Mopar Performance P3690731 voltage regulator

[Greg Gay]

Steve,

I was doing my search for VR-706 correctly; I just transposed the numbers in the reply. I have searched all over and can't find the Wells regulator. Autozone lists one, but when I try to purchase it, it says "store closed". I called the Autozone about 20 miles away, and he couldn't locate on. When I told him the story above, he said "That's what they post when the no longer stock it." I have friends searching all over New England. One person came up with a Duralast VR-706, supposedly made by Wells. Is this the same thing? Now that I know a top quality unit exists, I want the good one.

Thanks,

Greg

[Rod Greene]

Originally Posted by GTX JOHN

Greg: I believe that # is "Constant Charge" voltage regulator is a race piece.

If you drive it on the street for extended periods of time...It will severely

shorten the life of the battery. It inputs full output of the alternator's

available amps into the battery and literally boil it to Death after a period

of time on the road!

I used one on my 440 powered Ski Boat worked good for all the starts and stops. It is currently in use on my engine run stand over 40 years old and going strong.

[Steve Stasko]

Originally Posted by Greg Gay

Steve,

I was doing my search for VR-706 correctly; I just transposed the numbers in the reply. I have searched all over and can't find the Wells regulator. Autozone lists one, but when I try to purchase it, it says "store closed". I called the Autozone about 20 miles away, and he couldn't locate on. When I told him the story above, he said "That's what they post when the no longer stock it." I have friends searching all over New England. One person came up with a Duralast VR-706, supposedly made by Wells. Is this the same thing? Now that I know a top quality unit exists, I want the good one.

Thanks,

Greg

Yes, get the Duralast. I forgot they changed the "box" on them. It was a Wells when I bought mine.

[Greg Gay]

Thanks again for all of the help. I picked up the Duralast regulator today. It appears that the previsous owner must have had some problems with the factory wiring and rewired some things. Still trying to figure out what he did. One question: I have read several opinions on the Mopar electronic ignition installed in older cars, and they all state it a different way. It seems to come down to this: if you use a 2 post ballast resistor, don't use the green wire (location #3 on the ECU connector). If you use a 4 post ballast resistor, the green wire goes to the "run" side of the 4 post ballast resistor. Is that accurate?

Greg

[Steve Stasko]

Originally Posted by Greg Gay

Thanks again for all of the help. I picked up the Duralast regulator today. It appears that the previsous owner must have had some problems with the factory wiring and rewired some things. Still trying to figure out what he did. One question: I have read several opinions on the Mopar electronic ignition installed in older cars, and they all state it a different way. It seems to come down to this: if you use a 2 post ballast resistor, don't use the green wire (location #3 on the ECU connector). If you use a 4 post ballast resistor, the green wire goes to the "run" side of the 4 post ballast resistor. Is that accurate?

Greg

I am using the two post resistor, and am not using the green wire.

I bought a new engine harness for my car a few years ago from Evans Wiring. It was $115 and pre-wired for the electronic ignition. It's something to consider if your harness is too far gone.