U/SA 302 ffffford build

[Mark Yacavone]

First reply..Surely not the last LOL

With the style of uppers you have, you just about have to have the right spacing on the housing. You did miss an opportunity to make or buy adjustable heim end uppers.
Yes, you can raise the uppers on the housing. Moser's 12 bolt Chevelle rears are built that way.
I'm thinking you might have joined together two dissimilar metals on the housing though.
Not certified, but I've run a few beads in my life, so far. Might check that.

[goinbroke2]

The control arms were just to get it on the track, at some point I'll be getting adjustable uppers and perhaps go heim joints as well, good idea.

As far as the dissimilar metals, you are correct and I was thinking about that, but I did it anyway, lol. I do a lot of off roading (that's my youtube channel "low range in nova scotia" and I gob together all kinds of crap and then abuse it until it breaks). Not supposed to weld cast iron (what the rear end ears are made of) so there might be "improvements" in the future, especially if it cracks or breaks.

[Billy Nees]

You really need an 8.8!

[Jeff Stout]

Originally Posted by Billy Nees

You really need an 8.8!

This. 8.8 is way better for you application

[Rory McNeil]

Originally Posted by Jeff Stout

This. 8.8 is way better for you application

Gotta agree, not to mention it`s a straight bolt in, and should be pretty easy to find a 8.8 from a 5.0 Mustang, which came with 8.8s starting in 1986, and were the same thru 1993. The only real place a 9" is better for something like this, is a wider assortment of ratios to choose from. With the 8.8, unless things have changed in recent years, there is nothing between 4.88 and 5.14, and then nothing again until 5.71. On my 85 Mustang M/S, I ran both the 4.88s and 5.14s, with 29 and 29 1/2" tall tires, with the 2 barrel deal, 28s or 26" tall tires would be an easy way to dial in the ratio/tire diameter combination. As for strength, you will never hurt the 8.8, my M/S 85 Mustang was a stick car, leaving at 6000-6200 RPM, with cheap Moser 31 spline axles, and even with my 331 bracket engine (10.2@ 129 MPH, with mid 1.3 60 foots, dropping the clutch at 62-6600 RPM), I never hurt the rearend. That said, we did weld the axle tubes to the cast center, and made braces to go from the casting to the ends of the axle tubes. Heck, even the stock 7.5 rearend that should be in the car already, would likely hold up with the 2 barrel automatic combo, not sure what the ratio selection for those is, however. For a set of cheap, easy to buy, "off the shelf" headers, I had Hedman long tubes on my street Fairmont years ago, with 1 1/2" primaries, which would be a great place to start for something like that. The 85 4 barrel combo is a pretty decent one, but stick only, is that bothers you, but with the current HP ratings, the 2 barrel is a GREAT combo, as would be the 82 "5.0 HO" 2 barrel deal, which has a larger cam and carb, but again, is a stick only deal. The heads on all the 78 thru 85 Ford 302/5.0 engines are the same 2 barrel, or 4 barrel, although the 85s do have a different casting number, but are identical, other than being relieved at the lower flange, to allow the longer roller lifters used in 85, to be removed and installed with the heads in place.

[Billy Nees]

Rory, I was hoping that you would respond.

[Mark Yacavone]

The 8.8's are still around, but they've gone up considerably since the one I bought in 2007. Probably local would be best, if you live in a populated area. I wouldn't want to pay shipping on one.
Supposedly ,Yukon gear made a 5.14 for the 7.5, never actually saw one that's available. I agree that it would probably hold up behind a 302, 2 bbl , 3" stroke, 3000# combo.

[goinbroke2]

Originally Posted by Billy Nees

Rory, I was hoping that you would respond.

I have already been pestering him at the track this summer. (and every other S/SS guy the maritimes) I have to remember that I have two ears and one mouth though. (story of my life, HA!!)

Edit: and I have to read the 2023 rule book, it appears my 1997 rule book is no longer accurate.

[Henrys Toy]

Originally Posted by goinbroke2

The control arms were just to get it on the track, at some point I'll be getting adjustable uppers and perhaps go heim joints as well, good idea.

As far as the dissimilar metals, you are correct and I was thinking about that, but I did it anyway, lol. I do a lot of off roading (that's my youtube channel "low range in nova scotia" and I gob together all kinds of crap and then abuse it until it breaks). Not supposed to weld cast iron (what the rear end ears are made of) so there might be "improvements" in the future, especially if it cracks or breaks.

Good morning to all,
Welding cast iron is dicey at best, like hitting a piece of glass with a hammer. I'm thinking you should be able to fabricate what you need out of steel and make it look like the OEM pieces, then weld them to rear axel housing. One thing I've found over the years of trying to fuse cast iron is either the weld doesn't penetrate and breaks off or or the part ( cast iron ) you've welded cracks and breaks. Either of these situations are an accident looking to happen ! We're supposed to be having "fun" not getting ourselves hurt, then also factor in the cost of the Broken Parts Replacement and I think you'll find that building the right parts - the right way will actually be money well spent, the first time.
I'm really enjoying your U/SA 302 FFFFFFord build. Don't take this as a discouragement, this comes from "past experience" and the expense of replacement parts. I understand you'd like to get this project to conclusion but don't rush it. Enjoy your build.

Respectfully,
Henry Kunz 1534 H/SA