new slicks

[brent flynn]

Thinkin its time to get a new set of rubber for my bird...since im wanting to build the stocker combo for it, i might as well try a set of radials(9x30)...
Wondering will they work ok on 8'' wheels that i have? They are welds.
Tubeless or no? Also, will they work ok even if i dont have trick springs in the front end to help with transfer? I will eventually have some springs in it, but it may be awhile. Are the Hoosiers the recommended tires? Part No.? Thanks for your replies, Brent

the car does 1.50 60fts now...has done a string of 1.48-1.49s

[Kenny Wigington]

If you have 8's, they will but they'd be better on 10's. Cool ride ! Hoosier in my opinion.

[1320racer]

agree on the 10" wheels as well Hoosier. No tubes.

As to will they work? Well that depends how well the chassis/suspension works now. If your car doesn't hook consistently now on marginal starting lines, work on it until it does, otherwise you're wasting your time and money.

Originally Posted by brent flynn

Thinkin its time to get a new set of rubber for my bird...since im wanting to build the stocker combo for it, i might as well try a set of radials(9x30)...
Wondering will they work ok on 8'' wheels that i have? They are welds.
Tubeless or no? Also, will they work ok even if i dont have trick springs in the front end to help with transfer? I will eventually have some springs in it, but it may be awhile. Are the Hoosiers the recommended tires? Part No.? Thanks for your replies, Brent

the car does 1.50 60fts now...has done a string of 1.48-1.49s

[brent flynn]

Originally Posted by 1320racer

agree on the 10" wheels as well Hoosier. No tubes.

As to will they work? Well that depends how well the chassis/suspension works now. If your car doesn't hook consistently now on marginal starting lines, work on it until it does, otherwise you're wasting your time and money.

the car is very consistent right now... with little Pheonix 28.5x9 slicks , it will do 1.50-1.51 all day... this is with a mild 455, footbrake, 8'' converter(4200), leaving at 2000... it has cal tracs... front suspension is stock, except for Comp Engineering shocks( i intend on trick springs in the future). I was more curious if they needed the trick springs to help make the tires work... i may just go with 9x30 Pheonix bias again, for now....not sure yet...

[Jeff Lee]

You didn't mention weight in the trunk. Most stickers have considerable weight back there; high and way back. That helps considerably with consistancy and even ET. I'd suggest you get it to work on a set of bias slicks first. Once your there, it will only get better with radials.
Don't forget 9" wide wheels are also an option.

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

You didn't mention weight in the trunk. Most stickers have considerable weight back there; high and way back.

Most stockers carry weight for the purpose of running a class other than the car's natural class.

That said, this car ain't a stocker yet, rather a bracket car and you'd have a hard time convincing most bracket racers that they need to add weight to hook.

While it will work, it's not need IF the chassis/suspension is setup correctly evident by my Chevelle which carried no additional weight/ballast, who's front to rear bias is 59%/41% of it's 3880lbs., runs on Hoosier radial slicks and will hook in a car wash.

[Steve Hayward]

Front shocks and bushings are where you should be paying your attention to.........

[Jeff Lee]

Originally Posted by 1320racer

Most stockers carry weight for the purpose of running a class other than the car's natural class.

That said, this car ain't a stocker yet, rather a bracket car and you'd have a hard time convincing most bracket racers that they need to add weight to hook.

While it will work, it's not need IF the chassis/suspension is setup correctly evident by my Chevelle which carried no additional weight/ballast, who's front to rear bias is 59%/41% of it's 3880lbs., runs on Hoosier radial slicks and will hook in a car wash.

THAT SAID...He asked for advice.
THAT SAID...He said he would like to move towards the car being in Stock Eliminator
THAT SAID...I offered friendly advice along the lines of his question.
THAT SAID...I have more experience than you do in the Class.
THAT SAID...Your Chevelle has an entirely different suspension than the Firebird in question and was not a even a Class car as the OP was asking about.
THAT SAID...He didn't ask about your OLD Chevelle. I'll bet he already knows about it!
THAT SAID...We get it. You don't!
THAT SAID...Go back to the mirror and repeat..."I'm wonderful, I'm special, and by-goly. I want the world to know"

[Todd Boyer]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

You didn't mention weight in the trunk. Most stickers have considerable weight back there; high and way back. That helps considerably with consistancy and even ET. I'd suggest you get it to work on a set of bias slicks first. Once your there, it will only get better with radials.
Don't forget 9" wide wheels are also an option.

THAT SAID: Not stirring the pot here Jeff, just curious about why to start with bias tires. Cost? Consistency? Easier to get a car to 'work' with bias tires than radials ?

[Monte Howard]

Change the front springs, they are cheap and easy. Then put the CO6 Hoosier 30/9 92.5 on it and run it,then start working on the chasis for your stock eliminator endeavor.
Start out with 20-22 lbs of PSI.