Slant six starting woes...

[bill dedman]

Spent the last TWO DAYS trying to get our new engine started, without ANY success.

We didn't install ANY of the turbo plumbing, and have a just the stock, freshy-rebuilt, 1-bbl carb on a stock /6 intake manifold, and are using a stock exhaust manifold, installed with all the stock hardware. A short exhaust system with a muffler completes the temporary installation.

The idea in doing all this was to have a trouble-free startup for our cam break-in.

Ha.... the best-laid plans, etc...


Here's the problem; maybe somebody can figure it out and tell me what is going on; I can't stand another day of cranking with no start...

It's a .065"-overbored 225 motor (234 cubic inches) with forged pistons, an un-milled head and un-milled block deck... 9:1, measured compression with flat top pistons that are .167" down in the hole.

Stock stroke (4-1/8") crank, with 1.75"/1.5" valves


None of that has anyhing to do with why it won't start, though...

BIG battery (cranks fast,) excellent, new, mini-starter and the multimeter shows 12.64 volts at the + side of the coil) wired direct from the battery.

New spark plug wires and new stock heat range (Champion) plugs.

New magnetic pickup distributor, remanufactured from NAPA (nobody had a new one.... all re-manufactured.)

Used, but stock coil off a previously-running car.

Turn the key to "start," and....

Nothing... crank, crank, crank (this, on a brand-new cam that was degreed several times to ensure that it was in correctly.)

Pulled the coil off, and replaced it with a NEW one from NAPA.

Nothing.... crank,crank, crank.... still, no spark.

Pulled the distributor and replaced it withn a "points-style" distributor with new points and condenser....


Nothing.... crank, crank, crank...

It SOUNDS here, like the cam is not turning, but it has a brand new timing sprocket set and a new chain, with the splash "washer" installed correctly.

Obviously, there is no "make-break" signal gettting to the coil. To reiterate, the + side of the coil is wired DIRECTLY to the BATTERY hot side, and is showing 12+ volts throughout all of this.

I am stumped.

I'm afraid all this cranking at starting RPM is going to damage the cam, in spite of lots of ZDDP in the oil, and worn-out 318 valve springs on the valves.

Of course, once it's obviously not going to "hit" (fire), we stop cranking, immediately, but still.... that can't be anything but BAD for that cam/lifter interface...

This is driving me nutz... and, Freddie.

Has anyone got ANY idea what could keep that signal from the distibutor that goes to the minus side of the coil, from reaching there? ALL wiring to the distributor and coil has been eliminated except for the HOT (12.4 volts from the battery) and the one wire that goes to the minus side of the coil from the points or magnetic pickup in the distributor.

ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED...


We need to get this thing running... yesterday...

[Phillip marvetz]

If there is no spark then you have obvious problem. Does the rotor turn while cranking?
if yes and you have used the rotor on both distributors check to make sure voltage gets from the center to the tip. I have had one that didn't send the signal once. weird but happened. Does the coil still have voltage when cranking?

[kansas stocker]

Phillip knows far more about these engines than I do. If the rotor is turning I'd pull the distributor and turn it by hand so you are not rotating the engine while you are looking for the problem. My first step would be to replace the champions with anything else.
Pete

[Tom keedle]

put a test light on the NEG SIDE OF THE COIL (ground the wire on the test light) and give it a crank, it should flash.
if not THEN i would see if the dist is turning...

[NWDragracing]

As I recall, many of those distributors had a Nylon gear at the end of the distributor and prone to breaking.

[bill dedman]

Originally Posted by NWDragracing

As I recall, many of those distributors had a Nylon gear at the end of the distributor and prone to breaking.

Yes, they are both nylon... I'll investigate that. Thanks!

[bill dedman]

Originally Posted by Tom keedle

put a test light on the NEG SIDE OF THE COIL (ground the wire on the test light) and give it a crank, it should flash.
if not THEN i would see if the dist is turning...

I will do that, but I don't think I'll see a signal.... but, I WILL do that.

Thanks!

[novassdude]

This maybe to simple but do you have good ground to the engine? I assume if it is cranking you do. But I find in my line of work that poor grounds cause a lot of issues.

[bill dedman]

Originally Posted by Phillip marvetz

If there is no spark then you have obvious problem. Does the rotor turn while cranking?
if yes and you have used the rotor on both distributors check to make sure voltage gets from the center to the tip. I have had one that didn't send the signal once. weird but happened. Does the coil still have voltage when cranking?

Coil has voltage at the + side at all times, due to the wired direct-to-battery hot side.