Rear shock advice needed.

[Catman]

Thinking of going from rear Afco 2-way adjustable big guns, to Santhuff's.
9.20, 3050 lb. small block, ladder bar, stick shift bracket car.
Looking for a little more consistent 60 ft. times.
In your opinion is it worth the $1800 investment or would it be better to spend the money elsewhere. Much Thanks, Danny

[Tom Goldman]

Every car I've installed Santhuffs on has shown improvement.
Usually its over lesser shocks than your current AFCOs ,but I have seen improvements over KONIs and AFCOS on some cars including my own , not just in 60' times but on my own Super Gas car a significant improvement down track at transitions and bumps.
The old adage applies ,you get what you pay for .

[Mike Mans]

Originally Posted by Catman

Thinking of going from rear Afco 2-way adjustable big guns, to Santhuff's.
9.20, 3050 lb. small block, ladder bar, stick shift bracket car.
Looking for a little more consistent 60 ft. times.
In your opinion is it worth the $1800 investment or would it be better to spend the money elsewhere. Much Thanks, Danny

Hi Danny - Do you have any data acquisition on the car now? Do you have any information as to what you believe may be causing the inconsistent 60' times? You very well may see improvement with shocks if that's the root cause of the inconsistencies - but you're definitely dealing with quite a few variables with a car like that. I'd hate to tell you that shocks are the best place to spend your money without more information.
- Mike

[CMcAllister]

We've seen a 3200# low 9s backhalf stick car go from shelf shocks to Santhuffs a while back. Run the 4 link fairly aggressive and the car works great. Will dip into the 1.20s in 60' if he gets after it in the bellhousing. Lives in the low to mid 1.30s repeating like a dragster.

Low 10/high 9, 3400# all steel stick shift Camaro ate up shelf shocks and we put shelf Big Guns on it. Made the car way better. Also a 4 link deal.

Low 9, ladder bar deal is tough. Get your info, weights, etc and have a set built for that. Someone may be able to rework the Afcos.

Santhuffs have their deal that works well. I've used shocks from Fastshocks that work well. I'm sure the other guys can also dial in a set for your combo. You're going to have to spend money on shocks to make that work.

[Marty Rinehart Jr]

Originally Posted by Catman

Thinking of going from rear Afco 2-way adjustable big guns, to Santhuff's.
9.20, 3050 lb. small block, ladder bar, stick shift bracket car.
Looking for a little more consistent 60 ft. times.
In your opinion is it worth the $1800 investment or would it be better to spend the money elsewhere. Much Thanks, Danny

We are dealers for Santhuff Suspension specialties. We usually see improvements on all of the cars we put them on. I’ve never had a person tell me it wasn’t worth the money.
Feel free to call me if you have any specific questions.
717-793-6819

[Marty Rinehart Jr]

Originally Posted by Catman

Thinking of going from rear Afco 2-way adjustable big guns, to Santhuff's.
9.20, 3050 lb. small block, ladder bar, stick shift bracket car.
Looking for a little more consistent 60 ft. times.
In your opinion is it worth the $1800 investment or would it be better to spend the money elsewhere. Much Thanks, Danny

We are dealers for Santhuff Suspension specialties. We usually see improvements on all of the cars we put them on. I’ve never had a person tell me it wasn’t worth the money.

With conventional shocks, the valves are made of spring stacks. When a certain pressure is reached within the shock the valves open to let oil flow through holes of a set size. Before this pressure is reached the shock doesn't move. This causes a more violent suspension behavior.

When adjusting this type of shock you are adjusting the pressure it takes for the valving to release. Santhuff valving on the other hand doesn't use spring stacks. Our valves consist of ports only. When the shock is adjusted the port size is changed. This type of valving is speed sensitive, the faster the piston tries to move the more the shock resists. This causes a type of self regulating effect. This type of valving is also smoother and less violent. We try to let the coil spring do it's job of supporting the car and use the shock to control the spring.

Feel free to call me if you have any specific questions.
717-793-6819

[MAURICE BLENDHEIM]

Originally Posted by Catman

Thinking of going from rear Afco 2-way adjustable big guns, to Santhuff's.
9.20, 3050 lb. small block, ladder bar, stick shift bracket car.
Looking for a little more consistent 60 ft. times.
In your opinion is it worth the $1800 investment or would it be better to spend the money elsewhere. Much Thanks, Danny

Catman… What are your current 60’ times? Curious as to what your Engine Displacement is? What transmission gear ratio’s and rear end ratio? What tire size? How much variance in your 60’ times? Sorry for the questions. MB

[Catman]

Gentlemen, I greatly appreciate your time & advise.
Marty I somewhat understand the difference between the Santhuff valving & other manufactures & I like what Tom said about the differences between the down track transitions.
Mike, I feel the ladder bar suspension is a big part of the inconsistent 60 ft. times & was thinking that changing the shocks would help for the time being. It seems like whenever the car doesn't run the dial the 60 ft. is always off. The only data I have is the RacePak with drive shaft & clutch sensors, nothing on the shocks or wheelie bars. Thanks Danny

[Ralph A Powell]

It’s not the ladder bars, both Glidden, Gapp and Dino won a lot of races with ladder bar cars. It’s all about the shocks, rear springs and weight distribution!

[Mike Pearson]

Not sure what the issues with your car are. I race a ladder bar car. I have Santhuff doubles on the front and QA1 singles on the rear. 110 lb spring rate on the rear. I felt that the front shocks were more important than the rear. At some point I will make the switch to the double adjustable shocks on the rear. My car is similar weight but runs low 10's. We typically run on well prepped tracks and my 60 ft times will vary .01-.02 on a typical day. track and air conditions can effect the 60 ft times as well. my car usually has 1.31 60 ft times and has been as fast as 1.29.
I see you race bracket car. My guess is it is more of a track issue than a car issue. Stick cars can also vary on 60 ft times due to clutch adjustment. for your car to be consistent in the 60 ft times it has to dead hook and limit clutch slip

What shocks are you running o the front of the car?