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#1 |
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Can someone explain the reasoning behind the 4 cylinder spring working? Seems like it would have the opposite effect of the Moroso spring. Unless I’m thinking backwards if you compare the 3 springs of choice here the Moroso would be the stiffest, followed by the GT, then the 4 cylinder. If the idea is the the Moroso has more stored energy which helps the car transfer weight better why would the 4 cylinder then be a better choice than the GT spring? Wouldn’t it have the least amount of stored energy?
I’m not trying to be a hard *** or come across as not appreciative of the info and responses! I think i’ve given up on the Moroso spring entirely at this point, sounds like a lot of work and a waste of money from the experiences of everyone. Now I’m just asking questions for the education if you guys don’t mind. Thanks!! |
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#2 |
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I don't know what science is behind it, I just know the car reacted and 60 ft better with 4cyl Springs. We even cut 1 coil out of those. My super stocker 1.39 60 ft's with those.So we've stuck with them.
Bret Velde 2003 SS/LA |
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#3 | |
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You want the longest/lowest rate spring that you can get in the front of the car. Try not to cut the spring as this raises the spring rate. The longer spring pushes the front end up through more of the travel (storing more energy). This also helps when the car settles back down. It is less violent coming down and shocks the chassis less. |
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#4 |
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Brad, You're correct in that the 4 cyl. spring wouldn't have as much stored energy as the Moroso.
They do allow the front to sit lower , for more weight transfer. I had them in a street 5.0. and you could feel the front rise, even with a tight converter. You'd probably want at least a 3-way shock, set on 90/10 at first.
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#5 | |
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#6 |
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I made the mistake of cutting my first set of Moroso springs to get the ride hight I wanted. They settle to a lower ride hight from just sitting there, even more from a long ride, tied down in the trailer. I put them in in Jan. Hauled it to Pomona, front was too low when I unloaded at Pomona. Over all, it was tied down in the trailer about a week. Hadvto buy another pair of springs when I got home. Put them in, like they came out of the box. Before our first Div race came around, ride hight was fine. Aligned it & went racing. Best springs I had used at the time. Longer coils, wound from smaller wire, stores more energy.
Any from coils will settle after a while. Smaller wire coils settle more. Softer rear springs hook better than stiff springs. They all settle. I pick my car up on my 2 post lift to unload my springs between races to extend their life, and maintain chassis settings.
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA Last edited by Ed Wright; 02-01-2018 at 09:13 PM. |
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#7 | |
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#8 |
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In the rear, you want the lightest springs that will hold the car up. That will allow your shock to control the movement and actually 'do something' when you change the settings.
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#9 | |
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However, we're working in the confines of NHRA Stock Eliminator here.
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#10 |
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So would you both agree that a air bag in the rear spring is a crutch for a poor shock adjustment? Or a shock that doesn't have enough range? Or is it just a travel limiter?
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