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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Pottstown,Pa.
Posts: 121
Likes: 24
Liked 11 Times in 8 Posts
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I would make sure the hub of the converter doesn't bottom out in the back of the crankshaft also.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Southeast Michigan
Posts: 909
Likes: 70
Liked 239 Times in 114 Posts
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I agree, if the lugs don't bottom on the flexplate then the pilot is bottoming in the crank. That's a no no , you do not want to have the converter bolts pull back on the flexplate , so the gap needs to be filled with a shim . If the lugs hit the flexplate first, then you are OK .
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 214
Likes: 3
Liked 7 Times in 5 Posts
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we will look into this but it seemed like we had plenty of room for the snout to go in the crank. but we will double check i really don't want to take this apart again.
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 214
Likes: 3
Liked 7 Times in 5 Posts
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OK so the transmission is back on the engine with the pads machined and we have a 1/8th inch gap inbetween the converter and flex plate before bolting them together. and doing some measuring before we put the trans in the pads hit the flexplate about a 1/8th inch before the snout bottoms out in the crank. so hopefully this time we don't damage the stator shaft. we also found out that since we have to space the transmission back 1/4 inch the factory guides don't center it and that the converter snout wasn't slipping in the back of the crank locking everything up when pulled together even though the pads weren't even touching the flexplate. so through some careful manipulation and pulling the trans up slowly we got everything together snout in the crank and everything turning nice and free. so car and engine/trans will go together this weekend.
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