Dually Brakes?........

[Crisco]

Originally Posted by Rob Petrie E395

I run the titanium metalic by wagner on the front of my 98 K3500. I pull a 44' haulmark, I weight right at 24,000 total wieght and it has great stopping power. I work on a ton of these trucks as it seems every farmer around here has one. The one thing I have found is that after these trucks get around 100K on them the hydroboosters do not make as much pressure as they did originally often times creating less than expected braking capibility that is usually only noticable with a loaded trailer. If you are having trouble stopping start checking pressures and I think you will find a rebuilt booster will dramaticly improve braking when pulling a heavy trailer. I put about half dozen a year on and owners are always amazed how much better the truck stops afterwards. By the way if you do end up needing one the ones from O'riellys are the best value they are just as good as the ones from Napa and half the price usually around 150 my cost for a rebuilt unit. And as always make sure rear drum brakes are adjusted up you would not believe the number of trucks I see with stuck adjusters
Hope this helps
Rob

Wish I would have known that a long time ago about the booster.... Rob, do you see alot of warped rotors on these trucks?

[Rob Petrie E395]

Originally Posted by Crisco

Wish I would have known that a long time ago about the booster.... Rob, do you see alot of warped rotors on these trucks?

No on 2wd at least nothing that cant be machined out, yes on 4wd and almost always are so bad they need replaced to fix properly, I think it is because of the way they made the 4X4 setup not a good design in my opinion. bad part is on the 4wd you have to pull the whole hub/rotor assy and press it apart to change rotors its not a quick job by any means. The most common thing I see on these trucks both 3/4 and 1 tons is very few people check rear brake adjusters to make sure they are functioning properly and keeping the brakes adjusted. Second is bad boosters. As far as front end shimmy goes I have yet to see one of these trucks with over 50K that did not need a idler arm and pitman arm they are junk from the factory. Best solution that cures the problem is the moog problem solver parts a little bit higer than the standard stuff but they last. I put them on my truck at 45K now have close to 130K on it and they are still tight. Now if you want to really see a problem find a truck with warped rotors and loose idler/pitman arms hook a big load to the back and try and stop, it will almost jerk the wheel out of your hands. I have tried the Tow Truck valve. works a bit better for when you are towing a trailer But if you drive on snow or bad roads like we have around here in the winter time it can be a handfull because it seems to want to lock up the rears and try and make the truck swap ends. ( I took it back off mine for fear if I let someone else drive the truck it would get wrecked.