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#41 |
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Louisville , KY
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The cost depends on the combination and and how nice you want the car, plus how fast you want it to run. When we finished Andrew's car we had about 35k in it rolling. 7500 for paint and body work, 7500 at the chassis shop, 4500 for the car which was a rolling shell. Start adding up all the parts, wheels, tires, brakes, gauges , shifter , wiring , plumbing, fuel pump and regulator, new glass and it goes on. I put the car together and used a motor and trans that I already had. On second thought it was probably more than 35k.
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Greg Hill 4171 STK |
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#42 |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
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Just out of curiosity how far down the ladder are these cars gonna go? Will there be a dragpak or a cobra jet running u/sa soon? Is there a cutoff?
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#43 |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Lower Slower Delaware
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When deciding to build my own stocker did some looking around and picked up a good southwestern 3rd gen Camaro. It was a daily driver in need of some work off Ebay. Really good straight body in need of paint, no rust! The reason reason for choosing to build rather that purchase was mostly financial but supported by the ideas I had for the car would have me gutting it and doing a lot over any way.
Gutted the car, did all the dirty work on my own, assembled the car over a five year period on and off. What had to be done by others doubt could be done much cheaper. It pays to help friends, they help you. Tried to buy the right parts once, the best I could afford. Have not had to purchase the same part twice to upgrade. Bought what would help the car go fast. The first engine was a somewhat economical attempt without in depth knowledge of stocker engines but all good quality parts and machine work. Was a .60 under piece no matter how much it was flogged. Finally hooked up with the right people "and "opened my wallet". All told have at least $50K & 400-500 hours into the car. Building the car, getting it to the track, winning rounds and a few races has been very satisfying. The work is hard, the payoffs are few but "The Moments are Unforgettable", friendships and camaraderie are priceless!
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Frank Ferrucci I/SA 1271 "Be Thankful for the Gifts You are Given" |
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#44 |
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 199
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A fast 1.00 plus A-B auto/stick older car 55.
Dirk
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Dirk Olson 5036 STK |
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#45 |
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Join Date: Nov 2008
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Your biggest factor is if the car is built in Calif . add a huge budget just for paint alone ! its crazy what the EPA has done to the cost of Body and paint in California if you want a quality nice paint job….. you can't touch a good paint job in CA for under 10k
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Bob Aceves, 746 E/SA A&M motorsports |
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#46 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Lewistown, Montana
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#47 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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Rich Taylor I/SA - 321 |
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#48 |
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Join Date: Sep 2009
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We all race the cars we do for different reasons. I had a lower class car years ago. We ran R/SA. You might build and keep it running for less than some other combos because you don't have to worry about heads up in the eliminator. I being competitive as I am wanted to have the fastest one in the country. So I spent the money and worked hard and ended up with one of the faster ones. Then when it was time to sell it not many people wanted an R/SA wagon. Even though I spent the same money on the drive train that others did in higher class cars. Sold the car for about 1/2 what it would have been worth if it was a 69 Camaro. So the moral of this story for me was if I'm going to spend the money on the drive train I better put it something that has value body wise. Barry
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#49 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: On a hilltop in Pa.
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I can't say for sure but you probably started in R/SA because that's where your pocketbook and knowledge would let you get a start. We, as the elder statesmen (wow) in this sport need to try and convince young people that they don't NEED to start with a second under CC/SA car to get involved in Stock and SS or there soon isn't going to be a Stock and SS.
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Billy Nees 1188 STK, SS I'm not spending 100K to win 2K |
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#50 | |
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