Hold down clamp - Page 2

Tom Goldman · 03-18-2013, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Gusack

Rotor phasing isn't necessary unless the car has EFI or a crank trigger, right? I've only done that when I was running a crank trigger.

Right, but with timing set by the distributer, silicone on the gasket does not make timing changes as easy as you would like.
The adjustable collars are a big vac leak source , but once you have your height established , scribe it , reinstall with silicone on the i.d and the split, and try it with a new gasket and a good clamp.....It's not a major machining opperation to install an o-ring groove to eliminate the gasket.
BTW , I've found one of the best sealers out there to be Mopar differential cover sealer and adheasive. It's grey in colour and it has tremendous adheasion.

Glenn Briglio · 03-21-2013, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Gusack

Rotor phasing isn't necessary unless the car has EFI or a crank trigger, right? I've only done that when I was running a crank trigger.

Rotor phasing should always be checked and corrected no matter what ignition system is used.

Ron Gusack · 03-21-2013, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glenn Briglio

Rotor phasing should always be checked and corrected no matter what ignition system is used.

I pulled the distributor out of it yesterday and I first lined up the rotor with number one on the cap. I noticed that the balancer was closer to 50 than it was to the 38 that the timing light reads with the engine running. I guess I need to get an adjustable rotor and a new cap.

FED 387 · 03-21-2013, 03:26 PM

sounds like the dist might be of a tooth ??? might hafta move it back or forth to get it lined up properly--also acheck fore wear on the dist gear see if its worn --FED387

Ron Gusack · 03-21-2013, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FED 387

sounds like the dist might be of a tooth ??? might hafta move it back or forth to get it lined up properly--also acheck fore wear on the dist gear see if its worn --FED387

The timing was at 38 then I put the rotor in line with number 1 on the cap then I noticed how far off the balancer was.

FED 387 · 03-21-2013, 07:14 PM

I'd then check the timing chain/gears-ya got the advance locked ???--with the engine running when you check the timing does the timing tend to retard ??? you hafta check it at above 3500 rpm so that all the slop and the torsional twist is outta the chain--- as the rpm goes up to say 6-7000 it is gonna retard so that is where yoou need to be checking it---static timing is gonna be close but not the same as a running engine

03-21-2013, 03:26 PM	#14
FED 387 VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 3,416 Likes: 521 Liked 330 Times in 178 Posts	Re: Hold down clamp sounds like the dist might be of a tooth ??? might hafta move it back or forth to get it lined up properly--also acheck fore wear on the dist gear see if its worn --FED387

03-21-2013, 07:14 PM	#16
FED 387 VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 3,416 Likes: 521 Liked 330 Times in 178 Posts	Re: Hold down clamp I'd then check the timing chain/gears-ya got the advance locked ???--with the engine running when you check the timing does the timing tend to retard ??? you hafta check it at above 3500 rpm so that all the slop and the torsional twist is outta the chain--- as the rpm goes up to say 6-7000 it is gonna retard so that is where yoou need to be checking it---static timing is gonna be close but not the same as a running engine