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#1 |
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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If you pull all the weight off the front of the car and make everything light, for Stock or SS racing the front end will not compress the springs enough.
Otherwise the front end will be pointed at the stars, you have to cut the Moroso springs down to get the ride height correct. Maybe Mike will state if he cut the springs and how much, even cut they are still scary to install.
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Sean Marconette 84 Mustang 5060 SS/N |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Minneapolis
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I cut at least 1 coil off my front Moroso trick springs, they worked OK for me. I modified a spring compressor to install them, a real pain to get in.
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Jerry Heath I/S '93 Cobra FS/J 2010 Mustang "Ebay CJ" |
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#3 |
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I used a compressor like this, removed the hook by the bolt head, and put a round plate there, the other hook was hooked into the spring, then I ran the threaded shaft thru the hole in the control arm with the bolt on plate under the arm.
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Jerry Heath I/S '93 Cobra FS/J 2010 Mustang "Ebay CJ" |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Duluth, Mn.
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X2 !!
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: from Vancouver BC Canada, now in Nova Scotia
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]I had used the Moroso front & rear springs on my 85 Mustang Stocker. I only ran the rear springs 1 weekend, they seemed too light, at least for my stickshift car. What worked the best for me was a stock pair of coils from a 90 GT (green tag).
Up front, as others have said, a royal PITA to install. OTC sells the special spring compressor that Ford showed in the shop manual, but way to expensive to justify for only using once or twice. What I found that worked the best, was to remove both the inner control arm bolts , with a floor jack under the coil spring seat, and slowly release the tension until the springs can be removed by hand. Although Moroso says not to cut the springs, unless you are installing an iron headed 460 with A/C, they are waaaay too long. I first cut the front springs a full coil, and the front end still sat way too high. Removed another 1/2 coil, still a touch high, cut another 1/4 coil, then too low. Finally went with a new set of Moog 4 cyl, non A/C springs, worked fine. As for the rear airbags, I used them, as they corrected the twisted up launch these cars often have. Many guys just use a single bag in the RR, I installed both, for me, 5 psi in the LF, and 20-25 in the RR let the car leave nice and level. For rear shocks I used the Strange single adjustable units, double adjustables are nice, but quite a bit more $$$.[IMG]jpg 6(3)[/IMG]
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NHRA 6390 STK M/S 85 Mustang Last edited by Rory McNeil; 02-01-2018 at 02:26 AM. |
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#6 |
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Can someone explain the reasoning behind the 4 cylinder spring working? Seems like it would have the opposite effect of the Moroso spring. Unless I’m thinking backwards if you compare the 3 springs of choice here the Moroso would be the stiffest, followed by the GT, then the 4 cylinder. If the idea is the the Moroso has more stored energy which helps the car transfer weight better why would the 4 cylinder then be a better choice than the GT spring? Wouldn’t it have the least amount of stored energy?
I’m not trying to be a hard *** or come across as not appreciative of the info and responses! I think i’ve given up on the Moroso spring entirely at this point, sounds like a lot of work and a waste of money from the experiences of everyone. Now I’m just asking questions for the education if you guys don’t mind. Thanks!! |
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#7 |
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I don't know what science is behind it, I just know the car reacted and 60 ft better with 4cyl Springs. We even cut 1 coil out of those. My super stocker 1.39 60 ft's with those.So we've stuck with them.
Bret Velde 2003 SS/LA |
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#8 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2002
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You want the longest/lowest rate spring that you can get in the front of the car. Try not to cut the spring as this raises the spring rate. The longer spring pushes the front end up through more of the travel (storing more energy). This also helps when the car settles back down. It is less violent coming down and shocks the chassis less. |
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