Steel vs Aluminum driveshaft

Ed Carpenter · 11-22-2010, 04:13 AM

What if any performance gain would there be going to an aluminum driveshaft. I always weigh the cost vs performance gain before buying anything. If 400.00 is going to get you .01 to .02 on the track then forget it. I race on a budjet I have to make smart purchases. Thanks. Ed

richie 2 · 11-22-2010, 08:09 AM

X 2...

Woodro Josey · 11-22-2010, 09:10 AM

ED I doubt you would even see that, save your money as far as i can tell!

jmcarter · 11-22-2010, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Woodro Josey

ED I doubt you would even see that, save your money as far as i can tell!

Agree with Woodro, not worth the extra $ unless you're after a contingency posting from manufacturer who only pays for the 'premium' series. If it was me I'd rather buy a component proven to yield results (i.e. chiller).

Tom Turner · 11-22-2010, 03:31 PM

I ran a pretty comprehensive back to back test in a pretty good stocker (96 Corvette) Results? zero performance gain. The aluminum unit is lighter so if you are a proponent of movable ballast, that is a plus.

Jeff Lee · 11-22-2010, 05:10 PM

Kip Martin with his 289/210 SS/L broke his aluminum one last year. Borrowed a steel one for the remainder of the race. He said it felt like a slug in high gear. I know it lost a few MPH but don't remember the ET loss, if any. Once he put a new aluminum back in, it was back to it's normal self.
I think a lot of questions need to be more directed at "what you got" and not with blanket statements. 5-speeds seem important to little engines over 4-speeds, same with light-weight parts like wheels & drive shafts.
I have all sorts of light parts. Has it helped set records? Probably. Can't complain about 10.50's in D/S and that's not a little engine.
If I had a 327 like yours, I wouldn't hesitate; 327 is probably about borderline on little engines with 350+ taking over from there.
I do understand budgets though! Could you borrow one?

Jeff Lee · 11-22-2010, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Turner

I ran a pretty comprehensive back to back test in a pretty good stocker (96 Corvette) Results? zero performance gain. The aluminum unit is lighter so if you are a proponent of movable ballast, that is a plus.

And I'll bet a 'Vette has a pretty short length drive shaft w/ a 97" WB so it's hard to compare to the average 108"-112" WB.

Tom Turner · 11-22-2010, 09:37 PM

Jeff; Not wishing to appear ignorant in the eyes of a guy who claims to be able to make a Rambler aproach warp speed in 1320ft I will admit to having a "short shaft". That being said; I ran an aluminum unit it my 90 Camaro as well with the same end result. I have heard ET gains of up to a tenth with aluminum driveshafts so perhaps you are correct to say that it probably has a lot to do with combinations: a clutch, manual trans and a "short stroke" It makes sense to me that all these guys didnt imagine the performance gains. Any component that reduces rotational mass or unsprung weight is worth consideration in my book and dont feel like the Lone Ranger if you have lost your "budget"; most of us suffer from the very same affliction. Agreeing with Jeff Lee??? Not bad, I do feel.............well.........a little slutty, but a shower will probably help. TT

b.guggenmos · 11-22-2010, 10:52 PM

I am just a bracket racer but this subject has always interested me. I have a 65 Comet with a 351C and a 4 speed with a 5:14 gear and a M/T 28x9 tire. I used a 3 1/2" .065 mild steel shaft for over 20 years with no problems. I accidently damaged by denting it so it was time for a replacement. It is 57" center to center.

I called Mark Williams first and they said that according to there critical speed chart I needed a 4" aluminum or carbon fiber shaft. This is a mid 11 second car.
I then called Inland Empire, PST, and several others and I had no two shops agree and what is required. I looked at several critical speed charts online and Mark Williams seemed the most conservative.

I ended up with a 3" Strange chrome moly but I still like the idea of an aluminum shaft. It seems like a good place to loose some rotational weight.

I really enjoy your site and I am anxious to see the results of this thread. Brian

Mike Graham · 11-22-2010, 11:52 PM

I tested steel vs al in my SS big block ford. Same day back to back. A-B-A
I gained zip. zero ,nada

11-22-2010, 04:13 AM	#1
Ed Carpenter Live Reporter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Dripping Springs, Tx Posts: 2,706 Likes: 186 Liked 515 Times in 131 Posts	Steel vs Aluminum driveshaft What if any performance gain would there be going to an aluminum driveshaft. I always weigh the cost vs performance gain before buying anything. If 400.00 is going to get you .01 to .02 on the track then forget it. I race on a budjet I have to make smart purchases. Thanks. Ed __________________ Ed Carpenter 2005 Chevy Cobalt A/SM Race Engine Development

11-22-2010, 08:09 AM	#2
richie 2 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 937 Likes: 362 Liked 175 Times in 79 Posts	Re: Steel vs Aluminum driveshaft X 2...

11-22-2010, 09:10 AM	#3
Woodro Josey Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 805 Likes: 0 Liked 3 Times in 1 Post	Re: Steel vs Aluminum driveshaft ED I doubt you would even see that, save your money as far as i can tell! __________________ Woodro Josey 2002 STK

11-22-2010, 03:31 PM	#5
Tom Turner Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Lake Tapps, Washington Posts: 137 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Steel vs Aluminum driveshaft I ran a pretty comprehensive back to back test in a pretty good stocker (96 Corvette) Results? zero performance gain. The aluminum unit is lighter so if you are a proponent of movable ballast, that is a plus.

11-22-2010, 05:10 PM	#6
Jeff Lee VIP Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Anthem, Arizona Posts: 2,766 Likes: 0 Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Re: Steel vs Aluminum driveshaft Kip Martin with his 289/210 SS/L broke his aluminum one last year. Borrowed a steel one for the remainder of the race. He said it felt like a slug in high gear. I know it lost a few MPH but don't remember the ET loss, if any. Once he put a new aluminum back in, it was back to it's normal self. I think a lot of questions need to be more directed at "what you got" and not with blanket statements. 5-speeds seem important to little engines over 4-speeds, same with light-weight parts like wheels & drive shafts. I have all sorts of light parts. Has it helped set records? Probably. Can't complain about 10.50's in D/S and that's not a little engine. If I had a 327 like yours, I wouldn't hesitate; 327 is probably about borderline on little engines with 350+ taking over from there. I do understand budgets though! Could you borrow one? __________________ Jeff Lee 7494 D/S '70 AMX

11-22-2010, 09:37 PM	#8
Tom Turner Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Lake Tapps, Washington Posts: 137 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Steel vs Aluminum driveshaft Jeff; Not wishing to appear ignorant in the eyes of a guy who claims to be able to make a Rambler aproach warp speed in 1320ft I will admit to having a "short shaft". That being said; I ran an aluminum unit it my 90 Camaro as well with the same end result. I have heard ET gains of up to a tenth with aluminum driveshafts so perhaps you are correct to say that it probably has a lot to do with combinations: a clutch, manual trans and a "short stroke" It makes sense to me that all these guys didnt imagine the performance gains. Any component that reduces rotational mass or unsprung weight is worth consideration in my book and dont feel like the Lone Ranger if you have lost your "budget"; most of us suffer from the very same affliction. Agreeing with Jeff Lee??? Not bad, I do feel.............well.........a little slutty, but a shower will probably help. TT

11-22-2010, 10:52 PM	#9
b.guggenmos Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Olympia, WA Posts: 68 Likes: 9 Liked 3 Times in 1 Post	Re: Steel vs Aluminum driveshaft I am just a bracket racer but this subject has always interested me. I have a 65 Comet with a 351C and a 4 speed with a 5:14 gear and a M/T 28x9 tire. I used a 3 1/2" .065 mild steel shaft for over 20 years with no problems. I accidently damaged by denting it so it was time for a replacement. It is 57" center to center. I called Mark Williams first and they said that according to there critical speed chart I needed a 4" aluminum or carbon fiber shaft. This is a mid 11 second car. I then called Inland Empire, PST, and several others and I had no two shops agree and what is required. I looked at several critical speed charts online and Mark Williams seemed the most conservative. I ended up with a 3" Strange chrome moly but I still like the idea of an aluminum shaft. It seems like a good place to loose some rotational weight. I really enjoy your site and I am anxious to see the results of this thread. Brian

11-22-2010, 11:52 PM	#10
Mike Graham Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 399 Likes: 1 Liked 313 Times in 61 Posts	Re: Steel vs Aluminum driveshaft I tested steel vs al in my SS big block ford. Same day back to back. A-B-A I gained zip. zero ,nada