jerico 3-4 shift arm lever issue

[gmonde]

Originally Posted by Mike Voth

You're not alone gmonde. We have been fighting this problem for 3 years now. It was bad enough at one time that we had to bring extra shift levers to the track just to make it through a race. After installing a new one (3/4), it would immediately start twisting and eventually break. When we removed the nut and slid the lever off, the internal hole would be rounded out. Lever was tight, but still moved around. We been through every test imaginable and haven't found a cause. These are the NASCAR hardened, long shift levers. Long shifter, as well. Everything is adjusted properly. Similar situation. We've run the same Jerico for YEARS without fail, then all of a sudden, BOOM, problems around every corner! The one variable you might check is that your bellhousing is indexed properly. If the transmission is misaligned, it will put too much stress on the main shaft and shift forks (and gears), causing the need to use too much force when shifting. We should be out testing in the next couple of weeks. If we figure something out, I'll post it here. Might be time for a Liberty.

the levers are not breaking its the ecentric that actuates the 3-4 fork thats shearing off ,,the bell housing was indexed thanks for your reply gmonde

[Bobby Fazio]

Originally Posted by Robert Simpson

We have broken two of them. The first one was only after about 20 runs on the new trans. We figured it was something freak. So we replaced the arm and bought a spare. One year later in valdosta we had the same thing happen, this time when we looked closer it looked like a casting problem. It snapped the arm off smooth with the side of the trans. The shifting linkage was dragging on the ground. We replaced the arm and have gone on with things. That has been several years and many runs ago. We to have a long shifter on it. I hope it was just a freak thing that happened to you. Good luck.

This is exactly what happened to me yesterday, do you believe it was a casting problem?

[james schaechter]

Originally Posted by Bobby Fazio

This is exactly what happened to me yesterday, do you believe it was a casting problem?

Bobby, when you nave it apart, make sure that the shift fork didn't bend. It is something the happens mainly with the billet 3-4 fork. Also, on tnat fork, look at the machined groove that the arm goes in. If it has a dent in in, you will have an impossible time getting the shifter adjusted properly. Scott at Jerico says these can be repaired by welding it up and re machining the groove.
I had a couple that had done this after many years of service. It was impossible to get the correct gear engagement. It would be too deep in one dog and barely catching the other.

[Robert Simpson]

Originally Posted by Bobby Fazio

This is exactly what happened to me yesterday, do you believe it was a casting problem?

Bobby, in our case yes it was a casting problem. You could see the impurity in the casting at point of failure. We called Jerico and told them what we saw. They were curious and we sent them the parts back for them to see. They said at the time they believed that it was a "batch" that could have been bad. We run a three speed (265ci). So we do our burnout in 2nd gear so to break the 3/4 arm was do to stress during the run not during our burn out. There is a definate problem in this area. We use the 1-2-4 gears. We also had the clutch very soft no counterweights. I am sure that a clutchless trans would be different, due to the design of the sliders. I think what Joe said is correct but in ours it had so little runs it was different.

Robert

[ROY]

I have been running a Jerico for three seasons behind a 418"Windsor,car runs easy 10.30s-10.40s in a 3200lb 65 Comet on 29.5X13X15 slicks.I just broke the 3/4 shift arm back in September,I had an engineer look at it,he stated it was cast and just case hardened not through hardened.I ordered new shift arms from Jerico,they are beefier and seem to be through hardened.I use a Long shifter with no stops,as everyone I have seen do not have stops! I do third gear burnouts but stick in the clutch just as the tires start to bite.When I installed the new arms I checked the movement of the shifter,rods,and arms,they seem to be moving in a straight plain,no twisting or side loading,and I did not notice the shifter trying to move the arms beyond the engagement point. I will be paying more attention to this issue after reading everyones posts,some great points of concern!! ROY.

[Dave Casey]

Interesting info here, for what it is worth, I have never broken a trans part in my G/S small block car, and I have broken only 2nd gear in my A/S big block car. I have the non stop non pistol grip long shifter in both. It really surprises me how many are doing 3rd and 4th gear burnouts. I have only used 2nd, my fear would be that with a lot more wheel speed, the center of the tire would heat well, but the outside edges would not get as much heat.

They are good tranny's thats for sure.