Steel rod life expectancy

[joespanova]

Anyone using steel rods to 9000 RPM (give or take) with 300 plus runs?
I lost a rod this weekend, ( Howards aluminum ) although the damage was basically just the block , 1 piston..........., Now I'll put a spare block into service and consider steel rods..............but , I'm not about to spend 3-4 grand on a set of Carillos.........no way. I'll go back to aluminum , possibly. I think any rod manufacturer that tells you their aluminum rods will see 300 runs in a combo like mine is full of shee-ot.
My fault / stupidity for running them past the 80 -100 runs ..........I should have chucked them a month ago........I'm a slow learner......... But my best guess is I didnt have more than 125 runs on those rods.

Small Chevy , 14.0 comp 6.150 rod.........so you can do the math , the piston isn't heavy.........

[SSDiv6]

Originally Posted by joespanova

Anyone using steel rods to 9000 RPM (give or take) with 300 plus runs?
I lost a rod this weekend, ( Howards aluminum ) although the damage was basically just the block , 1 piston..........., Now I'll put a spare block into service and consider steel rods..............but , I'm not about to spend 3-4 grand on a set of Carillos.........no way. I'll go back to aluminum , possibly. I think any rod manufacturer that tells you their aluminum rods will see 300 runs in a combo like mine is full of shee-ot.
My fault / stupidity for running them past the 80 -100 runs ..........I should have chucked them a month ago........I'm a slow learner......... But my best guess is I didnt have more than 125 runs on those rods.

Small Chevy , 14.0 comp 6.150 rod.........so you can do the math , the piston isn't heavy.........

Whomever said you could run an aluminum rod for that many runs was full of it. Fatigue and detonation are the worst enemies of an Aluminum connecting rod.

If you select the right brand and material of steel connecting rod, it will go that many runs down the track. One of the biggest factors in longevity is to select the correct rod bolt. My preference is also an "I" beam over the "H" beam style of rod. The steel rod will also allow you to run a tighter deck since they don't stretch like Aluminum rods do. Pro Stock and many Comp guys are currently running steel rods successfully.

Some of the companies I would recommend are Carrillo, Crower, R&R and Oliver. I good set of steel rods from these vendors will not cost you $3000.00 to $4000.00.

[joespanova]

Originally Posted by SSDiv6

Whomever said you could run an aluminum rod for that many runs was full of it. Fatigue and detonation are the worst enemies of an Aluminum connecting rod.

If you select the right brand and material of steel connecting rod, it will go that many runs down the track. One of the biggest factors in longevity is to select the correct rod bolt. My preference is also an "I" beam over the "H" beam style of rod. The steel rod will also allow you to run a tighter deck since they don't stretch like Aluminum rods do. Pro Stock and many Comp guys are currently running steel rods successfully.

Some of the companies I would recommend are Carrillo, Crower, R&R and Oliver. I good set of steel rods from these vendors will not cost you $3000.00 to $4000.00.

Not bashing...just repeating the comment the guy shared with me..........nice sales tactic indeed.........but we know better don't we...
It was either MGP , GRP or R&R.

[SSGT Mustang]

You can buy a used set of Carrillo or Lentz rods from a cup team for next to nothing (couple hundred bucks).

I had a set of used super speedway Carrillo's in a 9200 RPM 358 and put countless passes on them with ZERO problems. I even dropped a valve, and the rod didn't miss a beat. I sold them to a friend of mine who still uses them in a bracket motor.

I moved over to Manley aluminum rods and broke one after 18 passes. I have GRP rods in a new motor, but am thinking about going back to a steel rod or moving up to a titanium rod, because aluminum rods seem to be ticking time bombs (much more so than a good steel rod).

A lot of guys use aluminum rods, and don't mind the maintenance. I'd rather have an engine that can suffer some "miscalculations" and requires fewer teardowns.

Just my .02.

[SSDiv6]

Originally Posted by joespanova

Not bashing...just repeating the comment the guy shared with me..........nice sales tactic indeed.........but we know better don't we...
It was either MGP , GRP or R&R.

You can purchase a set of Crower Billet Rods Maxilight #5 (800+ HP) or Maxilight #6 (1,000+ HP) steel billet rods with the Honda rod journal and custom length size for less than $1600.00 and it includes free shipping.

[joespanova]

The used speedway stuff , that would be hit or miss.........still make me nervous after all that abuse. Not only that....I wouldnt have a clue as to who to call.

I'll look at the Crower stuff and call.

[Kevin Panzino]

Aluminum is a terrible material for fatigue resistance. Horrible.

A quality steel rod (not made in China) will last essentially a lifetime if kept within its design range. Not so with aluminum no matter what the alloy, or QA/QC. Its just the nature of the materials inherent poor fatigue resistance qualities.


Oliver and Manley offer very reasonably priced 100% USA material, USA forging, and USA machined rods... right around $1200 a set.

[Ed Wright]

I would not put more than 50 passes on an aluminum rod myself. Been there.

[SSDiv6]

Originally Posted by Kevin Panzino

Aluminum is a terrible material for fatigue resistance. Horrible.

A quality steel rod (not made in China) will last essentially a lifetime if kept within its design range. Not so with aluminum no matter what the alloy, or QA/QC. Its just the nature of the materials inherent poor fatigue resistance qualities.


Oliver and Manley offer very reasonably priced 100% USA material, USA forging, and USA machined rods... right around $1200 a set.

The only Manley connecting rod that is made in the USA is the Pro Beam. All the others are off shore blanks machined in the USA.

[Tim H]

[QUOTE=Kevin Panzino;435057]Aluminum is a terrible material for fatigue resistance. Horrible.

A quality steel rod (not made in China) will last essentially a lifetime if kept within its design range.



I have had really great luck with good ole' GM hi-perf 7/16" LS7 / L88 big block con rods. I have been told the "steel was better back in the late 1960's early 1970's." The old "pink" rods for small block were good pieces also.