Recommended Engine Oil ?

[Phillip marvetz]

I'm surprised 1320 hasn't posted a pic on his car yet......

Brad Penn here. Only lost 1 engine so far with it.

[CFMCNC]

Lets start with the type of oil,synthetic or dinosaur,If the engine has marginal to extremely low tension rings or is run without valve seals,the synthetic oil is less likely to cause detonation than the hydrocarbon oil,we only run without valve seals when we put something special in the oil that we want to get into the combustion chamber.Most good synthetics eclipse hydrocarbon oils in temperature affected breakdown.ZDDP is necessary for flat tappet cams,1200-1400PPM is the required range,most auto parts store oils are under 800PPM,It is still good to have higher ZDDP ppm but not necessary with a roller camshaft ,although some of the high rpm,agressive cam big valve spring engines we deal with show better wear results with high ZDDP.The Molybedum content is also importent as the oil mfgs.have removed ZDDP they have increased the moly ppm.problem being that too much moly with an agressive high valve spring pressure cam can cause the needle bearings to glide instead of roll and then flat spot and failure,this has been the cause of many roller lifter failures,and that brings us to the elimination of the needle bearings,It is the best development for our industry.Isky EZ Rolls go into almost every engine we build.Back to oils.My wifes Saturn has Mobile 1,My S-10 Blazer has Mobile 1.My 2005 Duramax has pre 2007 Rotella in engine and Allison in trans.Our racing engines run several different oils depending on need. We use Brad Penn ,Joe Gibbs,Royal Purple and LAT .We are having oils tested by more than one lab.There is a website called Bob The Oil Guy,lots of test input there also.Lastly ,Viscosity,the days of 20-50 are gone,just about every type of motorsports is using lighter viscositys with sucess.Bill C.

[Aubrey N Bruneau]

Lots of info there, Bill. Thanks for posting.
I ordered a case of 5 / 30 Royal Purple racing oil.
I have .003" - .0035" clearance on crank, and .008"+ piston to wall. Very low tension Total Seal oil rings, and using regular teflon valve stem seals ( 3/8" guides ). Lifters are solid flat tappet, light weight coated tool steel.
I started the engine today, and ran it for about 20 minutes ( flushed the cooling system ). When this thing is cool, say 70-100 degrees F, oil pressure at 1600 RPM is over 70.
I don't like it.

[Dwight Southerland]

Originally Posted by Aubrey N Bruneau

When this thing is cool, say 70-100 degrees F, oil pressure at 1600 RPM is over 70.
I don't like it.

Your issue with high oil pressure is more than just your selection of oil.

I sure do get tired of you East Coast boys bad-mouthin' each other. 1320racer, you remind me of the Yankees who come down here and try to tell us how to raise our beans - they got some good ideas and it sounds fine, but they don't live here.

[HP HUNTER]

Originally Posted by buzzinhalfdozen

WOW, now don't you feel better? You finally came out and said it, you don't race a "Class Car". Now as for your car being faster than mine that's easy to prove.... I have to weigh 11lbs. per cubic inch, 276X 11=3036 -100lbs. for auto trans Min. weight for me is 2936, I run it at 2975lbs. I average 9.75 seconds. So lets set your car up to 11lbs. per cubic inch, then you post how fast you went,deal? Saying your Big Block car is faster than a car with a 6 cyl. is typical bracket racer chump talk. So in parting let me congratulate you on your "coming out" and please let me know your results at 11lbs. per cube, can't wait to here the results. Joe

"Saying your Big Block car is faster than a car with a 6 cyl. is typical bracket racer chump talk" Im going to have to agree with you here. LOL awww. Personally I like to compare Eds 2900 pound 522 inch aftermarket headed, compressioned up car to Grossi's 454 flattop pistoned, 2.06 valved peanut port, Q-jet equiped SS/GTA sunfire, of course I dont think Franks ever had the opurtunity to run out there at Disneyland, like Ed runs at NEGATIVE 2000b feet air, with a 30.50 baro, but somehow Franks 8.70s look pretty good to me right now., what part of the truth dont you like Ed??????????.

[Pvt Parts]

Originally Posted by HP HUNTER

"Saying your Big Block car is faster than a car with a 6 cyl. is typical bracket racer chump talk" Im going to have to agree with you here. LOL awww. Personally I like to compare Eds 2900 pound 522 inch aftermarket headed, compressioned up car to Grossi's 454 flattop pistoned, 2.06 valved peanut port, Q-jet equiped SS/GTA sunfire, of course I dont think Franks ever had the opurtunity to run out there at Disneyland, like Ed runs at NEGATIVE 2000b feet air, with a 30.50 baro, but somehow Franks 8.70s look pretty good to me right now., what part of the truth dont you like Ed??????????.

X2 Go... Go... Go...

Hey Aubrey, I'm not sure having over 70psi of oil pressure at speed is a detrement to your racing program right now. When your engine is at 100F water temp what do you think your oil temp is? Most likely much cooler. what kind of pressure do you have at 160 oil temp ?? how much do you think 70 psi of oil pressure is hurting you? 2 hp? 10 HP? WHat oil pump are you running?
I ran the Royal Purple #11 in my cars with good luck, as well as the Gibbs oil. I also like the Valvoline racing, but I am told that they are out of the racing oil business. I think determining the viscosity of the oil you run depends on the oil tempature range you will be racing with, as well as bearing clearances.
Good luck out there this year, I like your car alot and hope you make strides with it this year....

Originally Posted by Aubrey N Bruneau

Lots of info there, Bill. Thanks for posting.
I ordered a case of 5 / 30 Royal Purple racing oil.
I have .003" - .0035" clearance on crank, and .008"+ piston to wall. Very low tension Total Seal oil rings, and using regular teflon valve stem seals ( 3/8" guides ). Lifters are solid flat tappet, light weight coated tool steel.
I started the engine today, and ran it for about 2 minutes ( flushed the cooling system ). When this thing is cool, say 70-100 degrees F, oil pressure at 1600 RPM is over 70.
I don't like it.

[rx dealer]

Originally Posted by HP HUNTER

"Saying your Big Block car is faster than a car with a 6 cyl. is typical bracket racer chump talk" Im going to have to agree with you here. LOL awww. Personally I like to compare Eds 2900 pound 522 inch aftermarket headed, compressioned up car to Grossi's 454 flattop pistoned, 2.06 valved peanut port, Q-jet equiped SS/GTA sunfire, of course I dont think Franks ever had the opurtunity to run out there at Disneyland, like Ed runs at NEGATIVE 2000b feet air, with a 30.50 baro, but somehow Franks 8.70s look pretty good to me right now., what part of the truth dont you like Ed??????????.

Great post...X 1000..Luke SS 311 Super Stock GT/E

Good job Joe B

[CFMCNC]

Oil pressure is the net resistance to flow.the more internal hemorage,the lower oil pressure,the pump rpm is related to idle pressure and the relief valve sets the peak pressure,Volume is the key to addequate lubrication,Nascar Cup at 9500rpms and NHRA Pro-Stocks approaching 11,000 rpm ,both dont see over 50 # oil pressure,high oil pressure is power lost.Blown Alcohol and Nitro engines run 50-70w oil to combat fuel dilution.Bill C.

[Pvt Parts]

Ok, here's the low down on oil. If you are a Stock, Super Stock or Comp racer you're goal is to make the most HP without causing damage. Finding that spot with your combination is like finding the perfect clutch set up in a stick car or the perfect converter on an automatic car.

Is there HP is one oil over another???? Yes but just changing oil is not where the real gains are at. What you are looking for is the thinnest oil that will provide the lubrication and cooling properties you need. The real gains are in being able to run the lowest oil pressure with the minimal amount of oil in the pan reducing HP drag on the pump and windage in the pan.

In Ed's defense I will say that Mobil 1 (Extremely low viscosity) with a certain additive (I can't tell you the name) was the best at all of the above that I found. My SS/A Corvette went through the lights with the oil pressure gauge dancing between 40 and 60 lbs. You had to clutch it and shut it off immediately or the oil pressure would go to zero when you hit the brakes.

When I sent my Comp engines back to Houston to be freshened (every 30 to 40 passes) the guys in the shop would drain the oil and say "What the hell is that?" The oil drained out of the pan like water.

BTW, I've never had any lubrication issues with bearings, valve train or cyl walls. Many of the people on this forum could find additional gains of .02 to .03 or more by working this method. It's definitely worth it if you are looking for every .01. Take it slow and check the bottom end.