Attention Stock/Superstock competitors..

[Gary Evans]

Originally Posted by Jeff Stout

Time for a rule and a SFI brake peddle rod. LoL

Bickel makes a brake rod assembly with a snap ring and retaining plate. Well worth the money and effort to install

[CMcAllister]

Originally Posted by Gary Evans

Bickel makes a brake rod assembly with a snap ring and retaining plate. Well worth the money and effort to install

If you are in a hurry, or don't want to spend the money, we've made a similar deal by making a cup type piece the pushrod passes through, pinched under the MC flange, with a washer welded on the pushrod and captured inside the cup. I'll also typically make up a positive stop for the pedal as well.

[Billy Nees]

I made note of this "issue" and posted pictures in my build thread "Under the Index for Under a Grand".

[Dave Gantz]

Let me take this a bit further and ask, how does this become an issue?

Does something get inadvertently overlooked during the build, or a repair?

When these cars were new, pedal pushrods didn't fall out.

I believe the pushrod in some cars is captured in the master cylinder by design. Some have the type that snaps in, as Hacksaw mentioned above. In the latter case, can the driver's foot catch the bottom of the pedal and pull it out?

[Rory McNeil]

Originally Posted by Dave Gantz

Let me take this a bit further and ask, how does this become an issue?

Does something get inadvertently overlooked during the build, or a repair?

When these cars were new, pedal pushrods didn't fall out.

I believe the pushrod in some cars is captured in the master cylinder by design. Some have the type that snaps in, as Hacksaw mentioned above. In the latter case, can the driver's foot catch the bottom of the pedal and pull it out?

When these cars were new, they were not equipped with lightweight, aluminum, Mopar or aftermarket master cylinders, that lack the factory pushrod retention clip, to secure the brake pedal pushrod into the master cylinder piston.

[Gary Evans]

Originally Posted by Dave Gantz

Let me take this a bit further and ask, how does this become an issue?

Does something get inadvertently overlooked during the build, or a repair?

When these cars were new, pedal pushrods didn't fall out.

I believe the pushrod in some cars is captured in the master cylinder by design. Some have the type that snaps in, as Hacksaw mentioned above. In the latter case, can the driver's foot catch the bottom of the pedal and pull it out?

It happens when you use an aftermarket or mopar style master cylinder. A positive retention device such as I mentioned above is a must have Item. There should be no compromise on safety.

[Chevy55]

That happens on GM cars when using a power brake master on a manual brake setup because the recess on the master cylinder piston is shallow on power brake setup and deep on the manual brake setup.
Some aftermarket masters come with a piston spacer to be used only with a power brake booster.

[CMcAllister]

Originally Posted by Dave Gantz

Let me take this a bit further and ask, how does this become an issue?

Does something get inadvertently overlooked during the build, or a repair?

When these cars were new, pedal pushrods didn't fall out.

I believe the pushrod in some cars is captured in the master cylinder by design. Some have the type that snaps in, as Hacksaw mentioned above. In the latter case, can the driver's foot catch the bottom of the pedal and pull it out?

The rubber retainers did a reasonable job of keeping the pushrod in the MC piston. It is a one time use item. Once it's jerked out of the piston, it won't work. And they can be hard to find new.

Aftermarket pushrods are not usually made with the groove for the ring either.

Most of the time, the brake light switch, and brackets, are removed on race cars. That acted as a stop for the pedal in OE systems.

A hard leaving car can cause a pedal missing a stop to swing back far enough to pull an unretained pushrod out and let it fall down.

A new to you car, a car you borrow, a car in your shop, need to be looked at.

[Dave Gantz]

Originally Posted by CMcAllister

The rubber retainers did a reasonable job of keeping the pushrod in the MC piston. It is a one time use item. Once it's jerked out of the piston, it won't work. And they can be hard to find new.

Aftermarket pushrods are not usually made with the groove for the ring either.

Most of the time, the brake light switch, and brackets, are removed on race cars. That acted as a stop for the pedal in OE system.

This is what I'm getting at. Thanks, CMc.

I'm looking for a source for the retaining ring that you mention. I'll post my results.

I looked under the dash of my '74 Dart Sport, and I saw what you mention about the brake light switch bracket. It keeps the pedal from being pulled out of the MC.

I have an aluminum MC from Dr. Diff. It came with a new retainer ring.

When I installed the alum MC in my car (several years ago), I guess I saw that the pushrod is retained by the clip, and the brake light switch bracket. I didn't realize that when a Mopar style MC is installed in something other than a Mopar (or a Mopar without the brake light switch and bracket), it could be installed in a manner that would allow the pushrod to fall out. (Or the driver's foot could inadvertently lift the pedal out of the retaining ring if the brake light switch and bracket were removed on a Mopar.)

I hope I'm being clear. I'm not a technical writer, for sure, lol. I was in a street car years ago that lost it's single MC. The driver made a valiant effort using the E-brake and avoiding obstacles until a telephone pole ended our ride. One passenger lost an eye, one had a collapsed lung, I had a back injury that piled on to other back problems my physical working career created.

EDIT: Here's a link to Dr. Diff. They have it, and also Detroit Muscle Technologies has it. https://www.doctordiff.com/manual-br...r-grommet.html

[Dave Gantz]

This might be for Mopars only, but here's a picture. The retaing ring is simply refered to as a "ring".