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#1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Phoenix, Az
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Ok guys, i need some help. What is the best way to remove the door bars? I got no clue.
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#2 | |
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Best way I've found is to take the door off and lay it on saw horses. You cut the out the section of the jamb where the bar is spot welded with a thin cut off wheel , front and back. Then you slide the bar out ,with the jamb pieces attached. Separate the bar from the sheet metal pieces and then tack weld the pieces back in where they were. Continue tacking until almost a solid weld, then grind and spot putty the jambs.. On some cars, you can drill the spot welds out on one end and not have to cut a window on both ends. Once the bars are out, make sure the door shell is not able to be twisted. In that case , weld the corners of the skin to the frame or brace accordingly. Those door beams add quite a bit of structure to some models. Call me if you need to.. MY
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
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I would suggest removing all of the easy stuff first because it will be light for U/SA 3030 lbs. I have a 79 U/SA mustang Ghia with the standard easy stuff removed-heater box-wiper stuff and with a 200 lb. driver, I have to add 50-75 lbs. Brian
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#4 |
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Verrry South Jersey
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I haven't done it myself, but have read about it on Thecorral.net. It sounds like it's a b**** on a Fox. Maybe search over there to see if someone has a good method?
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Phoenix, Az
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Thanks Mark and BS 428. I didn't realize that it's that easy to get the car under weight. I think I will leave them for last. I'm in strip it down mode and figured i'd pull them out too. I weigh 165 so making it light might be easier than I thought.
Mark, thanks for the help too. I for sure will call you as i progress in the project so I don't make any costly mistakes. |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: yarnell,az
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Robbie, you know you will be racing that fast Maverick in the Graham stable.
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#7 |
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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Remove unneeded wiring, all sound deadener, carpet insulation, and anything not needed. You will be surprised what that adds up to. It's all in the details, and adds up quickly. Get the weight off the front so you can put it where you need it in the back. Find an aluminum front bumper.
There is mastic that glues the door skin to the crash bars, so don't just start prying and pulling on it, otherwise you will do a number on the door skin. My 78 Zephyr, the crash bar had to be cut in half to get it out of the doors A cut-off wheel is best, and whatever you do protect/remove the glass or you will be replacing it. The grinding embers will pit the glass.
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Sean Marconette 84 Mustang 5060 SS/N |
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#8 |
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Drop one of the factory seats on a scale and compare the difference with a racing seat. Whole bunch right there.
If you come heads up to Brian Seaburg's U/SA Comet at a Lucas Oil Series race, get up on the wheel. Dale
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Dale Shearon 68 Mustang 6394 |
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#9 |
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Sean, Probably not much left on any 79 Arizona car.
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#10 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Phoenix, Az
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