Alignment question..

GTO/GN · 04-25-2010, 05:46 AM

Looking for some alignment specs for my 1987 Buick Grand Nation. I have access to the stock alignment specs. But what do I want to set the front end to for race only application. The car has a 455 Buick engine, Moroso springs ( for G body with big block ) Competition Engineering 90/10 front shocks. Thanks in advance for any replys.
Don

GTO/GN · 04-27-2010, 07:06 AM

268 views and not one reply??? I thought I would be flooded with suggestions..

Mike Taylor 3601 · 04-27-2010, 08:01 AM

I can't help with that my method is crude and probaly be made fun of put car on level surface old in ground drive on lift is really good,I put tops of tires in about 1/2-3/4 inch by using level (camber) make sure top ball joint is trailing lower ball joint (caster) if you can't tell usaully when you have caster and turn wheels car will raise one side when you cut the wheels more caster holds wheels in straight position takes more effort to turn and when let go of steering wheel with wheels turned and car moving wheels return straight faster.Adjust toe to 1/8 to 0 inches in. I've used this method since I have been 16 now 42
always works for me took a few to alignment guys and they said they could'nt improve any
maybe I'm lucky or they are lazy I don't know but my cars drive good let go of steering wheel they go straight, they roll easy.I had 66 chevyII when I was 16 used this method and you could put front tire on dotted lines and car would drive down dotted line by it's self then when got on Dbl.yellow would drive right down center of lines even would go around slight curves. was real cool trick called it autopilot.
I'll probaly be made fun of but it works for me.
Mike Taylor 3601

Moparteacher · 04-27-2010, 12:47 PM

Start at the rear tires. Confirm zero thrust angle.
Move up front.
Zero camber
Zero cross camber.
This should result in zero or near zero cross SAI. If not, suspect a bent steering knuckle, spindle, or ball joint.

Zero cross caster.
Positive caster helps with high speed stability but too much may complicate the alignment.
Steering gear must be centered. Not the steering wheel, but gear.
Center link should be level and parallel with the ground surface.
Ride height should be equal left to right.
Tie rod assemblies should be equal in length, left to right, and parallel to the lower control arm. Tie rod assemblies should also be equal in length to the lower control arm, Pivot to pivot.
Outer tie rods should be equal in distance to the ground and to the back side of the rotor. Modifications to the steering knuckle may be necessary to achieve preferred tie rod position.
Heim joints and shimming may help with outer tie rod positioning.
Taller than stock upper ball joints may help minimizing camber changes through joince and rebound.

Tie rod length and positioning helps to correct changes in toe through joince and rebound.

When done correctly there should be zero toe change throughout jounce and rebound.
Good luck.

04-25-2010, 05:46 AM	#1
GTO/GN Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 38 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Alignment question.. Looking for some alignment specs for my 1987 Buick Grand Nation. I have access to the stock alignment specs. But what do I want to set the front end to for race only application. The car has a 455 Buick engine, Moroso springs ( for G body with big block ) Competition Engineering 90/10 front shocks. Thanks in advance for any replys. Don __________________ 1965 GTO tri power, 4 speed, post car. 1987 Grand National, Winner TSM GS Nationals Bowling Green 2006, 9.92 @ 136.88

04-27-2010, 07:06 AM	#2
GTO/GN Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 38 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Alignment question.. 268 views and not one reply??? I thought I would be flooded with suggestions.. __________________ 1965 GTO tri power, 4 speed, post car. 1987 Grand National, Winner TSM GS Nationals Bowling Green 2006, 9.92 @ 136.88

04-27-2010, 08:01 AM	#3
Mike Taylor 3601 VIP Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Somerset,Ky Posts: 1,371 Likes: 353 Liked 306 Times in 103 Posts	Re: Alignment question.. I can't help with that my method is crude and probaly be made fun of put car on level surface old in ground drive on lift is really good,I put tops of tires in about 1/2-3/4 inch by using level (camber) make sure top ball joint is trailing lower ball joint (caster) if you can't tell usaully when you have caster and turn wheels car will raise one side when you cut the wheels more caster holds wheels in straight position takes more effort to turn and when let go of steering wheel with wheels turned and car moving wheels return straight faster.Adjust toe to 1/8 to 0 inches in. I've used this method since I have been 16 now 42 always works for me took a few to alignment guys and they said they could'nt improve any maybe I'm lucky or they are lazy I don't know but my cars drive good let go of steering wheel they go straight, they roll easy.I had 66 chevyII when I was 16 used this method and you could put front tire on dotted lines and car would drive down dotted line by it's self then when got on Dbl.yellow would drive right down center of lines even would go around slight curves. was real cool trick called it autopilot. I'll probaly be made fun of but it works for me. Mike Taylor 3601

04-27-2010, 12:47 PM	#4
Moparteacher Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Boise Posts: 49 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Alignment question.. Start at the rear tires. Confirm zero thrust angle. Move up front. Zero camber Zero cross camber. This should result in zero or near zero cross SAI. If not, suspect a bent steering knuckle, spindle, or ball joint. Zero cross caster. Positive caster helps with high speed stability but too much may complicate the alignment. Steering gear must be centered. Not the steering wheel, but gear. Center link should be level and parallel with the ground surface. Ride height should be equal left to right. Tie rod assemblies should be equal in length, left to right, and parallel to the lower control arm. Tie rod assemblies should also be equal in length to the lower control arm, Pivot to pivot. Outer tie rods should be equal in distance to the ground and to the back side of the rotor. Modifications to the steering knuckle may be necessary to achieve preferred tie rod position. Heim joints and shimming may help with outer tie rod positioning. Taller than stock upper ball joints may help minimizing camber changes through joince and rebound. Tie rod length and positioning helps to correct changes in toe through joince and rebound. When done correctly there should be zero toe change throughout jounce and rebound. Good luck. __________________ Gary Weaver Moparteacher@yahoo.com