Water Pump Questions

[Tod Lane]

I did a search of the forum and didn't find the answer to the questions I have

Now as I understand it, the stock type, engine driven water pump on on a SBC pumps upwards of 140 GPM. I see Meziere and Dedenbear electric pumps as well as some other brands all flow about 35... Which Meziere claims will cool to about 650 HP per their web site. They offer a 50 GPM pump for higher HP applications.

Can anyone tell me what a belt driven Moroso type setup pumps? I know there are variables, like a Stewart type pump versus a stock O'Reilly pump. Would the belt drive set up flow more GPM?

[eddie c]

I cant answer your questions directly,but I can give you some details that
may point you in the proper direction. Is the car going to be a track car only,you dont say in you thread,but I presume it to be a drag car only.As
far as the Meziere pump I have a 50 gpm electric one on my street strip LT1 Roadmaster and it does a very adequate job in both street and strip.The 140 gph figure that you stated seems high and you might need to check at what RPM that figure is derived from. If you are asking what gph the Moroso set up flows, if its the one with the elecrtic motor spinning the stock water pump I would say the gph figure would have to be pretty low. I believe that set up is supposed to help cool the motor off
when comming back the return road,and as soon as it gets lined up in the lanes the the hot coolent is flushed and cool water added to the system. I would have to know more details on what you want to use
before I could help. However there are way smarter guys than me on this site ,they may have better data for you . ed

[FED 387]

we have always taken the "stock" type pump out and modified it ... What we have done is remove the impeller and grind off every other blade on the impeller.NO restrictions in the thermostat housing restrictors/thermostat shell whatever. Put new seals,gaskets & bearing in and re installed it ---we can drive the car into the staging lanes, do a burn out make a 1/4 mile pass drive the car to the scale, fuel check and back to the trailer and never got over 190*--- course ya shut it off at the scale-- fuel check lotsa pushing but it still does not get too hot---- using a stock 67 Camaro 6 cylinder manual trans radiator/aluminum sbc pump with a stock 67 Camaro 6 cylinder fan shroud and a aluminum 2-3 inch fan spacer and a fiberglass fan with a Moroso style electric motor drive to the pump also a long style pump or a short style pump with the aluminum spacers-- do not use a V8 shroud cuz the shroud is not deep enough for the fan to get close enough to the radiator and a manual trans radiator does not have any cooling stuff in the end tanks for the auto trans.also the 6 cylinder radiator takes lotsa weight off the front end of the car ---SBC super modified class car----works for us

[Tod Lane]

Originally Posted by FED 387

we have always taken the "stock" type pump out and modified it ... What we have done is remove the impeller and grind off every other blade on the impeller.NO restrictions in the thermostat housing restrictors/thermostat shell whatever. Put new seals,gaskets & bearing in and re installed it ---we can drive the car into the staging lanes, do a burn out make a 1/4 mile pass drive the car to the scale, fuel check and back to the trailer and never got over 190*--- course ya shut it off at the scale-- fuel check lotsa pushing but it still does not get too hot---- using a stock 67 Camaro 6 cylinder manual trans radiator/aluminum sbc pump with a stock 67 Camaro 6 cylinder fan shroud and a aluminum 2-3 inch fan spacer and a fiberglass fan with a Moroso style electric motor drive to the pump also a long style pump or a short style pump with the aluminum spacers-- do not use a V8 shroud cuz the shroud is not deep enough for the fan to get close enough to the radiator and a manual trans radiator does not have any cooling stuff in the end tanks for the auto trans.also the 6 cylinder radiator takes lotsa weight off the front end of the car ---SBC super modified class car----works for us

We ran the electric Moroso belt drive with a Scirroco radiator 25 years ago in the bracket car, it would cool long enough to get back to the pits, but it was slow to cool down between rounds.
This time around we intend to upgrade the radiator and water pump, I think I phrased my question poorly.
What I was wondering is the electric belt driven water pump set up capable of pumping, of course there are several stock type pumps, the Stewart Phase four calims up to 160 GPH at 4500 pump RPM. I have no idea how many RPM the old belt type drives produce.

[FED 387]

another thing to consider is that even tho a brass radiator weighs more than an aluminum one it cools BETTER( brass does)-look at the new cars some of them have 2 huge electric fans running most of the time just to keep the engine temp at a certain level (mainly for pollution control)- so ya gotta figure out what do ya wanna do---- do you really need that water zinging thru the system or are ya trying to cool the system ??? the water really needs to go thru slower to extract the heat out of the engine just cuz its going fast doesnt necessarily means its doing a good job of cooling !!!!

[MontyF]

Originally Posted by FED 387

another thing to consider is that even tho a brass radiator weighs more than an aluminum one it cools BETTER( brass does)-look at the new cars some of them have 2 huge electric fans running most of the time just to keep the engine temp at a certain level (mainly for pollution control)- so ya gotta figure out what do ya wanna do---- do you really need that water zinging thru the system or are ya trying to cool the system ??? the water really needs to go thru slower to extract the heat out of the engine just cuz its going fast doesnt necessarily means its doing a good job of cooling !!!!

Auctually my experience hasn't shown that to be the case. On hard to cool street engines a new large four core (brass/copper) radiator doesn't cool better than a smaller two row aluminum using the same fan set-up. I don't know how to explain it based on thermal conductivity but it's true.

Also according to Howard Stewart moving the water faster through a race engine will remove more BTU/Hr. They say slowing the water flow is of no benefit.