H-I-J '76 Nova re-fit.

[Glenn Hayes]

Todd,
I'm so sorry to read of all the issues this engine is producing, you are a trooper. Where does one go as of now?

Wishing you all the best,
Glenn

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by Glenn Hayes

Todd,
I'm so sorry to read of all the issues this engine is producing, you are a trooper. Where does one go as of now?

Wishing you all the best,
Glenn

I think I found 2 good blocks local to me, I'll pick them up Monday and order a new crank to get started.

[Rich Biebel]

Todd if your going to stick with a stock block I would look for a 4 bolt with nodular caps.

That's probably not going to be easy to find nor does it insure its a real good block cylinder wall thickness-wise.....and it still needs a lot of prep work

I know its expensive but a Bowtie or an aftermarket, legal block is a far better choice....

[Glenn Briglio]

Check out the Dart shp block.

[Larry Hill]

Check the new blocks before you send them off. The main bearing housing bore might surprise you. "If it ain't broke don't fix it"

[Greg Reimer 7376]

I like the Dart block I bought for my Chevelle.It's quite thick, rather heavy, but nothing I could do to it would hurt it,barring a broken rod or something. You've had the crank checked and done so many times it probably isn't the problem, check and use i again if it's a steel crank. The production GM 350 blocks tended to be thin,sometimes you go through a lot of them before you find one with no core shift or thin places where it needs to be thick.It sounds like something is structurally weak in the block you have been using, something obviously moves when you torque it down if the results keep changing. Einstein said that the definition of insanity is when you try the same thing over and over expecting different results. This block sounds like you constantly try the right thing the same way each time, and different results keep popping up. Something is moving around and giving you different results each time. It could be a hidden crack, a soon to be crack, or some type of metallurgical flaw.It could result in disaster. Also, 4 speed cars are harder on a lot of things, the Dart block might be what's required to keep the cylinders round, the decks flat,and the main bearing line bores straight. The NHRA approved parts list has the correct part number for that block, and Summit ships them right to your porch.

[Greg Reimer 7376]

The NHRA legal replacement part number for a 4 inch bore SBC with a 2 piece rear main seal is 31161111. Summit shows it in their catalog for $1718.26 on page 124. That's the March-April catalog.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by Greg Reimer 7376

Einstein said that the definition of insanity is when you try the same thing over and over expecting different results.

Everything is absolutely correct, especially this.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by Rich Biebel

Todd if your going to stick with a stock block I would look for a 4 bolt with nodular caps.

That's probably not going to be easy to find nor does it insure its a real good block cylinder wall thickness-wise.....and it still needs a lot of prep work

I know its expensive but a Bowtie or an aftermarket, legal block is a far better choice....

The two blocks I have access to are NOT nodular caps, just grey iron. Since were looking at less than 400hp I'm not worried. I want two engines so I need a cheap one to run then I'll buy a good block and internals for a nice one.

[Tim H]

Originally Posted by Rich Biebel

Todd if your going to stick with a stock block I would look for a 4 bolt with nodular caps.

Not trying to go off topic however since so many knowledgeable / helpful people have responded to this thread, how does one identify a production 4 bolt block w/ nodular caps ?