alternator

[Lew Silverman]

Originally Posted by Bob Mulry

Gee whiz,

All this time I thought that was illegal???..

Silly me...

Wowsers!!


What did you think was illegal? The rule book states that you HAVE to have an alternator so that's what we are checked for. That, and to make sure the belt isn't slipping. I've never had mine tested for output.

[Coleydog]

Why would you want to cut power a full throttle? 14 volts is better than 12 or less, to run all the electrical stuff when it's extremely needed. The value it picks up will more than offset any drag loss. Moreover, any alternator will not charge up the battery with the little running time the car sees. It stops the bat. run down you would see without one. 16 volt, that's another story.
Mike

[Hacksaw]

An alternator uses approx. 3 to 5 hp when energized and it's producing current.

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by Coleydog

Why would you want to cut power a full throttle? 14 volts is better than 12 or less, to run all the electrical stuff when it's extremely needed. The value it picks up will more than offset any drag loss. Moreover, any alternator will not charge up the battery with the little running time the car sees. It stops the bat. run down you would see without one. 16 volt, that's another story.
Mike

I tested that, my car picked up a couple hundredths cutting it off @ WOT. I would not bother doing that without testing it.

[Eman]

Why a one wire? You can cut power to the exciter circuit eliminating any load at WOT.

[Ed Wright]

Most race cars don't still have all that factory wiring, one wire alternators are more popular for race cars, engine swaps, etc.

[Coleydog]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

I tested that, my car picked up a couple hundredths cutting it off @ WOT. I would not bother doing that without testing it.

Interesting, did you remove the belt when testing? If not, I would say there's a tremendous amp draw at wot to lose that much ET. Meaning batteries are not up to charge or a big drain (fans, pump, computers).
Something doesn't sound right to me?
What rpm are you turning? Alternator could be tuning way to fast and that's the power loss, 3000 rpm is way more than needed.

[Chris1529]

Originally Posted by Coleydog

Interesting, did you remove the belt when testing? If not, I would say there's a tremendous amp draw at wot to lose that much ET. Meaning batteries are not up to charge or a big drain (fans, pump, computers).
Something doesn't sound right to me?
What rpm are you turning? Alternator could be tuning way to fast and that's the power loss, 3000 rpm is way more than needed.

Picked up a couple hundredths means Ed went faster by cutting it out at WOT.

[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by Coleydog

Why would you want to cut power a full throttle? 14 volts is better than 12 or less, to run all the electrical stuff when it's extremely needed. The value it picks up will more than offset any drag loss. Moreover, any alternator will not charge up the battery with the little running time the car sees. It stops the bat. run down you would see without one. 16 volt, that's another story.
Mike

Consistency

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by Coleydog

Interesting, did you remove the belt when testing? If not, I would say there's a tremendous amp draw at wot to lose that much ET. Meaning batteries are not up to charge or a big drain (fans, pump, computers).
Something doesn't sound right to me?
What rpm are you turning? Alternator could be tuning way to fast and that's the power loss, 3000 rpm is way more than needed.

It was my old '56 Chevy Jr Stocker. 265". Only belt also ran the water pump. Had points, Condenser, and a conventional coil. If MSD existed back then (1964/1967) I had not heard of them. Never spun it much past 6K, it was a solid lifter Corvette engine combo, but we had to use stock valve spring specs. Nothing like we use today.