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#1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Texarkana Ark/TX
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John, If your block was prepared (bored and honed) with regular head bolts or bolts in the Torque plates you might create problems with cylinder sealing when you install head studs. Head studs distort a block differently than head bolts. there is a fundamental difference in how a stud anchors and a bolt climbs an inclined thread pitch. If you want to use Head studs put them in and have the block honed with them. It is SOP at my shop to prepare the cylinder bores with the Torque plates and the type fastener that is going to be used. Studs with Studs and bolts with bolts. another issue with studs is they require a dead flat interface with the head and block deck. If your heads have any uncorrected angle mill in them the bolts will self align slightly in the thread clearance, studs don't and are not forgiving. Installing studs correctly is not just a matter of screwing them in and tighten them up. Same goes for main bearing studs vs bolts. Whatever you are attempting to gain with studs might have a negative in cylinder/ring seal.
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Adger Smith (Former SS) |
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#2 |
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Adger is correct, of course. Patterson has me bring the same gasket and actual head bolts & washers I'm going to use when they hone mine. Bad enough getting the heads off one of these 4th gen F body cars with bolts. I'm too old to fight studs too, at least in an iron block. I have run several engines both ways over the years, and if the block is prepped correctly, mine have always run the same with either fastener.
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Grosse Ile Mi.
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Thanks for the information.
Since this engine was originally built in the pre- stud era, I will assume it was bored/honed with bolts in the plate. Based on your comments, I'll likely just go the bolt route for honing and assembly. Saves a few bucks also. Thanks John |
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