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Old 12-05-2021, 04:42 PM   #1
Rob Petrie E395
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Default Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem

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Originally Posted by Jeff Niceswanger View Post
Is the IAC (Idle Air Control) in service? If so, I'd try eliminating that before moving forward.
Are you saying eliminate the IAC all together. And adjust the idle with the min idle set screw for the throttle blades? Or eliminate that as a possibility. I swapped the IAC valve for a known good one.
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Old 12-05-2021, 05:08 PM   #2
Jeff Niceswanger
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Default Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem

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Originally Posted by Rob Petrie E395 View Post
Are you saying eliminate the IAC all together. And adjust the idle with the min idle set screw for the throttle blades? Or eliminate that as a possibility. I swapped the IAC valve for a known good one.
I would just eliminate it. Click IAC type "none". Open the throttle setpoint a turn or two, redo a TPS auto reset, fire it and fiddle with the area around your idle area in the map.After you get it idling well you can turn your idle back down to your liking (in gear) and do a 2nd TPS auto reset. Also, depending on how much of the load the IAC was carrying you might develop a slight stumble in the off idle areas as you jab it. A little extra fuel in the acceleration map will cure that, but cross that bridge when you get to it. Make sure to rename it and save "as is". You can always put your old tune back in if you like the use of a IAC better. But I have seen stepper motors act like yours. It's probably one little area in your map where the modifiers and IAC blend together that causing you fits. Try this as its a pretty easy test..
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Old 12-06-2021, 03:32 PM   #3
Rob Petrie E395
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Default Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem

Ok I’ll try what you suggested. But I’m going to try a box first. Heck I don’t have a spare. It’s literally the only thing I don’t have a spare of. And it’ll only take a few min to change. Drag racing. Because I hate money and love work. LOL


Still wondering how much better the tech west boxes are. Trying to decide one of those. Or just another as produced by MSD.
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Old 12-06-2021, 05:17 PM   #4
Glenn Briglio
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Default Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem

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Originally Posted by Rob Petrie E395 View Post
Ok I’ll try what you suggested. But I’m going to try a box first. Heck I don’t have a spare. It’s literally the only thing I don’t have a spare of. And it’ll only take a few min to change. Drag racing. Because I hate money and love work. LOL


Still wondering how much better the tech west boxes are. Trying to decide one of those. Or just another as produced by MSD.
Use the search box on this website about techwest. Just saying beware.
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Old 12-06-2021, 07:53 PM   #5
Rob Petrie E395
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Default Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem

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Use the search box on this website about techwest. Just saying beware.
Sounds like he’s got better. And I understand having a family member that needs you. My stepson lives close enough to take it in person and check in if needed. I’m going to give it a try.
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Old 12-06-2021, 09:44 PM   #6
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Default Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem

Have you check the timing while the problem is happening ?
Timing mark is always rock solid for me . Is the ECU controlling
the timing advance? What ECU are you using for the FI?
Are you using a crank trigger or distributor trigger ?
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Old 12-06-2021, 10:31 PM   #7
Rob Petrie E395
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Default Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem

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Have you check the timing while the problem is happening ?
Timing mark is always rock solid for me . Is the ECU controlling
the timing advance? What ECU are you using for the FI?
Are you using a crank trigger or distributor trigger ?
Holley yes on crank trigger. No I’ve never checked timing while it’s doing it. It sounds terrible barely running, like a blubbering flooded engine or it’s firing but way way retarded. You know it instantly if it’s doing it. I always shut it off because it sounds so bad. Like I said before click ign switch off. Right back on restart and it’s fine. One time I did click it off and pull plugs to see if it was flooding. It plugs were fine. All I can think is something occasionally happens in the box. But resets clicking it off. I’m not sure it would stay running long enough to hop out and hook up a timing light. I’ve changed everything. I really skipped the box. Because it’s been tested. I had almost resigned that I’d just keep going until whatever it is quits all together. But like I wrote before I read all those tech west posts and saw what was up with msd. And started thinking maybe that’s where the problem is after all.
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