Crap, th350 emergency

[1320racer]

so what's the plan to be ready for Gainesville?

[JP1738]

Originally Posted by 1320racer

so what's the plan to be ready for Gainesville?

I don't really know yet. I've got a brand new transmission sitting in the floor of the shop ready to go in, but everyone on here seems to be really stressing the potential debris in the converter and I'm afraid to put it all back together without cutting my converter open and cleaning it. At this point I can't find any evidence that there is any debris in the converter after flushing and draining it over the course of this week. The fluid looked new the first time I drained it and has not revealed any additional debris since I started pouring fluid in it to flush it out. I also have not torn into my transmission to see what came apart or failed, so I don't know what the material is from or if it could have made it's way into the converter.

[Mark Ugrich]

Originally Posted by JP1738

I don't really know yet. I've got a brand new transmission sitting in the floor of the shop ready to go in, but everyone on here seems to be really stressing the potential debris in the converter and I'm afraid to put it all back together without cutting my converter open and cleaning it. At this point I can't find any evidence that there is any debris in the converter after flushing and draining it over the course of this week. The fluid looked new the first time I drained it and has not revealed any additional debris since I started pouring fluid in it to flush it out. I also have not torn into my transmission to see what came apart or failed, so I don't know what the material is from or if it could have made it's way into the converter.

It’s always difficult to determine what’s inside a converter after something fails.If there is absolutely no sign of metal or clutch material you may be ok.The correct thing to do is cut it apart and check.The fluid path in a 350 starts by going through the filter, into the pump and then to the converter.
Then to the valve body and the rest of the transmission.Maybe your trans guy can help advise if it’s worth taking a chance.

[Mark Yacavone]

Yes , when racers tell you you should have the converter cut open and cleaned and inspected , they are certainly correct.
However, you can take a chance,by not doing so, in your situation.
Most of the long term fine debris in a converter, ends up around the overlap, where the weld seam is, due to centrifugal force . That's probably not going anywhere.
It there's anything recent in there, it's possible to flush it up.

First thing you should do is set it on the bench and place a clear plastic tube all the way in and down to the pilot area. Siphon the remaining ATF out over the edge of the bench.
Then, if you have a parts cleaner, with fresh, clean solvent in it, place the tube all the way in and let it run for a while.
If you don't have that available, then pick up a gallon of mineral spirits and pour in as much as you can. Place a T350 input shaft in the unit and spin the turbine back and forth to stir up the fluid. Then quickly dump what you can into a clean pan. Finish by siphoning out the remainder of the solvent.
Then blow it out thoroughly , best you can .
If you haven't found a big chunks by now, you'll probably be okay, assuming the bearings and thrust washers aren't falling apart.

Disclaimer...You heard this from my ghost writer. Not from me.

[JP1738]

Originally Posted by Mark Yacavone

Yes , when racers tell you you should have the converter cut open and cleaned and inspected , they are certainly correct.
However, you can take a chance,by not doing so, in your situation.
Most of the long term fine debris in a converter, ends up around the overlap, where the weld seam is, due to centrifugal force . That's probably not going anywhere.
It there's anything recent in there, it's possible to flush it up.

First thing you should do is set it on the bench and place a clear plastic tube all the way in and down to the pilot area. Siphon the remaining ATF out over the edge of the bench.
Then, if you have a parts cleaner, with fresh, clean solvent in it, place the tube all the way in and let it run for a while.
If you don't have that available, then pick up a gallon of mineral spirits and pour in as much as you can. Place a T350 input shaft in the unit and spin the turbine back and forth to stir up the fluid. Then quickly dump what you can into a clean pan. Finish by siphoning out the remainder of the solvent.
Then blow it out thoroughly , best you can .
If you haven't found a big chunks by now, you'll probably be okay, assuming the bearings and thrust washers aren't falling apart.

Disclaimer...You heard this from my ghost writer. Not from me.

Thank you Mark Yacavone's ghost writer, I will do this tonight before reinstalling my transmission and converter.

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by JP1738

I don't really know yet. I've got a brand new transmission sitting in the floor of the shop ready to go in, but everyone on here seems to be really stressing the potential debris in the converter and I'm afraid to put it all back together without cutting my converter open and cleaning it. At this point I can't find any evidence that there is any debris in the converter after flushing and draining it over the course of this week. The fluid looked new the first time I drained it and has not revealed any additional debris since I started pouring fluid in it to flush it out. I also have not torn into my transmission to see what came apart or failed, so I don't know what the material is from or if it could have made it's way into the converter.

Dawson, based on your bolded comments above, I'd reinstall it and go race. Then change the fluid again after Gainesville. I've done the same numerous times over 3 decades without issue. I'm not a believer of cutting open converters to clean or "freshen". My converters only go back to the manufacturer if broken. Put a magnet in the pan if you already don't have one in there.

Who's converter are you running and what does it flash to and fall back to on the shift?

[JP1738]

Originally Posted by 1320racer

Dawson, based on your bolded comments above, I'd reinstall it and go race. Then change the fluid again after Gainesville. I've done the same numerous times over 3 decades without issue. I'm not a believer of cutting open converters to clean or "freshen". My converters only go back to the manufacturer if broken. Put a magnet in the pan if you already don't have one in there.

Who's converter are you running and what does it flash to and fall back to on the shift?

I had not considered running it and then changing the fluid, that's a fabulous idea and would help give me piece of mind. I don't know the converter brand, but I'll post a picture of what was stamped on the top and bottom of it so maybe someone will recognize it. The pan has a magnet, I'll make sure to clean it well and put it back when it goes back together. It's really hard to tell what the converter clashes to. The brakes aren't good enough to flash it in the pits, and first gear is so short I'm not sure what it goes to right off the line as the rpms climb so quickly. Looking back at in-car camera footage, it appears to flash around 4600 and fall to 5000-5100 on both gear changes. That was with the original intake that was on the car though, I don't have data on the new one yet, and it definitely made more power with it.

[Glenn Briglio]

Originally Posted by JP1738

I had not considered running it and then changing the fluid, that's a fabulous idea and would help give me piece of mind. I don't know the converter brand, but I'll post a picture of what was stamped on the top and bottom of it so maybe someone will recognize it. The pan has a magnet, I'll make sure to clean it well and put it back when it goes back together. It's really hard to tell what the converter clashes to. The brakes aren't good enough to flash it in the pits, and first gear is so short I'm not sure what it goes to right off the line as the rpms climb so quickly. Looking back at in-car camera footage, it appears to flash around 4600 and fall to 5000-5100 on both gear changes. That was with the original intake that was on the car though, I don't have data on the new one yet, and it definitely made more power with it.

Easy way to flash convertor. After a run on return road stop car and put in high. Floor throttle and watch tach for highest reading.

[dragracerray]

Originally Posted by Glenn Briglio

Easy way to flash convertor. After a run on return road stop car and put in high. Floor throttle and watch tach for highest reading.

I agree with Glenn. I think it is a little easier on the converter and trans if you mat the gas in high gear from a 10-15 MPH roll instead of stopped. Ray

[Eman]

At the least flush out or replace the cooler, that is where debris can be found. Buy a couple of neodymium magnets and put them in the pan in the future.