans case for the ecentric is not oblonged or enlarged ,,,the shift fork checks out good(not bent or distorted) this a new issue that surfaced and have many passes on the tranny with before with no issues ,the only change is the longer shifter dont know if the quality of parts is the issue please chime thanks gmonde

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

You need to talk to Jimmy Bridges in Nashville TN.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I have probably 500 runs on my Jerico with no issues. Haven't heard anybody else with the same issues. I use the long shifter as well.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

What model Jerico is it? Is it a DR4 or a DR4-4? i would take the 3-4 shift fork out and make sure that the groove that fits in the shift arm is not worn. That makes it hard to stay in adjustment. Also, the shift rails can be worn. It basically can be in one gear part way and you happen tp be strong enough and have enough leverage to break it, especially if you have a long shifter and long shift arms. I would suggest taking the top off with the shifter on and running it through the gears on the bench before you put it back in the car.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

we did bench test with the trans before going back in the car,its dr4 wide gear, full case with just the top cover,the trans is real good ,shift rails are not worn ,, even did a car on the stands and ran it thru the gears with no issues ,,,thanks for the reply gmonde

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I had debris between 3-4 slider and hub and broke this link. Bought new slider, hub and link. New link had more material around rectangular hole. New slider had also more clearance on hub, than old one. I have DR4 from 1999 and 10 finger dog rings.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

We have broken two of them. The first one was only after about 20 runs on the new trans. We figured it was something freak. So we replaced the arm and bought a spare. One year later in valdosta we had the same thing happen, this time when we looked closer it looked like a casting problem. It snapped the arm off smooth with the side of the trans. The shifting linkage was dragging on the ground. We replaced the arm and have gone on with things. That has been several years and many runs ago. We to have a long shifter on it. I hope it was just a freak thing that happened to you. Good luck.

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

Did you carefully adjust the shifter stops?

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

You're not alone gmonde. We have been fighting this problem for 3 years now. It was bad enough at one time that we had to bring extra shift levers to the track just to make it through a race. After installing a new one (3/4), it would immediately start twisting and eventually break. When we removed the nut and slid the lever off, the internal hole would be rounded out. Lever was tight, but still moved around. We been through every test imaginable and haven't found a cause. These are the NASCAR hardened, long shift levers. Long shifter, as well. Everything is adjusted properly. Similar situation. We've run the same Jerico for YEARS without fail, then all of a sudden, BOOM, problems around every corner! The one variable you might check is that your bellhousing is indexed properly. If the transmission is misaligned, it will put too much stress on the main shaft and shift forks (and gears), causing the need to use too much force when shifting. We should be out testing in the next couple of weeks. If we figure something out, I'll post it here. Might be time for a Liberty. ;)

Re: jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue
 

I've broke one in the last 10 years. When mine broke my stop had loosened up and was not stopping the shifter, the slider/fork/arm was. After adjusting it on the bench with the cover off and seeing what its doing in there I've not had a problem since. But I believe the key is to set the stops with the cover off so you can see what you're doing. I set mine to where it leaves about .030" of play before "bottoming out" and let the dog ring suck the slider in the rest of the way. Haven't had a problem since. Also make sure your shifter rods are running as parallel as possible. Hope this helps