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#1 |
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Anyone have a suggestion for a good valve spring tester? On head or off? I have a couple of new to me stockers Magnum 360 Dakota, 383 challenger, and I don't want to be changing the springs when I start to hear popping...too late, and running valves with unknown springs might be a exercise in futility.
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Eric Merryfield 1883 STK |
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#2 |
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I just used an LSM for the first time. Now I have it on my Christmas list. I was told it is as accurate as a bench-top Remac (sp?). The one I used gave a 20+ pound different reading than the standard Moroso tester (the Moroso read light). Well worth the $$ IMO.
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Jeff Lee 7494 D/S '70 AMX |
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#3 |
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The LSM spring tester is a fine piece of equipment. You do have to adjust it to your type of rocker arm. It comes with a good set of instructions. You have to calabrate it to a known spring that has been tested on a good quality bench tester. Then you check the spring with the LSM unit. There are shims you add or remove until you get the same pressure reading with the LSM and the bench tester. Once its calabrated it will give you excellent results. Very accurate
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Mike Pearson 2485 SS |
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#4 |
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It’s part number POW351047…catalog price is $219.95
Here's a diagram and instructions, trick piece! http://www.powerhouseproducts.com/Base/PDF/POW135.pdf
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Jeff Lee 7494 D/S '70 AMX Last edited by Jeff Lee; 06-19-2008 at 05:28 PM. |
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#5 |
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I have both the $$Proform (basically the same as the LSM) and the cheap Moroso one. The Proform one is nice because you can add or remove shims to adjust the point on the rocker arm where it measures. If you are too far towards the tip it will read low to close to pivot point it will read high.
Having said this I would be more concerned about what fits on your engine and allows you to take readings without having things like master cylinders or shock towers that get in the way of you taking a reading. To me it’s more important to measure pressure on a fresh set of springs/heads and track the changes than worry about the accuracy of a $75 checker opposed to a $300 one. To me a bench top unit is the only real way to accurately check installed height pressure. But if you are really worried about what the pressure really is when checking on the head you should check your springs at installed height on a bench top unit then install the spring(s) and then calibrate your hand held one by adjusting the shims. (Mike already said this) Again I have to say I would only use a handheld one for tracking changes in spring pressure not trying to decide if you have 170# or 200#. This really does not apply to stock but if you are working on a motor that has a different intake and exhaust rocker ratio you will probably get different readings intake to exhaust as the hand held checkers measuring point is in relation to the push rod so you can really only calibrate it to the intake or exhaust rocker on a set up like that. I bought my Proform to check springs on my Mopar because the Moroso one I use on the Pontiac would not read high enough. After spending the money I realized with my fender well headers swooping up I could not check ¾ of the springs without removing the headers. I guess I now have to go out and buy a 90 degree one; it will probably hit the intake!
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Bill Edgeworth 6471 STK |
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#6 |
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I just tore some crap up and ran embarasingly slow at Topeka due to premature valve spring deaths. Do you guys know of one that will do the the rear half of the springs on a '93/'97 GM Camaro/Firebird. Half that stupid engine is back under the windshield/cowl.
Thanks, Ed
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA |
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#7 |
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I haven't seen one in action with the slant handle, but I bet if you call LSM they can tell you if this may fit. It is the slant handle one.I have a straight handle one and it is worth it. I checked it vs. the rimac on the new springs and it is dead on if you are careful. It isn't really for set up, but it could prevent issues if you use it to monitor any severe changes that could cause problems like you were describing. Check it out. Jim.
http://www.lsmproducts.com/ p.s. I thought you were a stick guy? What happened? ![]()
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James Schaechter 3163 STK |
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James, if you were refering to me, I did run stick cars back in the '60s & '70s. I no longer have the urge to see that much of the bottom of the car. <G> I now leave that to me masocist friends James Lee, Gary Moore and Ed Carpenter. I'm too old and lazy now for that much maintenence. Automatics aren't nearly as much fun to drive, that's for sure, but not as time consuming to maintain.
If you didn't mean me, sorry. Take care, Ed
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA |
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I try to keep up my history of the old stick racers, I just think that the current stick and clutch technology is much more forgiving that the stuff that used to be out there. Still some more work, but probably not what you lived through. Jim.
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James Schaechter 3163 STK |
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#10 |
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Eric-As mentioned the LSM tool is a great piece. You can't go wrong.
. Ed- I didn't make Pine Valley because the Jerico let go in testing. I had to buy a new case from them. They are VERY proud of it too. What is your next race? After I get the trans back in my car it is going to Houston to be rewired from bumper to bumper. Im sick of chasing electrical issues so I'm going to bite the bullet and do it right regardless of cost. See ya down the road. James- Yes the new stuff is better. I obviously found out last week that the newer stuff still blows up. I get alot of grief from the guys over running a stick, but hell in SS in D4 there might be 2 or 3 of us and that's it. Plus it's fun as hell to drive. Do you have any 283 pistons?
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Ed Carpenter 2005 Chevy Cobalt A/SM Race Engine Development |
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