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#21 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,128
Likes: 1,084
Liked 184 Times in 113 Posts
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Go Pure Stock...
Quicker cars are Corvette, GTO, Mustang, Camaros mid 11s and 12's Or a heavy car like my Impala SS high 12's low 13's I can drive mine on the street by putting the street tires back on.. In fact drove the car to all the races changing tires to go racing. Just has to be 2005 or older. Some people have barn finds that are in great condition. Figure about $25k - $ 30k including purchasing the car. The real cost of racing is getting to the track and home. Tow vehicle, trailer, motel, food, frustration ![]() Wonder how much it cost to go 9.96 in D/SA...damn ! Dan Last edited by Dan Fahey; 07-31-2017 at 02:44 PM. |
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#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 619
Likes: 312
Liked 691 Times in 199 Posts
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Forget what they all said, build the car you want to have............Don't keep track of the $$$ and don't tell the wife what anything cost.
Then have fun! Last edited by Mike Gray; 07-31-2017 at 02:45 PM. |
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#23 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,168
Likes: 487
Liked 346 Times in 126 Posts
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I completely agree. I started my 67 cuda project trying to build it on a budget, a real tight budget. But taking on this project is forcing me to do mechanic work, I have never done before. It has become not only a fun project but a learning experience. I dedicate about $500 to $600 a month to it. If it takes two to three years to do, and it is done right, i can be proud that I created this car.
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#24 |
VIP Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Shelby, NC
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 2,171
Liked 2,354 Times in 554 Posts
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I am with these guys. Half the fun is setting goals and learning new tricks.
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#25 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Arizona, Texan forever
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 879
Liked 574 Times in 212 Posts
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I did that....had to convince her that the tax benefits with our LLC paid for everything. "Why pay the government when we can build a race car and advertise our business." About 100k later she figured it out.......I still have cast iron skillet scars on my head...lol
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Gary Hansen - SS/FA 4911, B/SA 4911 Last edited by SStockDart; 07-31-2017 at 10:40 PM. |
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#26 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Kennedale,Tx
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
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I had pretty much quit working on it because the dealer dropped the ball getting my registration and title transfer done. Looks like that's straightened out now. I still have to replace the window motors and a couple cosmetic issues. After it's done if I can't sell it for at least what I have in it,or trade it for something cool, I may go for it. Maybe the first year,just do the rearend, suspension, wiring,wheels, tires,etc . The pure stock deal sounds fun for now but I'm worried if the rearend will survive.
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#27 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,168
Likes: 487
Liked 346 Times in 126 Posts
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how about in the beginning just build it into a nice bracket car and let it evolve
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#28 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,168
Likes: 487
Liked 346 Times in 126 Posts
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multiple post
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#29 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Kennedale,Tx
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
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#30 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
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The pure stock deal is not hard to do at all. Depending on weight if im not mistaken an lt1 fbody can run D/PS. With a very small amount of work you should be able to run under that index to at least get you out there and racing. There are very few pure stockers in our area anyway so a heads up is a pretty slim chance. You really wont need to mess with the suspension too much to make it work, and the stock 10 bolt is a lot stronger than people give it credit for.
Holler if you have any questions, i've looked at about every option you are currently looking at in the last year with mine. I haven't spent a ton of money on mine and i've qualified mid pack at each race so far being 150 pounds heavy in C/PS. |
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