Camber caster
What camber caster and toe in should i have on my Camaro 67 with smallblock?
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Re: Camber caster
Door Slammers: The Chassis Book
by Dave Morgan. This book will answer all your questions and get you on the right track! |
Re: Camber caster
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Now I'm not the Subject Matter Expert, but zero toe in/out and as close to zero camber. Bump Steer is another issue that needs to be addressed with these cars and at least 2 to 2 1/2 degrees of caster. If Billy Nees or Bobby Twynam are out there, may be you can elaborate on this question. Reading the " Door Slammer " Book will educate you on the needed specs and why you need them. Respectfully, Henry Kunz 1534 H/SA 1969 Nova |
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Before you start to set your toe, make sure that both tie-rods are equal length and when done make sure again. Don't worry about your steering wheel being centered. If your anal-retention won't allow your wheel to be crooked then you'll have to find another way to straighten it. IF, if you want to take a crack at your bump-steer, you will more-than-likely need to lower the outer tie-rod either with spacers or by bending your steering knuckle. IF, if you don't get carried away with positive caster, the bump-steer shouldn't be bad enough to even mess with. |
Re: Camber caster
Don't worry about your tie rod sleeves being perfectly centered-worry more about the centerlink being centered!! I see more cars where people worry about the sleeves and the centerlink is off from side to side. If the centerlink is off it completely screws up the bumpsteer from side to side. One side might not be too bad and the other is way off. I've been doing this for a few decades now and seen a lot of screw ups. The idler and pitman arm should be straight front to back when the centerlink is centered.
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