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#11 |
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Location: Arkansas - In the middle of everything.
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For those using a locked distributor or a crank trigger, you can also use one of the many ignition control boxes that have a built in retard circuit for starting. If you use mechanical advance, it will help to limit the amount of advance so that you have a lot of advance at idle to help engine idle quality with long duration camshaft. Seems like I had 10-12 degrees of advance in the distributor of my stocker so the fixed timing adjustment would be in the 24-30 degree range.
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#12 |
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the start retards do not work, been there done that. Some have stated they pull too much timing out.
Last edited by 1320racer; 05-02-2014 at 02:10 PM. |
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#13 |
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Not necessarily true. There are lots of solutions on the market and every engine combination is different. It will pay to do research and talk to those who it works for. I agree that some work and some do not.
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#14 |
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Seems to me that the perfect advance curve would be beneficial to power gains through the rpm range and that the only real advantage to locked timing is a cleaner low rpm (driveability) car. If we want max pressure at a certain crank angle throughout the rpm range, don't we have to light the plug at various points? Maybe the rpm's are high enough and the rpm band is narrow enough that full advance is all that's needed going down the track. For my foot brake bracket car it seems like the correct curve would yield more power, but who cares about a little better ET in a bracket car?
Am I way off here? |
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#15 |
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I use a crank trigger set up with MSD 7AL locked timing with an MSD retard module. The car starts perfectly. I did convert to a 16V battery this year and it makes a world of difference. The 16v battery seems to have picked my car up a bit too.
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Mike Pearson 2485 SS |
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#16 |
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Well, we run 12:1 big blocks in both class cars, both with MSD ignition, both with locked distributors (Super Stock engine has a crank trigger). Stocker is 12 volt, Super Stock car is 16 volt. Neither has any starting problems, both use the 20 degree start retard.
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Alan Roehrich 212A G/S |
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#17 |
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I dont even use a start retard...............with the 16 volt setup I've never had a problem.
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#18 |
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We run MSD with the lightest (Silver) springs and
the smallest advance bushings in our fleet of cars. Timing is in by about 21-2200 and all our stuff leaves the line at a higher stall speed than that. We have not found a issue with timing chattering at the RPM we run our stuff ( not much over 7400 ). I may lock out the Kids Super Stock for a couple runs and see if we pick up anything in MPH next race. I always spun the engine on a locked out car in the old days........... then switched the ignition on after it was turning over pretty fast. I still do on extremely high compression bracket stuff.
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John Irving 741 Stock 741 Super Stock |
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#19 |
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I also heard some start retards like my MSD 7AL might not work well, and in principle at idle you don't want full mechanical advance anyway. I agree with the above and also use light springs and silver stop to give about 12 deg. at starting, which gives around 22 at 1000, and all in at about 2200.
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