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Old 11-09-2008, 02:42 PM   #1
Freddie
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Default Re: Motorhome help

The reason most RV dealers say not to pull over 5000# is the hitch system on most RV's are crap. If you can get it beefed up or supported it will hold fine. I have a 32' Coachman with the 460, it has the Banks exauhst kit on it, and the Banks cold air intake system, we haul a 30' Cargo Mate, with our 3000# Mustang, 4 wheeler, Jr. Dragster, tools, and all the other stuff needed to spend the weekend racing. Have not had any issues towing at all. All I did was re-enforce the hitch area of the motorhome, ours actually drives better towing than it does without.
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Old 11-09-2008, 03:15 PM   #2
Bob Verwold
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Default Re: Motorhome help

The E Z Go weighs 690 lbs dry. No help on the motor home as I use a tk.
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Old 11-09-2008, 04:05 PM   #3
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Default Re: Motorhome help

I have a 2005 30 foot Damon with the Ford V10. I tow a 28 foot Haulmark with my 3300# race car, golf cart, junior dragster, tools, parts, etc. Make sure you have the hitch reinforced. Also, I got a Trailer Toad last year and it makes a hugh difference. I travel about 17,000 miles a year with mine and have over 50,000 miles on it now. Motorhome pulls and stops fine.
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Old 11-11-2008, 09:29 PM   #4
craig addis
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Default Re: Motorhome help

I have been looking at c class motorhomes with ford v 10 and 4od trans .are the chassis not strong enough for a 28 ft trailer? I see very few of them at the races. There are tons of them for sale, but i wondered why noboby uses them. Thanks

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Old 11-12-2008, 07:35 AM   #5
Freddie
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Default Re: Motorhome help

big differance in chassis from the class C to the class A. A friend of ours uses a class C with his 24' trailer, and hates towing it anywhere, we used my motorhome to take hit trailer to a race not long ago, and he was amazed at how much better it towed.

His is now for sale also.
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Old 11-12-2008, 10:41 AM   #6
Dean Oliver
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Default Re: Motorhome help

I just bought a '07 Winnebago Class C 31' Outlook earlier this year. I use it to pull my open trailer, and I honestly cannot tell that it is back there. I talked at length with Marc LaBrecque at Diamond RV before I bought this unit and his advice was extremely helpful. The Winnebago units are truly better made motorhomes than many of the other brands that I looked at. Mine has a 215" wheelbase and has the rear air springs. This is my first motorhome, so I really don't have anything to compare it to but I have been pleased with how well it drives and with how it pulls the trailer. I plan on maybe boxing in the frame extensions at some point, but as Marc pointed out, it is probably not necessary with the Winnebago and my current trailer.

The only issue I have is, of course, with fuel mileage. It has the V10, and gets about 7 mpg or so without the trailer and about 6 mpg with it. Anyone have any suggestions on how to improve this? I usually drive about 67-68 mph with the engine turning about 2400-2500 rpm. I called Hypertech and they told me that they do not have a programmer for it yet, but they are working on it. I've heard good things about the Banks systems, but it seems like the payback would take forever.

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Old 11-12-2008, 11:25 AM   #7
Bill Harris
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Default Re: Motorhome help

I started out looking for a class C but found my way to a class A instead. Maybe I'm too anal, but I tend to pay attention to the mfg specifications and the class C chassis don't have enough GCWR to tow most enclosed racecar trailers. The F450 chassis has a GCWR of 20K lbs and most 26' to 32' class C's use up 14,500 of that in their own loaded weight (GVWR). You only have 5500 lbs of capacity for what you are towing. You might get away with an aluminum trailer and a really light racecar and get it down to 5500 lbs, but it's not likely. A trailer-toad would probably really help in this case. An open trailer might work pretty well.

The Ford class A chassis has a GCWR of 26K. I purposely looked for a short overall length with a long wheelbase and a fairly low GVWR to maximize the towing capacity.

I see quite a few Ford chassis class C's, even quite a few E350 chassis which only have a GCWR of 17,600 lbs, towing pretty substantial trailers, so it CAN be done. I wouldn't want to do it myself, however.
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Old 11-12-2008, 02:09 PM   #8
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Default Re: Motorhome help

I use a 2002 class A motorhome v10 to tow a 24 foot trailer with a s/st car and golf cart.Have had real good luck with it,hitch has extra braces and air bags.This year I bought a Trailer Toad and am very happy with it.Takes all the load off the coach, much better ride,took all the sway out when you pass or get passed by the big trucks.Worth looking at anyway. Trailer Toad ask for Jok 319-404-7001
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Old 11-10-2008, 06:06 PM   #9
Jason Oldfield
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Default Re: Motorhome help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddie View Post
it has the Banks exauhst kit on it, and the Banks cold air intake system
Was it worth it? I've been toying with the idea of putting a Banks system on my 454 RV for a couple of years. I'd love to hear a glowing review.

Also, I'll raise my hand as a guy with tranny issues as well. I've had no problem with the hitch area of my RV since the dealer reinforced it for me when I bought it. But, at about 35,000 miles it started showing signs of tranny issues, and it's on it's last legs now. I'll be taking this thing over to Competition Transmissions in the near future to have them make it bullet-proof for me.
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Old 11-10-2008, 06:56 PM   #10
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Default Re: Motorhome help

So, How about Distribution Bars, Would they help to prolong the life of the tranny ???? Just asking before i buy this kinda stuff
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