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#1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northern New Jersey suburbs
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Go with GT/DAor lower Ed.....
A nice small block...... Some 400's are popular as well as some old 327 combos. If you really want to be bold go with an LT-1......Same engine as Larry's 2 cars but built to SS specs....They are very fast. Still get to use a 3 speed....use a trans brake.....keep your big wheelies and run in the 9's.... Buy a motorhome......and a spare everything.... Spend your kids inheritance money up before they can.....Haha...
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Rich Biebel S/C 1479 Stock 147R |
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#2 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 2,628
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right and be treated like sh.t by the NHRA, race for peanuts and beg contingency sponsors for $. No thanks I'll pass.
Bracket racing pays far better and is far more fun. In 3 years I'm buying a stacker and building Kyle a top shelf piperack. Last edited by 1320racer; 05-04-2012 at 11:06 AM. |
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#3 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 656
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Last edited by HP HUNTER; 05-05-2012 at 08:27 AM. |
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#4 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Avon, Indiana
Posts: 327
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X2 Go... Go... Go...
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Scott Wilcox 2193 3x National Champion SS/A, SS/B, SS/K, SS/L, SS/AM, A/SM, C/SM, B/A, C/A, G/A, H/A |
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#5 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Lake Orion, Michigan
Posts: 337
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Good job Joe B |
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#6 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Somwhere in NJ
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Oil pressure is the net resistance to flow.the more internal hemorage,the lower oil pressure,the pump rpm is related to idle pressure and the relief valve sets the peak pressure,Volume is the key to addequate lubrication,Nascar Cup at 9500rpms and NHRA Pro-Stocks approaching 11,000 rpm ,both dont see over 50 # oil pressure,high oil pressure is power lost.Blown Alcohol and Nitro engines run 50-70w oil to combat fuel dilution.Bill C.
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#7 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Avon, Indiana
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X2 I remember when we changed to a newly developed low drag pump for our dry sump. It was 4 to 5 HP.
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Scott Wilcox 2193 3x National Champion SS/A, SS/B, SS/K, SS/L, SS/AM, A/SM, C/SM, B/A, C/A, G/A, H/A |
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#8 |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Avon, Indiana
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Ok, here's the low down on oil. If you are a Stock, Super Stock or Comp racer you're goal is to make the most HP without causing damage. Finding that spot with your combination is like finding the perfect clutch set up in a stick car or the perfect converter on an automatic car.
Is there HP is one oil over another???? Yes but just changing oil is not where the real gains are at. What you are looking for is the thinnest oil that will provide the lubrication and cooling properties you need. The real gains are in being able to run the lowest oil pressure with the minimal amount of oil in the pan reducing HP drag on the pump and windage in the pan. In Ed's defense I will say that Mobil 1 (Extremely low viscosity) with a certain additive (I can't tell you the name) was the best at all of the above that I found. My SS/A Corvette went through the lights with the oil pressure gauge dancing between 40 and 60 lbs. You had to clutch it and shut it off immediately or the oil pressure would go to zero when you hit the brakes. When I sent my Comp engines back to Houston to be freshened (every 30 to 40 passes) the guys in the shop would drain the oil and say "What the hell is that?" The oil drained out of the pan like water. BTW, I've never had any lubrication issues with bearings, valve train or cyl walls. Many of the people on this forum could find additional gains of .02 to .03 or more by working this method. It's definitely worth it if you are looking for every .01. Take it slow and check the bottom end.
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Scott Wilcox 2193 3x National Champion SS/A, SS/B, SS/K, SS/L, SS/AM, A/SM, C/SM, B/A, C/A, G/A, H/A |
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#9 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Somwhere in NJ
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#10 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chicago, IL
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Another good comparison is John Clegg's SS/AM, 457 BBC, 3250 lbs, 7.90s, compared to a 522 BBC, 2900 lbs, 8.90s.
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3207 D/SA, C/ED |
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