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#41 |
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Kirk is correct, there is no substitute for genuine OE sensors. I will not use cheap aftermarket crap, it's nothing but trouble. Most systems use easy to find GM parts. Rock Auto usually has them.
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Alan Roehrich 212A G/S |
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#42 |
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John, you should see no change in the reference voltage to the MAP sensor with it plugged in. You should have 5 volt in (reference) low reference (ground) and your signal back to the ECU. Just for grins can you back out your signal wire leaving only the 5 volt and ground wires and retest by plugging MAP back in and see if voltage drops, just to make sure the feed back wire isn't shorted to ground somehow, be it actually touching ground or an issue in the ECU itself. Of course test resistence on the ground circuit from sensor plug to ground, not sure if that would be chassis ground or ECU provided.Other than that are you certain the MAP sensor is pinned correctly? My bet is that the MAP sensor is incorrectly wired. As alot of systems use the GM type 1 BAR MAP sensor the correct pinout would be A-ground B-signal C- 5 volt reference.
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Joe Buchanan SS/BX 3117 Last edited by buzzinhalfdozen; 04-15-2015 at 11:13 AM. |
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#43 |
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Location: Grosse Ile Mi.
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We did not change the wiring on the MAP connector. But I will test as suggested.
I just started it again with the old MAP sensor and let it idle until it warmed up. It idles smooth as silk and slowly accelerating the engine went to 2500 and started coughing and sputtering. I am scheduling an appointment with a local tuner (Watson Engineering). I spoke with the guy there today who does the FAST installations and tuning. He said he will perform the diagnosis to determine if the issue is in the sensors or the ECU. They are a top notch shop and 5 miles away. He has the appropriate testing tools to perform the tests suggested by the guys on here. I appreciate all the help thus far.... I'll update the thread when I have new information. I'm preparing my CFO (wife) for a potential new engine management system...... Thanks, John |
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#44 |
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John, just a thought, have you tried running the motor with the alternator disconnected?
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#45 |
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Jimmy, Yes it is currently disconnected.
Thanks |
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#46 |
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Get a FAST system if the ECU has a weak driver, which is what I suspect is the problem.
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA |
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#47 |
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After every possible test I could run, tonight I pulled the ECU out of the car to send it to an Accel Service tech in Alabama. When I talked to him, I said I had a spare non crank trigger ECU that I would send along for parts etc. It occurred to me that the low voltage issues were happening on circuits that were likely independent of the crank trigger. So, I plugged the spare in and the low voltage problem went away.5.1V with a fully charged 16 V battery.
Thanks to Alan and a few others for being diligent about tracking this down. The good news is I believe we have the true root cause. The TBD news is can we get one good ECU out of the 2 on their way to Alabama. I'll update when I get more info. Likely sometime next week. Thanks again for all the input. John |
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#48 |
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That would be the weak driver in the ECU I mentioned.
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA |
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#49 |
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Ed, That's correct. I appreciate your input in identifying this issue.
Given your experience with these cars, do you feel the weak driver was the sole contributor or could there still be a possibility the rotor phasing is an issue as well ? Thanks |
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#50 |
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John I was unable to find the accell unit I had , sorry but I'm sure you are on the right track . Mike
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