Project " Preparation H "...preparing a 2005 Mustang GT

[ALMACK]

I had a set back with getting an appointment with my welder, so I lost a week. In the meantime I was buying as much used parts as I could to keep the costs down.

Luckily for me, the 2005-2009 GT parts are getting cheaper because alot of guys are stepping up to the 2011-2014 Coyote Mustang GT and selling off their 3 valve stuff.

I got a hardly used JLT series 3 Cold Air Intake for $ 150.00 delivered around the same time I bought the wheel studs. Super nice condition. They sell for $ 240 new plus shipping.
I had to get my CAI before I could order my tuner because they need to know what type of CAI you are using before they can program the tuner.





No discount on the X4 tuner. Everybody pretty much sells them for the same price. Besides, this was one item I had no interest in buying as a used item.

[ALMACK]

So my day at the welder came. Everything went perfect. All the planning and prep work paid off.

From the time the car went into his shop until I drove out was 2 1/2 hours.
Everything fitted perfect and I was super happy there were not any burn marks on the interior panels.
He had done alot of roll bar installations before, so he had all the right protective equipment.

These pics were taken the day after the welding was done, and within 24 hours of getting back from his shop, the interior was all back in the car.







I had the passenger side seat belt tabs welded on while there so in the future they will be there when I drive this car on the street.




Trunk area rear bar mounts







I found this at Lowes and really like this paint. Goes on nice and is great on touch ups as it blends well with the existing paint. Plus, that satin look is my favorite look for a roll bar.

[ALMACK]

When it came time for the seat belt installation, I had to fab up a h.d. 1/2 inch bolt bracket for the belt on the trans tunnel side. (I used the factory seat belt bolt hole on the door side)

The factory seat belts anchor to the seat. The 3 inch racing belts need to be alot better than that.

So I took a piece of 1/4 in. steel plate and bent it to the shape of the floor. Then I welded a 1/4 inch bolt to the plate to help hold the assembly to the floor.

The grade-8 1/2 inch bolt is captured by the welded tab on the backside. This prevents the 1/2 bolt from turning when I tighten down the nut. No welding on the grade 8 bolt means no loss of strength.





Here is a shot from under the car after installation:

[ALMACK]

Wrapping up the interior:

[ALMACK]

The last item to install for Stock Eliminator (that is required) is the fuel sampling valve.

I debated between this device and hacking up the factory fuel line and install a "T" fitting.

In the end I splurged and spent 35 bucks for the Metco piece. It mounts between the fuel pressure sensor and the fuel rail.
It has (2) 1/8 pipe ports so later I can install a fuel pressure gauge.
Then I purchased a 1/4 turn ball valve off of e-bay for 10 bucks and the 1/8th pipe to 3/16 brake line fitting at the local auto parts store.



I had a piece of brake line laying around so I bent it to exit the fuel where the sampling cup can easily get to. (Please excuse the dust on the engine. I did not have the time to give the engine a bath before I had to go)





I use a worm clamp to prevent the handle on the valve from vibrating to the open position.

[ALMACK]

The car's looks came next.
That jacked up look had to go...

So I ordered a set of $ 89.00 BMR springs with my Summit discount code.
They advertise them as 1.5 in. lowering springs and they lowered my car exactly 1.5 in.

[ALMACK]

And this is the final look before I added all the window decals and headed to Indy:



The very last item was to flush out all the 93 octane pump fuel from the tank as well as replace the fuel filter before adding the VP C-11.
I had to remove the back seat and gain access to the pump hat on the drivers side.
Luckily for me the passenger side tank does not work. The drivers side is supposed to pull fuel from the pass. side, but this car was not doing that. Works in my favor because the most fuel I will put into it is 5 gallons.





I went old school with the Mustang to Indy. (open trailer)

If there is one downside to this body style it is the shear size of the car.
I cannot look out the window and see the front tire.

The problem with this car is that with the skinnies on the front makes it so wide I cannot drive the car onto the trailer safely without risking hit the fenders.

So...I had to take the front wheels off and put the stock wheels on in order to safely load the car on the trailer.

Eventually I will buy a h.d. winch and winch it onto a trailer so that I can leave the skinnies on all the time.