BBC starter problems

[Adger Smith]

The right cast iron nose has helped with problems on a few BBC's that have come through the shop. The flywheel run out rears it's head, esp when I have a warped one on the balance. Not a good thing for balance.. I've thrown away a few that had the ring welded on elliptical. Good luck hunting down the issue.

[Hacksaw]

Originally Posted by Tom Goldman

Do you have a aftermarket crankshaft ?
Some aftermarket cranks have a thicker crank flange which moves the flexplate closer to the starter drive which can prevent the starter drive from spinning out and engaging properly.
Most aftermarket starters come with a pair of shims which move the drive away from the flexplate.

Wouldn't a thicker flange on the crank move the flexplate farther away from the starter?

[Tom Goldman]

Originally Posted by Hacksaw

Wouldn't a thicker flange on the crank move the flexplate farther away from the starter?

Yes ,I just looked at that ,don't know why I typed closer ! brain fart I guess . but the distance issue is still a possibility .

[dragracerray]

I assume your starter bearings and starter drive are healthy. I remember a BBC block my brother and I had that did the same thing. We machined the mating surface of the starter. Not sure it solved the problem but it was much better. Don't remember how much we removed but if you go to far you can always shim back. Maybe try it with a nosepiece you don't care about (ie not a cast iron nosepiece). If you find this is the problem machine the block next time it is out so you can use any unmachined starter. Can you use a start retard device? Good luck, Ray

[outlaw]

I used to do a lot of pulling, rebuilding and installing engines and if the the starter sounded good when driving in to pull the engine I always sent that starter out to be rebuilt. Been through that starter nightmare to many times sometime it took longer to fix the starter than it did to pull and install the engine.
Terry

[Jeff Niceswanger]

I spent 30 years in a fleet garage (Ralston Purina) working on forklifts, power workers, semi trucks, bobcats,lawn equipment,aerial platforms, even locomotives. I can remember fighting this issue several times and finally figuring out how to cure it. These were not modified engines with aftermarket flywheels and such, but we did have similar issues. If you're sure the mechanics are correct, and your starter is fine, you might try this. We started putting a nice sized remote continuous duty solenoid and running 10 gauge wire to it, and then over to the starter solenoid, which in these engines were a part of the starter as they were GM engines. We used the original starter lead to trip the soleniod.It cured it every time. Must be some type of voltage issue, but on a meter everything showed normal. I always thought the solenoid must not have had enough force on it to hold it in tight and the working of the pinion in and out makes racket and severe vibration under load.. But all I know is it fixed it .It's a pretty cheap fix if it works. We ended up with every Clark Lift Truck in the place having one of thoses Hot Starts installed.

[Mike Taylor 3601]

Some good tips here,cover all the basics first.. ''l add....flexplate straight and round...,bolts are knurled,but are they tight in starter....,there are few different sizes.... that flywheel and drive may never be made quiet once it has been roughed up...

The best way I have found to fix noisy starter is install it without the solenoid,so you can engage the drive into the flywheel and check how the teeth meshing...use pliers or needle nose,to turn the drive and check backlash... worst one I ever fixed,I had to mill the nose about .075'' to get teeth deeper...
fit it to where teeth are meshed so they almost bottom out,but you still have a little backlash,can rock the gear just enough you see it has clearance
you will see a huge difference in how the gears work when properly meshed,takes way less effort to turn