Engine break in and seating the rings????

acme383 · 08-21-2013, 03:39 PM

How long does it usually take to seat the rings on a fresh engine? How long before going to a synthetic oil? Is a break in oil necessary for a used roller cam? What kind of oil should I use for break in? I was going to use 15w40 with 2 bottles of zinc. How long should I run it with that oil before switching to the Brad Penn semi-synthetic? Thanks in advance. Dan

art leong · 08-21-2013, 05:02 PM

I would say that all depends on the type of ring. Best to ask the ring manufacturer.
I just got my thing together started it up. held it at 2000 to 2500 in neutral for 20 minutes.
Let it cool naturally to amient temp, then repeat. I did this 4 times. And I just drained the dino oil out and put in synthetic Going to race this weekend.
This is with a moly top, and a cast second ring and a fine cylinder bore.

My leakdowns have always been 5% or better.

carl hinkson · 08-21-2013, 10:01 PM

It really depends on how the block was prepped. If it was plate honed with a good hone the rings should seat pretty quick,

When you have cylinder like these I would a\say they will never seat properly
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j459/cegaithe/Problems%20in%20the%20406/2013052295154845_zps4d80e12f.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

A leak down test will tell you if the rings have seated.

CFMCNC · 08-22-2013, 12:49 AM

Use a break in oil with high as in 1200-1400PPM ZDDP,Manditory with flat tappets and a good idea with rollers ,Use an oil with little or no Molylebdenum as it will impead ring seal on break in and too much moly will cause needle bearings to glide instead of roll making flat spots with high spring pressure aggressive cams.Best way to break in new engine is on dyno with blowby meter.No synthetic till after break in.Bill C.

ss wannabee · 08-22-2013, 09:02 AM

Carl, think you're saying a good cross-hatch pattern is still recommended...

Doesn't the last photo come close?

carl hinkson · 08-22-2013, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ss wannabee

Carl, think you're saying a good cross-hatch pattern is still recommended...

Doesn't the last photo come close?

Cross hatch appears to be good but the cylinder distortion the ring seal will be poor which will cause blow by issues. You have to have round cylinders once the heads are bolter on, Proper cross hatch and use proper abrasives and a good honing machine is a plus to achieve good ring seal.

Here is a link to look over

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...e+plate+honing

Reed Granrt · 08-22-2013, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ss wannabee

Carl, think you're saying a good cross-hatch pattern is still recommended...

Doesn't the last photo come close?

Nope--look at the top of the cylinder where the top rings rides--blow by. Yep there is a cross hatch and it dont look bad but cylinder is out of round. Just my pinion. Got two 400 here now, both supposedly plate hones. Put plates, on made 3 passes and I can see every bolt just like that one. Put doal bore gage in and immediately called the customers. A tu--d is a tu---d no matter how much you polish it(or Hone)
reed

Gary Wiegand · 08-22-2013, 10:45 AM

I've had excellent results with a number of engines using Brad Penn 30 wt. break-in oil. Engine has Speed Pro low tension moly rings. New or freshened up engine has the 30 wt. oil in it along with a K&N filter when I pick it up. Engine is run while setting timing, valves etc. Leave oil in for the first time at the track. I make at least one easier pass, then race it that day with the break-in oil in the engine. When home I change oil and filter. I use 10W30 Brad Penn oil since my engine is clearanced properly for 10W30, and WIX racing filters. I usually change oil and filter after about 20 passes. The oil still looks good when change it. It could probably be left in but I don't. Engine is sealed up so nice I don't need to add oil between race weekends.

Mike Delahanty · 08-24-2013, 09:03 AM

I have become a real believer in the Gibbs BR break in oil. I would not start a new engine without it. Power levels and ring seal stabilize within 2-4 pulls on the Dyno. Engine disassembly after Dyno break-in looks like the engine has never been run. I also like the Gibbs engine assembly lubricants and see them in many of the high end engine builders assembly rooms that I visit.

Reed Granrt · 08-24-2013, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Delahanty

I have become a real believer in the Gibbs BR break in oil. I would not start a new engine without it. Power levels and ring seal stabilize within 2-4 pulls on the Dyno. Engine disassembly after Dyno break-in looks like the engine has never been run. I also like the Gibbs engine assembly lubricants and see them in many of the high end engine builders assembly rooms that I visit.

Now, how the crap can we believe what you say---ya work for Ford, a drag racer duing roundy round, and driving a MoPar. Being that scrwed up, I wouldnt let u in my shop. HeHeHe Oh bye the way, I totally use and believe In Joe Gibbs oil and assembly. The assembly lube does not blind a filter and I have found several assm. lube that will blind certain filters. Best I have found on the dyno.
Reed

08-21-2013, 03:39 PM	#1
acme383 Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: chitown Posts: 55 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Engine break in and seating the rings???? How long does it usually take to seat the rings on a fresh engine? How long before going to a synthetic oil? Is a break in oil necessary for a used roller cam? What kind of oil should I use for break in? I was going to use 15w40 with 2 bottles of zinc. How long should I run it with that oil before switching to the Brad Penn semi-synthetic? Thanks in advance. Dan

08-21-2013, 05:02 PM	#2
art leong VIP Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Richmond Hill, Georgia Posts: 2,003 Likes: 0 Liked 1 Time in 1 Post	Re: Engine break in and seating the rings???? I would say that all depends on the type of ring. Best to ask the ring manufacturer. I just got my thing together started it up. held it at 2000 to 2500 in neutral for 20 minutes. Let it cool naturally to amient temp, then repeat. I did this 4 times. And I just drained the dino oil out and put in synthetic Going to race this weekend. This is with a moly top, and a cast second ring and a fine cylinder bore. My leakdowns have always been 5% or better. __________________ Art Leong 2095 SS

08-21-2013, 10:01 PM	#3
carl hinkson Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: NORTHEAST Posts: 287 Likes: 1 Liked 18 Times in 10 Posts	Re: Engine break in and seating the rings???? It really depends on how the block was prepped. If it was plate honed with a good hone the rings should seat pretty quick, When you have cylinder like these I would a\say they will never seat properly http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j459/cegaithe/Problems%20in%20the%20406/2013052295154845_zps4d80e12f.jpg[/IMG][/URL] A leak down test will tell you if the rings have seated.

08-22-2013, 12:49 AM	#4
CFMCNC Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Somwhere in NJ Posts: 72 Likes: 4 Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Re: Engine break in and seating the rings???? Use a break in oil with high as in 1200-1400PPM ZDDP,Manditory with flat tappets and a good idea with rollers ,Use an oil with little or no Molylebdenum as it will impead ring seal on break in and too much moly will cause needle bearings to glide instead of roll making flat spots with high spring pressure aggressive cams.Best way to break in new engine is on dyno with blowby meter.No synthetic till after break in.Bill C.

08-22-2013, 09:02 AM	#5
ss wannabee Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Posts: 663 Likes: 0 Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts	Re: Engine break in and seating the rings???? Carl, think you're saying a good cross-hatch pattern is still recommended... Doesn't the last photo come close?

08-22-2013, 10:45 AM	#8
Gary Wiegand Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Posts: 8 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Engine break in and seating the rings???? I've had excellent results with a number of engines using Brad Penn 30 wt. break-in oil. Engine has Speed Pro low tension moly rings. New or freshened up engine has the 30 wt. oil in it along with a K&N filter when I pick it up. Engine is run while setting timing, valves etc. Leave oil in for the first time at the track. I make at least one easier pass, then race it that day with the break-in oil in the engine. When home I change oil and filter. I use 10W30 Brad Penn oil since my engine is clearanced properly for 10W30, and WIX racing filters. I usually change oil and filter after about 20 passes. The oil still looks good when change it. It could probably be left in but I don't. Engine is sealed up so nice I don't need to add oil between race weekends.

08-24-2013, 09:03 AM	#9
Mike Delahanty VIP Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,179 Likes: 0 Liked 225 Times in 36 Posts	Re: Engine break in and seating the rings???? I have become a real believer in the Gibbs BR break in oil. I would not start a new engine without it. Power levels and ring seal stabilize within 2-4 pulls on the Dyno. Engine disassembly after Dyno break-in looks like the engine has never been run. I also like the Gibbs engine assembly lubricants and see them in many of the high end engine builders assembly rooms that I visit. __________________ Been racing Stock and S/S cars since 1973.