Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.

[Cglrcng]

Thanks 1700, that is my next stop of course I have probably 30 tabs open right now in the forum just am still reading everything out there I can.

OK, have you downloaded and installed the latest software version. and the latest Hardware Firmware Version? If so that is right up my alley and I can talk you through getting the 2 updated. So, PM me if you need help there for sure and put your phone number in the PM and I can call you and talk you through that.

Mainly I am looking for someone that can confirm a few things and mainly the ignition setup, and going with what I have available, or what they think is the best option.(I do not want to send the right voltage to the wrong place). And ummmm, let that magic smoke out.

[1700camaro]

Originally Posted by Cglrcng

OK, have you downloaded and installed the latest software version. and the latest Hardware Firmware Version? If so that is right up my alley and I can talk you through getting the 2 updated. So, PM me if you need help there for sure and put your phone number in the PM and I can call you and talk you through that.

Thanks Gary! I shouldn't need your assistance. I had the V2 software loaded & transferred my tune there. Then somehow discovered when bench testing the system. I needed V3 build 100 software & couldn't find it on Holley.com; I did find build 110 & that's what I have loaded now.

Now, it's telling me a need some other update & I think it's the data card. I'm not at a point to do the update with a bench test. Getting ready to install the system in the car.

Thanks again! I should be able to get this figured out.

Good luck with the Thanksgiving race(s)! I was planning to run that race(s) & the SCSN race the weekend before. The motor is out, installing the Terminator X system & doing other changes/updates. Plans change!

1700/781L

[Robin Lawrence]

Looks like you are covering all the bases. If you have specific questions I might be able to help.

I have decent amount of experience with the Holley systems.

Robin

[Cglrcng]

I know you do Robin, and were the exact expert I was looking for actually. May I bounce a few ideas off of you, then ask you about the best solutions please?

At this point everything appears ready to go if we can solve the Ignition, cam/crank synchs issues (my engine currently has neither of the last 2 sensors in stock form), but I will post the pics of what we think may be able to serve as both. (My engine is not a Turbo Edition, and has a single plate 3 wire hall effect distributor currently installed), but I also purchased a 2.2L/135 CI Turbo distributor that has a double 3 wire Hall Effect P.U. plate. and the upper P.U. is off the upper 4 blade rotor, while the lower is offset more than 90 degrees and has a single blade nearly 180 degrees but can be pretty easily machined/trimmed as necessary to achieve a leading or trailing edge in whatever size is necessary. (I need to resize the pic's before posting, but will do so immediately after eating dinner).

I really appreciate you responding & asking Robin I know your knowledge with the Holley EFI systems is extensive. There are a few other questions also, about the O2 and IAC.

I certainly have very specific questions Robin.

My IAC is attached to the rear of the upright Bosch throttle body, bolted to but fully integrated into the T.B. (so, I must use that IAC), but it has only 2 wires Brn/Wht and Tan. (so far I have only run 2 wires (J1B (Pin B1 IAC Lo, and Pin B2 IAC HI) within the harness for the IAC, though I can rectify that if necessary if I need to switch it to wiring it by the PWM method, by switching the J1B cavity spots I am using, though it looks like the PWM method also calls for 4 wires, so I not sure of anything except I must use my stock IAC on my stock Throttle Body and it only has 2 wires (I can certainly back probe the connector and get voltage readings from it though to provide).

My original stock narrow band 02 Sensor is a 1 wire Bosch sensor and I am replacing it with a 2.9 Bosch (going a lil' cheaper as I am using Term. X, leaded race gas, and will need to carry spares and change them often possibly, though I am not fouling the single wire I understand the heated WB02 sensors are more prone to failing using leaded gas). Ok, the wire colors on the sensor are different (White, Red, Black, Yellow, and Blue I think, there are truly only 5 wires and a 6 cavity plug on the sensor with 1 of the cavities blocked off, (I also purchased the matching other 6 cavity female plug), I show and have attached the actual 8 wire WBO2 (7 wire plus shield cable to the harness all the way back to the J1A proper pinout cavities), diagram shows 8 wires (I have seen an 8 wire to 6 wire conversion extension I think it was on Summit, but is there an easier simpler way to wire it in properly? 5 on the WB02 sensor, 6 at the plug, to 8 Holley Term. X pinouts?

I do have a complete set of the 1984 Dodge Daytona Dealer Service Manuals and the as built complete wiring diagrams for the car if necessary and can forward pics of any subsection if needed for reference. If it makes it any easier to research the necessary solutions.

Other than that, I have deleted the knock sensors (I have zero provision on the block...unless you think I can and should add 1 somehow a lot like I am attempting to add the MAT that did not exist near the throttle body intake. And the MAP is internal in the Term. X of course. So I deleted the wires from the harness or just did not fill the cavities in the J1A Connector.

Thank you for responding again and offering your help Robin. (I will post pics soon tonight). Speed is not the most important element at this point as the car is currently 100 miles away from me right this minute.

Accuracy of the right/best solutions to attempt is, as I can easily make a trip back up to Vegas and finish terminating and installing the Main J1A/J1B engine harness as I am now down to the Ignition (I am not positive I can use my Chrysler/Mopar style Electronic Ignition Module and Coil, or if I need to switch to an MSD or not?)

The WBO2 and IAC, and connecting everything else as all the rest is terminated properly and tested as far as conductivity, resistance, and wire colors, pinout maps, grounds, etc.

[Cglrcng]

[Cglrcng]

[Cglrcng]

The pics I posted so far, pic 1 (the Chrysler 5 pin Electronic Spark Control module and harness is from a 1983 Dodge Omni. (We took spark control away from the ECM/PM stock package and it currently is set at 46 degrees static all in all the time and runs happiest at that albeit very high setting. Have tried higher and lower.

It is harder starting, but never fails to fire up. I don't know if we can even use it w/ the Terminator X..more than willing to go to an MSD or Daytona CD1 based Ign. box if not but need best suggestion on what to buy if so.

The second pic is the Bosch upright throttle body w/ the 2 wire IAC on the rear of it (I have 2 of them, a brand new 1 is on the car now, and the stock 1 I have rebuilt and the following pics are the throttle body rear without the IAC attached showing the air passage ports top and bottom. I have 1 of the original Chrysler diagnostic tools which has a function setting wherein after plugging it into the ECM diagnostic connector at the passenger strut tower you can run through 5 cycles of each EFI function like IAC, injector firing, etc.

That 2 wire IAC when running the service diagnostic tool just cycles open /closed, so very simple.

Really just need wiring pinout there Hi/ Low?...the Holley wiring diagram calls for 4 wires. Or do we need to go PWM?

[Cglrcng]

The next set of pics is the 84 Turbo edition dual hall effect pick up distributor w/2- 3 wire connectors (the 1 distributor currently on the car has 1 -3 wire connector, and 1 hall effect P.U., Just the top of the plate that is fired by the 4 blades under/attached to the rotor underside), the Turbo distro has 1 under as seen and that large 1 inside the distro body can be machined or trimmed easily enough if needed, in addition to the top P.U. used by the rotor.

I only have 1 single injector and as Gump has pointed out to me in a PM, we may not even need a double synch as long as the Holley ECU sees absolute TDC for the crank signal since it is single point injection?

On that distro, the pickup wires on each of the 2- 3 wire connector(s) are red/green/black if the connector is cut off. The green wires are the centers w/ the white trace markings. The balance of the pics are the Chrysler chrome box 5 pin elect. control module and single Mallory coil.

I will get a new 5 pin connector if we can use the existing spark control module. If we switch to MSD or another CD type, then best unit to use I am up for recommendations before I buy it. I do want 2 step functions soon.

Next up I will find and resize and post the WBO2 pics am having issues on how to wire that up as there are 8 holley wires (7 plus the shield), then the Bosch 2.9 WBO2 has actual 5 wires to a 6 pin connector-1 is not a pin. And the wire colors do not match between the shielded cable and the sensor. The 8 pin Deutch connector I will next install on the cable I have the diagram pinout locations on it, it is from the main harness connector (8 cavity),
to the 6 cavity female connector or do I need /should I buy the 8 to 6 conversion extender I saw at Summit for the 2.9 Bosch WBO2...or scrap it all and need the Holley WBO2 to solve that connection issue?

All other connections to all sensors have been accomplished. (Inputs/outputs, CAN, future dash if needed), fuel pump, relay, the main power for the Terminator X, fuses at the battery and at the mounted Term. X, MAP is internal, TPS, additional 2 Manifold ground points added & connected to the loose black main ground. Injector, Fuel Pressure, Oil Pressure, MAT, Water Temp, (engine does not have knock sensors, so those cavities in J1A were left unpopulated, plugged), car does have a speed sensor on it, I have not run anything to that sensor), I did not see any provision for that in the MPFI