Advice on brake lines - Page 3

CMcAllister · 02-06-2023, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Lee

have one on its way

37 degree tooling is available by itself if you're going that route. More cost effective to get the whole kit - 3/16 to 1/2.

Dave Gantz · 02-06-2023, 03:36 PM

I've been using an old Imperial, similar to this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/18551982762...Cclp%3A2047675
I just learned something this past year.
I was having a hard time stopping a new double flare from leaking. After googling, I found out if you don't quite finish the second flare, when you tighten the flare nut, it will "finish" itself. I.E. the flare will finish forming as you tighten it against the seat. Presto! After making several flares, including making a new line when it got too short, using this technique, it sealed on the first try.
Maybe this is common info, but I thought I'd mention it.

cad · 02-07-2023, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FireSale

I was under the impression NiCor line was not allowed or at least frowned on because it has a low melting point and kinkes easier than steel. I have a coil of it on the wall and am redoing my lines too.

Rule book states that brake line must be DOT approved, which NiCopp is.

Faster classes require steel. I do highly recommend very good support for the rear brake lines. I have had a flare break in the flare nut at the caliper due to vibration.

vette5148 · 02-08-2023, 10:13 PM

I have a flaring kit I got from Inline Tube. It will double flare stainless brake line without annealing. I have done lots of show cars and some race cars with this. Most race cars I do 37 degree with tube nuts and sleeves. I love this tool!! Part # TLF08 and the 37 degree dies are seperate. Stainless lines and some Kugel Komponents line clamps are the bomb!!

Michael K · 02-19-2023, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vette5148

I have a flaring kit I got from Inline Tube. It will double flare stainless brake line without annealing. I have done lots of show cars and some race cars with this. Most race cars I do 37 degree with tube nuts and sleeves. I love this tool!! Part # TLF08 and the 37 degree dies are seperate. Stainless lines and some Kugel Komponents line clamps are the bomb!!

I have the same kit with 45 degree dies. I've only used it on steel lines, but it works great.

02-06-2023, 03:36 PM	#22
Dave Gantz Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Verrry South Jersey Posts: 537 Likes: 134 Liked 251 Times in 125 Posts	Re: Advice on brake lines I've been using an old Imperial, similar to this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/18551982762...Cclp%3A2047675 I just learned something this past year. I was having a hard time stopping a new double flare from leaking. After googling, I found out if you don't quite finish the second flare, when you tighten the flare nut, it will "finish" itself. I.E. the flare will finish forming as you tighten it against the seat. Presto! After making several flares, including making a new line when it got too short, using this technique, it sealed on the first try. Maybe this is common info, but I thought I'd mention it.

02-08-2023, 10:13 PM	#24
vette5148 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2022 Posts: 24 Likes: 60 Liked 39 Times in 12 Posts	Re: Advice on brake lines I have a flaring kit I got from Inline Tube. It will double flare stainless brake line without annealing. I have done lots of show cars and some race cars with this. Most race cars I do 37 degree with tube nuts and sleeves. I love this tool!! Part # TLF08 and the 37 degree dies are seperate. Stainless lines and some Kugel Komponents line clamps are the bomb!!