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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 644
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Brad Penn or Valvoline VR1 racing oils.Very good oils,for older cars
Kevin |
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#2 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Jersey
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Everyone will recommend what they use and/or what their engine builder recommends and sells.
![]() Further, what was the must run oil last year according to those that post on these forums isn't today, the recommendations change with the wind and who spends more $ on their marketing campain. ![]() Me, I've been using Mobil 1 5W-30 since 1986 in my passenger cars and since 1991 in my race engines and I ain't changing because I read on a forum that some other oil is better. Your only choice is deciding what viscosity to run as well whether you want to run conventional, semi synthetic or full synthetic. Otherwise for what you have and are doing oil is oil. ![]() If you feel you need zinc, Lucas and others sell additives. Last edited by 1320racer; 05-03-2012 at 09:31 AM. |
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#3 |
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Thanks guys...
yes, I guess it's the synthetic vs mineral again. Is there an advantage to synthetic ? I never found one. I guess what !'m after is stability. I never have to worry about going rounds, and being unable to cool the engine down. PLENTY of time there ! So, typically, I CAN keep the engine cool for the pass. This is why I'm leaning towards a thinner viscosity... say a 10 / 30 or even 0 / 30 synthetic. However, this engine cost me a freaking FORTUNE, and I'm probably more concerned about it's survival, than that extra 4 HP ! So, I'd like my oil pressure to be kept around 65 for a run... but have enough stability to stay there, should I be in that environment where the temperature is allowed to get up there. People tell me that only synthetic can do this ?
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Aubrey N Bruneau 6409 C/S 62 BelAir sport coupe, 409 HP 409 |
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#4 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Florida
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I would recommend Amsoil synthetics as well. They have a wide variety of viscosities to fit your needs and all have high levels of zinc. Personally, I use the 5w20 Dominator. My engines exhibit excellent wear characteristics. Different viscosities will affect the average overall oil pressure.
http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbu...t%20tappet.pdf Feel free to PM me for sources and more info. |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Massapequa Park,NY
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Joe Gibbs 5w-30 synthetic has worked for years while still having decent oil pressure. And the engines come apart looking really good.
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#6 |
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Jersey
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if the engine clearances were set correctly and it had proper lubrication there's no reason the engine shouldn't "come apart looking really good".
Joe Gibbs oil is just the latest player in the game the internet crowd is talking up, before it, Brad Penn was the flavor of the day and before it Royal Purple. All I know is that I've been using Mobil 1 for 26 years without issue despite the changing formulas and EPA mandates and my engines always come apart looking good and my last freshen up was after 500 passes seeing 8000 in the lights every weekend, 36 weekends a season. Good luck finding a stock/super stock racer that puts half as many passes on his engine before freshening. ![]() |
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#7 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 48
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Your not comparing apples to apples when you compare a S/SS motor to a throttle stop motor or a bracket motor. If you have never dynoed Gibbs oils against "your oil", you might want too. There is HP to be had. But I guess when you can run an unlimited engine you don't need the extra 5 HP that a good oil can give you. And yes, to answer your question, there are many S/SS motors with hundreds of runs on them. You are not the only racer who runs every weekend. |
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#8 | |
VIP Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Massapequa Park,NY
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#9 | ||
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Jersey
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Joe, what part of the truth and the facts below don't you understand or agree with? Enlighten us
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Quote:
![]() Last edited by 1320racer; 05-04-2012 at 09:13 AM. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Bellevue Ohio
Posts: 984
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No where in either of those posts did you offer anything more than YOUR opinion, you bad mouthed a few oil brands of which you've probably never ran, you stated you've ran Mobil1 for26 years though your engine has nothing in commom with the OP's. You completely failed to answer my question of what class "E" is, you've expressed YOUR truth, offered no facts so once again you've offered information irrelevent to the thread. IF you respond please include your S/S class and how far under the index your perfectly scienced out "S/S legal" unit runs as I've looked again and fail to see the "E" designation. FWIW it's OK to be a bracket racer, we all are to a point but at least have the stones to fess up to it, and quit giving bracket racer advice to racers who are trying to make their stuff FAST!
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Joe Buchanan SS/BX 3117 |
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