Dragster maintenance

[Keith 944]

look underneath does it have scrape marks, these things can hit the surface a lot! check for cracks! at our track last night a dragster broke in half at the finish line. again look for cracks at all welds and attachment points.

[Tweaker]

this thread is good as I will be soon doing the same looking for a used turn key dragster.

What else is good to look for and check? What was provided so far is great. When looking for turn key what else can be checked with the motor n such to try to insure it doesn't blow up on the first pass and to make sure I'm not buying some guys weak motor/trans in his TK car. Does anyone down here live in FL I could use a mentor for moving to a rail.

[Bill Baer]

Tweaker

I would suggest that if you buying it turn key that you request to see it make a pass if the car has good MPH the motor is probably OK but there are no guarantees I have seen brand new stuff break on the dyno before ever leaving the shop!
As far a mentor goes I’m in Illinois and Chris is in Washington State so the only help we can offer you is by phone or internet but if you have any more specific questions, I (and probably Chris) will try to help you.
I would suggest that you stick to the more popular (chevy) stuff as it’s cheaper and more readily available than Ford or Mopar performance stuff. (But if ya gotta have a something different well that your preference, just keep in mind it may cost a little more.)
You also might want to look in the NHRA rule book there are a bunch of SFI standards that the car and your protective equipment need to meet and most have expiration dates.
Some of these include the Chassis, the seat belts the Trans shield, the flex plate shield, the flex plate, Balancer your clothing, your helmet, your gloves the hydro test date on the co2 bottle.
If you going to a driving school ask if it’s possible to get a physical first and get your license passes done at the school.

[Greg Barsamian]

Ryan Ondrejko's dragster is for sale turn-key! Ready to GO!

[Chris Williams]

Originally Posted by Bill Baer

As far a mentor goes I’m in Illinois and Chris is in Washington State so the only help we can offer you is by phone or internet but if you have any more specific questions, I (and probably Chris) will try to help you.

All good advice, Bill. And yes, I'm happy to help, as much as someone from the farthest possible point from Florida in the contiguous US can help

[Tweaker]

Thanks a lot guys the information is very helpful. I appreciate it. I wish you guys lived close! lol

[Tweaker]

What is it like every two seasons or so you need to refresh the motor?

[Bill Baer]

Tweaker

Well yea, if you don't have any problems somewhere between 250-300 passes I usually leak it down and if it leaks less than 10% it's fine.
I do however check the valve lash and valve spring seat pressures, change the oil and check the oil filter every 15-20 passes.
I also keep a close eye on MPH if it's off more that 2-3 MPH I start checking things
(Fuel filter, fuel pressure, ignition timing, valve lash/springs and if I'm real nervous I take the oil filter apart and check it for bearing materials)
The motor in the car has ~120 passes on it and the one I pulled out had ~300 and I need to freshen it (i.e. new: valves ,valve springs, roller lifters, pistons, rods and depending on the magnaflux inspection, maybe the crank).

Note this is based upon a steel connecting rod, stainless steel valve motors that I turn >7500 usually 7200 I wouldn't trust aluminum connecting rods for more than ~ 100 passes, less than that if you drive the motor down in the shutdown area.

[chevy620]

I would guess there are probably 50 used dragsters you could buy just in FLorida.
You have several of the best dragster chassis shops only a few hours from you. Phantom, Mullis, Undersover, Miller Race Cars. Those guys know the cars, what to look for, etc.
I would stay with a quality name, let the owner show you his log books and ABSOLUTLEY raise the car up, take the tin off and look at the tubing where the uprights are attached and everywhere around the motor plates. Rod ends should be tight with quality bolts.

Sit in car, get in and out with fire jacket and pants and be sure you take a helmet. Last thiing to ever buy is a car that is too small to be comfortable getting in and out of 30 times a day. If you don't fit good you won;t race good.

Plenty of nice cars for sale right now in $15K to $20K range with under 400 runs on them.

Good luck in joing the "piperack brigade".

Jok

[Bmack]

Thanks