to vacuum pump, or not to vacuum pump, that is the question?

Greg Barsamian · 10-01-2007, 10:46 AM

Check out the "specials" at: www.Kayeracingproducts.com

They sell an electric vaccume pump kit that pulls 5-7 inches of vaccume.
We ran it on our small-block last year, and we run it on the Big-block this year.
Keeps the milk & moisture to a minimum.

Just what your looking for!

Mike Hedger · 10-01-2007, 12:46 PM

I put my pump on 5 years ago and the car picked up 1.5 MPH with the rings I had been running without the pump on gas. I gas ported and used a low tension ring and put the moter on alcohol and it picked up 23 HP more than without the pump and the old ring package on gas. So I don't see where I have waisted my money at all. It also has no water in the valve covers when you pull them off where as before the water in the valvecovers was bad even on gas. (I live in a high humidity area so this does not help) So what I am saying is, I would not run a car on either fuel without one but that is just me.

SC1448 · 10-01-2007, 03:14 PM

I switched from gas to alcohol injection (Terminator) this year and I love it. One thing nobody's mentioned here is using a primer system. I start mine on gas, warm it to about 160 then switch to alky. No more starting troubles at all. I also switch back and forth to make regulating the engine and oil temperatures easier. If I need a few degrees of heat for whatever the reason, I just shut off the alky and turn on the primer then vice-versa when it gets to where I want it. At the end of the day, turn the primer on again, run it up to about 200 degrees then shut it down and let it cook. The oil looks just fine. (I'll try to remember pulling the breathers next time though...) The other big thing is, $5.50 / gal. for C-14 vs. about $150.00 / drum for alky & $2.50 / gal. for pump gas? Do the math.
-Don

BIZMANRACING · 10-01-2007, 07:45 PM

a question about that electric vacuume pump. if it pulls 5-7 in of vacuume. why doesn't everybody use it?

the cost seems to be alot less at 500 vice the belt drivien ones which take you around 700-800 soup to nuts. why isn't everybody saleing there belt drivien pump, to get the electric piece. also, where has this tech been all these years. what do the pro stock guys use? in other words whats the bonus with going with the electric.

carlos mendes
s/st 1739

Greg Barsamian · 10-02-2007, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIZMANRACING

a question about that electric vacuume pump. if it pulls 5-7 in of vacuume. why doesn't everybody use it?

the cost seems to be alot less at 500 vice the belt drivien ones which take you around 700-800 soup to nuts. why isn't everybody saleing there belt drivien pump, to get the electric piece. also, where has this tech been all these years. what do the pro stock guys use? in other words whats the bonus with going with the electric.

carlos mendes
s/st 1739

I can't answer that Carlos, however for us it works.
There's no mandrel's pully's or pumps up front to worry about!
We just drain the tank & get most of the moisture out!
Got Milk?

Jim Scott · 10-04-2007, 08:58 AM

I haven't had any luck with the GM electric smog pumps. I've used both the old Lt/LS1 (395.00) and the new S10 (550.00). They do draw 5-7" of vacuum at idle, but not down track. They worked well as a evac system..(not for power gain).for a while. Less than a season. I've been running them for 3 years but I am going to a belt driven for reliability.

They do make a bad azz electric pump that uses Dewalt 24 volt battery packs...but they are over a grand.The parasitic loss from a belt drive is very small...if your on alcohol or your running low tension rings, it's hard to beat a good belt system.

BIZMANRACING · 10-04-2007, 09:57 AM

THANKS JIM, for you views. if i understand you correctly. its read to me as if the pump pulls the vacuum at rest or going to and from the lanes. so the world famous 20 extra HP dosen't apply. but, it will "suck" the moisture out of your oil and could be used as a nice tool prior to putting the car away after a day of racing.

would that be correct?

assumming your answer is yes. then i think i have no choice but to deal with the economics and trouble assoiciated with a belt drivien pump. not so much for the horsepower gains. but to help it live longer. since it seems that my engine builder did put low tension rings in this deal with gas ported pistons.

so thanks to all to gave there input. now all i need to do is go make some money. i guess about 1000 will do it. includes pump, pully, mandral, the the world famous and might i add expensive, braided hose and fittings.

carlos mendes
s/st 1739

10-01-2007, 10:46 AM	#1
Greg Barsamian VIP Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Central Massachusetts Posts: 1,401 Likes: 723 Liked 426 Times in 97 Posts	Re: to vacuum pump, or not to vacuum pump, that is the question? Check out the "specials" at: www.Kayeracingproducts.com They sell an electric vaccume pump kit that pulls 5-7 inches of vaccume. We ran it on our small-block last year, and we run it on the Big-block this year. Keeps the milk & moisture to a minimum. Just what your looking for!

10-01-2007, 12:46 PM	#2
Mike Hedger Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Kemah TX Posts: 93 Likes: 0 Liked 1 Time in 1 Post	Re: to vacuum pump, or not to vacuum pump, that is the question? I put my pump on 5 years ago and the car picked up 1.5 MPH with the rings I had been running without the pump on gas. I gas ported and used a low tension ring and put the moter on alcohol and it picked up 23 HP more than without the pump and the old ring package on gas. So I don't see where I have waisted my money at all. It also has no water in the valve covers when you pull them off where as before the water in the valvecovers was bad even on gas. (I live in a high humidity area so this does not help) So what I am saying is, I would not run a car on either fuel without one but that is just me. __________________ Mike Hedger S/C 4646 MPH Racing and Fabrication

10-01-2007, 03:14 PM	#3
SC1448 Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Southampton, PA Posts: 226 Likes: 5 Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Re: to vacuum pump, or not to vacuum pump, that is the question? I switched from gas to alcohol injection (Terminator) this year and I love it. One thing nobody's mentioned here is using a primer system. I start mine on gas, warm it to about 160 then switch to alky. No more starting troubles at all. I also switch back and forth to make regulating the engine and oil temperatures easier. If I need a few degrees of heat for whatever the reason, I just shut off the alky and turn on the primer then vice-versa when it gets to where I want it. At the end of the day, turn the primer on again, run it up to about 200 degrees then shut it down and let it cook. The oil looks just fine. (I'll try to remember pulling the breathers next time though...) The other big thing is, $5.50 / gal. for C-14 vs. about $150.00 / drum for alky & $2.50 / gal. for pump gas? Do the math. -Don

10-01-2007, 07:45 PM	#4
BIZMANRACING Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: east brunswick, new jersey Posts: 62 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: to vacuum pump, or not to vacuum pump, that is the question? a question about that electric vacuume pump. if it pulls 5-7 in of vacuume. why doesn't everybody use it? the cost seems to be alot less at 500 vice the belt drivien ones which take you around 700-800 soup to nuts. why isn't everybody saleing there belt drivien pump, to get the electric piece. also, where has this tech been all these years. what do the pro stock guys use? in other words whats the bonus with going with the electric. carlos mendes s/st 1739

10-04-2007, 08:58 AM	#6
Jim Scott Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: United States Posts: 14 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: to vacuum pump, or not to vacuum pump, that is the question? I haven't had any luck with the GM electric smog pumps. I've used both the old Lt/LS1 (395.00) and the new S10 (550.00). They do draw 5-7" of vacuum at idle, but not down track. They worked well as a evac system..(not for power gain).for a while. Less than a season. I've been running them for 3 years but I am going to a belt driven for reliability. They do make a bad azz electric pump that uses Dewalt 24 volt battery packs...but they are over a grand.The parasitic loss from a belt drive is very small...if your on alcohol or your running low tension rings, it's hard to beat a good belt system. __________________ Jim Scott 702V ET/SG/Sst Bigjimzlll

10-04-2007, 09:57 AM	#7
BIZMANRACING Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: east brunswick, new jersey Posts: 62 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: to vacuum pump, or not to vacuum pump, that is the question? THANKS JIM, for you views. if i understand you correctly. its read to me as if the pump pulls the vacuum at rest or going to and from the lanes. so the world famous 20 extra HP dosen't apply. but, it will "suck" the moisture out of your oil and could be used as a nice tool prior to putting the car away after a day of racing. would that be correct? assumming your answer is yes. then i think i have no choice but to deal with the economics and trouble assoiciated with a belt drivien pump. not so much for the horsepower gains. but to help it live longer. since it seems that my engine builder did put low tension rings in this deal with gas ported pistons. so thanks to all to gave there input. now all i need to do is go make some money. i guess about 1000 will do it. includes pump, pully, mandral, the the world famous and might i add expensive, braided hose and fittings. carlos mendes s/st 1739